Swans M1 + Swans F12 Hi-end Woofer - diyAudio
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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 13th April 2010, 12:55 AM   #1
Kandis is offline Kandis  Germany
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Default Swans M1 + Swans F12 Hi-end Woofer

Hello This wil bee my first speakers to build. I wil buy the Swans M1 speaker kit (http://ehighend.de/shop/main_bigware...iyspeaker-kits) simply because their the ones, that i cold find most information obout and can buy in germany. And i got in the idea that i whant ribbon tweaaters, i liked how they sounded. Also i whant to build 2 aditional passive subwofers with Swans F12 Hi-end Woofer (http://ehighend.de/shop/main_bigware...oofer-f-series)

Soo i got a lot off questions and hoping to get some answers here. I got 2 months before i get to start bulding, because im for work in germany and and wil get back to Latvia, hopfuly with my speaker parts and some answers

So first, what wood you wold sudgest me to build the speakers of? Ok chhery wold probably bee too expensive for mee, but i defenetly whant the speakers and sub out off wood. So what wold bee the variations and charateristics?

Second, the m1 haas 2 terminals, and if i whant my sub i need to pair them. So if the driver is 8 ohms and tweater is 8 ohms i understand if i wold pair them paralel i wold get thoes 8 ohms stil?

Third, and the bigest problem is crosovers. I think if i got that great sub, i dont nead my m1 to play from 50 hz but higer. So what frequency wil bee most reasonable to make? And how hard wold modify that m1 crosover. And what god program you wold sudgest me for crosover planing for my sub?

Stil first to build is thoes speakers and i wil have more time to plan the sub, but i defenetly whan't to buy them in germany so i can take them with me home There wil bee more questions but lets start with thease.

Thanking you before
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Old 15th April 2010, 12:59 AM   #2
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your links are giving "Produkt wurde nicht gefunden!"
re: 'what wood ' - plywood
re:'if i whant my sub i need to pair them. So if the driver is 8 ohms and tweater is 8 ohms i understand if i wold pair them paralel i wold get thoes 8 ohms stil?'
not sure what you mean - are you going to have a separate amp for the subs (bi-amp)?
if not, you will need to design a new crossover for sub/ mid-woofer.
If there is a crossover between the drivers, they will maintain their nominal impedance.
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 15th April 2010, 08:06 AM   #3
Kandis is offline Kandis  Germany
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M1 speaker kit http://ehighend.de/shop/main_bigware...ame=baus%E4tze

Swans F12 Hi-end Woofer http://ehighend.de/shop/main_bigware...r%F6%DFer-17cm

It was probably because i was switchet to english and somehow there was an error.

So, the M1 is bi-wired.. In that point of wiew i was trying to understand if i switch that bi-wired loudspeker as one. So if the mid-woofer and tweter are 8 ohms i wold stil get thoes 8 or 16 ohms? It wold bee a lot easyer for me to yust design low pas or high pas filter for my sub. Correct me please, is it low pas or high pas, because english is not my main language and a lot off thease technical words are new to me. No i wold prefere t use one 4 chanal amplifer for both. And maybe redisign the firlter in the speaker, so it wil not play thoes low frequencys. Or it wold be beter to make 3 way filter for all of speakers.
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Old 16th April 2010, 02:25 AM   #4
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the English page for the M1 kit has the drivers mixed up in the schematic - be careful how you wire them.

re:'if the mid-woofer and tweter are 8 ohms i wold stil get thoes 8 or 16 ohms?' - if there's a crossover between the drivers, you'll still get 8 ohms.

re:' is it low pas or high pas' - it's low pass for the sub. Using a Low pass only for the sub will be simplest and result in what's called a 2.5 way system, a 2 way with an additional helping woofer. The Low pass filter need only be a single inductor in series with the woofer.

To go to the next step and make it a 3 way system, you would add a high pass filter to the M1s. This can be as simple as a single capacitor for each M1.

However, if you have a 4 channel amplifier, there is a better way to do it:
Passive Line-Level Crossover
put a 1st order PLLXO between your source and amp, and run the M1s off the HP channels and the F12s off the LP channels
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency
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Old 16th November 2010, 09:06 AM   #5
Kandis is offline Kandis  Germany
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Hi, i have a dillema. I bought my speaker kit, but unfortunatly they bin laying for half year, because i didnt have time to build cabinets, but now im thinking of ordering them insted of buing. but form my understanding its important to have the same exact volume as the original. My cauculations were that original box in the plan that i have posted is 0,263 ft³, correct me if im wrong. So i need a box from parts express that is 0.25ft³. But the question remains, because of this project - DanielBolduc.ca

Hee used the 0,38 ft³ box, soo what wold bee the best to doo. What wold be the advantages or disadvantages for using the 0,38 ft³ box?
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Old 16th November 2010, 06:33 PM   #6
blue934 is offline blue934  Canada
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i have a copy of the early version plans with (if memory serves correctly) ~.3cu.ft. and a simple crossover. the second version from the late 90's has a more complex crossover and .36cu.ft. box. the plans you linked to seem like an updated version of mine with .4 cu.ft. box. these measurements do not include bracing but i believe that is how PE measures their boxes so it is a fair comparison.
the PE .38 has the closest baffle width 8" instead of 8.25", the .25 box is 7.5"w.
i would recommend the .38 box and follow the plans for venting. the .25 will work if you tune the box accordingly with the vent, it just won't play as low as the larger box.

a side note, the crossover you linked to is similar but not identical to the second version i have.

david
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