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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Currently my self-designed speakers are a 3-way 2-box design with a separate box for the bass, and another one for the mid and tweeter. I've been informed that the speakers are too large (I'll let you guess by whom!) so I am thinking about redesigning the bass box with a smaller one.
Currently the bass driver is a 10" Audax PR240M0 in a sealed unit (quite big and heavy!). The mid-range and tweeter in the separate box are both Audax units: HM100Z0 (4" mid-range), TW025A0 (tweeter). I'm thinking I might need to drop down to a 6" bass unit, and probably go for a ported box. I know I'm going to sacrifice bottom-end, but still would like decent bass. I don't mind sacrificing a bit of sensitivity, and tweaking my cross-overs to do this. I think I need to get the enclosure as narrow as possible, but can be more flexible in terms of height. Any there any suggestion for good small bass drive units that might do the job? I'd like to keep the cost of them to under £75 each if possible.I get the impression Audax don't exist anymore, is this true? Cheers. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I would suggest 8" woofer, if you still consider it a 3way
F8 - HiVi research 8" bass-midrange - EUROPE AUDIO SB23NRXS45-8 - SB acoustics 8" woofer - EUROPE AUDIO |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lyon
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Ok a 6" alu cone ?
L18RCYP 19L@40Hz Good bass extension in low volume. But I am agree a 8" should be less frustrating L22RNX4P 31L@29Hz CD22RNX4P 25L@31Hz etc. Quote:
Drivers sold here here Hope this helps. |
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#4 |
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Banned
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Do you really need 2 boxes for the bass? You don't say what your drive arrangements are. Get rid of one of the bass boxes and use another amp to drive the remaining one. Split the signal before the amp. If you're already bi-amping you can get rid if the mid-tweet xover and shuffle the amps up. Obviously you'll need to fiddle a bit more with the signal processing...
w Use the redundant box to build a second system for the bedroom. Last edited by wakibaki; 15th March 2010 at 12:47 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Thanks for the suggestions for the drivers, I'll fiddle around with some box equations to see what's needed for enclosures.
While I'd prefer to use an 8", I really think I'm going to be stuck with 6". My mid/high enclosures are actually open-baffle, and only go down to 350Hz or so (can't remember exactly). So I'm not keen on having a mono bass unit that goes to such a high frequency. Also I'm can't really put anything in the middle. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
Are you aware that box size might be the same Anyway, this SB 6" looks good SB17NRXC35-4 - SB acoustics 6" midwoofer - EUROPE AUDIO |
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#7 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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If you have to go from 10" to 6.5" then the only two I think you might be happy with are the CSS:
Creative Sound - Product Details or the TB: Parts-Express.com:Tang Band W6-1139SI 6-1/2" Subwoofer | subwoofer 6" subwoofer neodynium subwoofer tangband tb speakers tangband-22008 Both these are big woofers trapped in small bodies. Both need separate amps. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Agree with the above driver suggestions, and I'd recommend running a minimum of 2x 6.5s per enclosure.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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multiple 6.5" drivers will get you the same surface area as a 10" driver, and allow a thinner cab with appearance of being smaller; I guess the first step is to negotiate just how big you can go with her indoors...
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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