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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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I saw these on ebay night before last with a BIN price of $35. I couldn't let a good pair of horns go by at that price, so snaffled 'em up quick sticks. (I OK'd this with the wife by promising to take our daughter out of the house for a couple of hours yesterday to go and pick them up.) So not only did these turn up at the right price, they came with instant WAF!
Anyway, I need some help working out what these babies will do. Guy I got them from said he got them from some other guy who built these from some specs published in a DIY article of some sort. So if anybody can recognise this project from anywhere online, please point me to it. Otherwise, specs are as follows; horn throat area = 10.5 square inches. (3" x 3.5") horn mouth area = 206.5 square inches (14.75" x 14") horn length = 12" back chamber = 210.5 cubic inches (8.25" x 8.5" x 3") without a driver. As you can probably tell from the measurements they're quite small cabinets. It looks as though they were designed to house an 8" driver? Can anyone suggest what these might perform best with? ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Perhaps made for something like the Galaxy Five inch driver; midrange only.
Usually there is a gap introduced with respect to the driver mounted at the throat. Sometimes this gap has a dacron like material inserted to act as a sealant. You might wish to contact JLH over at the looney bin. Feel free to e-mail me, as that's all I can post here. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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[QUOTE=Scott L;2093097]Perhaps made for something like the Galaxy Five inch driver; midrange only. [QUOTE]
Hi lowpoke, Scott, Do you have a complete set of the Galaxy T/S parameters? FYI, A quick simulation: b |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Also, please note the cone should be treated with damping material. I used 5 coats of DAMAR. DAMAR is a spray used by artists to keep paintings from yellowing.
The S5C160-8 full range transducer delivers maximum sound levels and unsurpassed durability under the most stringent operating conditions. It features a proprietary non-ferrous frame, 40 oz. magnet structure with vented pole piece, underhung voice coil, and linear spider. The 1"Kapton voice coil is ferrofluid cooled to reduce distortion and power compression. Optimized for sealed box enclosures. Made in the U.S.A. * Power handling: 100 watts RMS/140 watts max * Voice coil diameter: 1" * Impedance: 8 ohms * Frequency response: 200-18,000 Hz * Magnet weight: 40 oz. * Fs: 140 Hz * SPL: 92 dB 1W/1m * Vas: .24 cu. ft. * Qms: 1.34 * Qes: .38 * Qts: .30 * Net weight: 3 lbs. * Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 4-3/4", Cutout Diameter: must be rear or flush mounted, Mounting Depth: 2-3/8", Magnet Diameter: 4", Magnet Height: 1-1/8". |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Nice find!
When you take the back off the chamber, can you see the bolt circle from the driver that was there? The diameter of the bolt circle/screw holes ought to tell you what size driver was in there. That's a start.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks for your input so far guys. I'll check out the 5" Galaxy. The bolt holes that are there look a little unusual in that it appears a driver was secured in the corners only, but size looks about right for a 5" driver, maybe even smaller.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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I would skip on the Galaxy driver. There are better woofers available now. Take a look at the Faital Pro M5N12-80. It should be good from ~ 250Hz to 1200Hz in that horn. Adjust the back chamber resonance by using expanding foam. You might have to use some poly quilt batting with 1/8" standoffs to create a small throat gap to rid the horn from honk.
Rgs, JLH
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Ah, how beautifully the orchestra sounds before a rain! In a dry sunny day there is no way for the instruments to sound this way! Last edited by JLH; 21st February 2010 at 07:58 PM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
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You could also take a look at the P.Audio WN-520N driver. The specs are excellent, at it sounds really good in a front horn! The specs are to be found here:
http://www.paudio.ru/downloads/WN-520N.pdf Best regards Peter |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks for your recommendations JLH and Peter! Both those drivers look like good choices. Now that I look at the bolt holes on these little woofers, it's obvious that's what has been in these cabinets before.
I had it in my head for some reason that all drivers naturally had 6 or 8 mounting holes around the perimeter. A hole in each corner looked weird to me.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi again,
I too believe the PRO drivers are better choices if you adjust the rear-closed volumes accordingly to their different T/S parameters. FYI: follows is a picture that doesn’t show correctly rear loading as the drivers are just compared in the first given enclosure I posted before here above. b. |
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