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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Philadelphia
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I recently finished a pair of Cinderella towers. One of the cross-over networks required a 3.9 ufd. capacitor. I used a Jantzen 3.9uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor
Parts-Express.com:Jantzen 3.9uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor | poly polypropylene mylar crossover cap cap I have been an electronics hobbyist for 50 years and I am accustomed to handling components. However, on two separate occasions one of the leads of these caps broke off at the surface where it exits from the cylinder. I called the supplier and they cheerfully replaced these without any questions. My project was delayed a few days on two occasions. My question is concerning the quality of these caps. I realize that these are a bargain brand, but I didn't know that they were so fragile. I recently saw a cap with the same value at over $100. I thought this was ridiculous. Should I be using a better grade cap for my cross-overs. I used the Jantzens because this was the cap recommended. I also asked the supplier if there was a known defect and they said NO. P.S. I am very happy with the Cinderellas - fantastic sound for the money. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I've had leads break off plenty of times, but never off a Jantzen. Maybe they had a run of trouble? Auricaps are nice for their very sturdy leads.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: India
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I used three of them in different values ranging from 2.7uF to 12uf (@#%& 18dB/octave crossover!) and the leads were pretty durable.
Actually I used a parallel combination of Crosscaps and Z-cap Superiors, and the board was built for only one cap so the leads had to contort to impossible angles - none broke. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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i have only ever used:
no name PP caps from maplins( 650V PP types) and these were very sturdy, at least 1.5mm copper wire, with heatshrink along most of the length. polyester film, again HT caps....same size as 4.7uF 100Volt types but 1uF and 1.5kV rated, in the sprung leg PCB mount guise. these are big physically for the uF size but are equally as sturdy. I used these as i got about 50 1uF for less than £0.05/each from CPC in a must go sale. i simply epoxied them together to get my 5, and 6.8uF with another cap in the latter case. the only time ive had this happen is with an electrolytic cap, and to be honest, id never use them again, unless i need 200uF or so, since i got the mega cheap sale polyesters....even the PP ones were only a £ or so... i have to say after viewing the jantzen cap pics, that i would be hesitant to buy any of those, since the leads look measly, and weak. the price is good but unless they are seriously miles better than a 'standard' 400v/650v HTPP cap i wouldnt bother....a name is only for sales purposes after all...and maybe even sprayed on aftermarket.... expensive(ish) at £4+ PP HT cap: http://cpc.farnell.com/ampohm-wound-...vdc/dp/CA05705 or the 'cheaper-but-not-really-any-worse-at-all' alternative: http://cpc.farnell.com/vishay-bc-com...3uf/dp/CA05393
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Im the guy that speaks in haste, and makes ill conceived theories, thinks math is a necessary evil, but i know something.Sometimes it bugs me, then i then i realise that theres 10 more just the same.So i guess Mulder was right. We are not alone. Last edited by mondogenerator; 4th April 2010 at 08:35 PM. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Central New Jersey
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All it takes is a small nick in the lead on any wire especially that thin.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Philadelphia
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Thank you for the help!
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