High-performance glue for cab building?

niner · 18th June 2003, 02:07 PM

http://www.titebond.com/DetermineTB....URformerTB.asp

Anyone has tried to use this kind of glue to build speaker cabinet? Is it overkill?

Jimmy154 · 18th June 2003, 03:04 PM

I use titebond, but not the polyurithane titebond on that page and it's good enough. Any wood glue is good enough, atleast for MDF. MDF always breaks right below the glue line because it doesn't hold together as well as a regular piece of wood. It splits and separates quite easily so a very strong wood glue would be useless, IMO.

JOE DIRT® · 18th June 2003, 03:18 PM

I have used many adhesives and deal with the manufactures direct...3M being one...they had many alternatives...as far as speakers go with MDF (real stuff)...weldbond glue has worked great for me and with MDF I resin coat the interior of the box to seal any porosity and silicone caulk the joints for added sealing

DIRT®

niner · 18th June 2003, 07:38 PM

The poly glue from that page suppose to set very fast, and the bond is very strong. I figure I can use it to just glue the panels without using screw. I have split MDF panel by putting screw in along the edge. At the same time, I don't want to wait 4-8 hours for the regular wood glue to dry.

EKG · 18th June 2003, 07:57 PM

The Titebond product you are looking at is a high performance hot melt glue. The biggest problem you are going to have with the stuff is joint creep while it is setting. Sixty seconds to set up is still a long time to hold a good sized panel motionless. if it slides, and soft glue is a very good lubricant, and then sets up your are pretty much out of luck. If your problem has been srcews splitting MDF edgeg get a good countersink drill and predrill all your screws. The other really useful thing to have is a set of corner clamps. If you glue and screw, two light duty ones are adequate. EKG

SisterOfMercy · 18th June 2003, 10:08 PM

It is very nice to work with glue that fills gaps, especially when you're not working with 90 degree corners. It's very easy to get the angles a bit incorrect, and the gap filling ability of the glue really helps there.

Pete Mazz · 19th June 2003, 12:03 AM

I have that glue system at the shop. It doesn't work well for cabinet construction because it's viscosity is too thick. By the time you grab a clamp, the glue will have begun to set and you can't apply enough pressure to get a nice tight joint. Forget about trying to hold it together by hand. For enclosures I use Titebond II wood glue. It only has to be clamped for about 1/2 an hour. If your cuts are not perfect, just caulk the inside seams with a flexible caulk like silicone.

Pete

18th June 2003, 02:07 PM	#1
niner diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA	High-performance glue for cab building? http://www.titebond.com/DetermineTB....URformerTB.asp Anyone has tried to use this kind of glue to build speaker cabinet? Is it overkill?

18th June 2003, 07:57 PM	#5
EKG diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North east	Glue The Titebond product you are looking at is a high performance hot melt glue. The biggest problem you are going to have with the stuff is joint creep while it is setting. Sixty seconds to set up is still a long time to hold a good sized panel motionless. if it slides, and soft glue is a very good lubricant, and then sets up your are pretty much out of luck. If your problem has been srcews splitting MDF edgeg get a good countersink drill and predrill all your screws. The other really useful thing to have is a set of corner clamps. If you glue and screw, two light duty ones are adequate. EKG __________________ EKG

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18th June 2003, 03:04 PM	#2
Jimmy154 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NH, USA	I use titebond, but not the polyurithane titebond on that page and it's good enough. Any wood glue is good enough, atleast for MDF. MDF always breaks right below the glue line because it doesn't hold together as well as a regular piece of wood. It splits and separates quite easily so a very strong wood glue would be useless, IMO.

18th June 2003, 03:18 PM	#3
JOE DIRT® diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Brantford, ON	I have used many adhesives and deal with the manufactures direct...3M being one...they had many alternatives...as far as speakers go with MDF (real stuff)...weldbond glue has worked great for me and with MDF I resin coat the interior of the box to seal any porosity and silicone caulk the joints for added sealing DIRT®

18th June 2003, 07:38 PM	#4
niner diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA	The poly glue from that page suppose to set very fast, and the bond is very strong. I figure I can use it to just glue the panels without using screw. I have split MDF panel by putting screw in along the edge. At the same time, I don't want to wait 4-8 hours for the regular wood glue to dry.

18th June 2003, 10:08 PM	#6
SisterOfMercy diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Schiedam	It is very nice to work with glue that fills gaps, especially when you're not working with 90 degree corners. It's very easy to get the angles a bit incorrect, and the gap filling ability of the glue really helps there.

19th June 2003, 12:03 AM	#7
Pete Mazz diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Bucks County, Pa	I have that glue system at the shop. It doesn't work well for cabinet construction because it's viscosity is too thick. By the time you grab a clamp, the glue will have begun to set and you can't apply enough pressure to get a nice tight joint. Forget about trying to hold it together by hand. For enclosures I use Titebond II wood glue. It only has to be clamped for about 1/2 an hour. If your cuts are not perfect, just caulk the inside seams with a flexible caulk like silicone. Pete