Hi,
I'm thinking of using a board material called High Pressure Laminate (HPL), used for countertops in kitchens etc.
This is MDF board of 28 mm thickness with a durable toplayer of some sort (formica like)
Advantages to me are:
- Nice thickness (anything above 22 mm MDF is seldom in stock)
- One side is rounded off nicely already (for use at front of cabinet)
- No need to paint, lacquer, veneer etc.
I want to try to put the panels together using 45 Deg. cuts at the sides of the panels.
Anybody tried this before? What (sonic) results?
Henry.
I'm thinking of using a board material called High Pressure Laminate (HPL), used for countertops in kitchens etc.
This is MDF board of 28 mm thickness with a durable toplayer of some sort (formica like)
Advantages to me are:
- Nice thickness (anything above 22 mm MDF is seldom in stock)
- One side is rounded off nicely already (for use at front of cabinet)
- No need to paint, lacquer, veneer etc.
I want to try to put the panels together using 45 Deg. cuts at the sides of the panels.
Anybody tried this before? What (sonic) results?
Henry.
I guess nobody's tried it. But what you're describing is very low risk...I can't imagine laminate on the OUTSIDE affecting the sound much....so it's like making an MDF cabinet.
Just make sure it IS MDF, and not particleboard. Although some people often make the mistake of calling particleboard MDF, it is much lower quality, and really doessn't even look the same.
Just make sure it IS MDF, and not particleboard. Although some people often make the mistake of calling particleboard MDF, it is much lower quality, and really doessn't even look the same.
A way to avoid miters on the ends would be to glue a strip of wood across the end of the top board. This strip should be the same hight and width as the thickness of your boards. Biscuits would be advisable. After assembly round over the edge with your router being careful not to cut into the biscuits. You could do the sides of the boards the same way. Cut a shallow V before gluing can create a nice effect while helping to hide any misalinements.
Thank you guys, for all the good advice.
I had a closer look at it today, and I think Pete (Mazz) is right, it is not "solid" MDF, but the sides and bends are only MDF and the core is particleboard.
How does this affect things?
Can anybody explain to me (more) the meaning(-s?) of the English word "miter" in this context (being a non native englisch speaking person)
A common dictionairy fails in this case....
And "glue blocs"?
Henry.
I had a closer look at it today, and I think Pete (Mazz) is right, it is not "solid" MDF, but the sides and bends are only MDF and the core is particleboard.
How does this affect things?
Can anybody explain to me (more) the meaning(-s?) of the English word "miter" in this context (being a non native englisch speaking person)
A common dictionairy fails in this case....
And "glue blocs"?
Henry.
A "miter" is a 45 degree angle cut on the end of each board to be joined, such that when put together, they form a right angle.
Here's an attempt at a pictorial:
......|.....|
-----+....|
........\...|
.........\..|
..........\.|
---------+
The slashes represent the cut on each board. (Ignore the '.' in the drawing, they're there to keep the apacing close to correct)
The only advantage to this joint is that it creates only a very small line at the corner for the joint. The downsides are quite lengthy, including difficult to get completely correct, and may not be as strong as numerous other, easier and better joints.
Glue blocks are even easier to define. They're simply a small piece of wood placed on the inside corner of the joint . They're purpose is two fold, one they help with aligning the two boards. And two, they give a lot more glue surface in addition to the joint's glue surface.
Does this help clarify things?
Here's an attempt at a pictorial:
......|.....|
-----+....|
........\...|
.........\..|
..........\.|
---------+
The slashes represent the cut on each board. (Ignore the '.' in the drawing, they're there to keep the apacing close to correct)
The only advantage to this joint is that it creates only a very small line at the corner for the joint. The downsides are quite lengthy, including difficult to get completely correct, and may not be as strong as numerous other, easier and better joints.
Glue blocks are even easier to define. They're simply a small piece of wood placed on the inside corner of the joint . They're purpose is two fold, one they help with aligning the two boards. And two, they give a lot more glue surface in addition to the joint's glue surface.
Does this help clarify things?
Miters, glue blocks, box construction
Thank you Schaef!
It is a lot clearer now that I know the word "miter" is a 45 degree angle cut board. I think I got confused by the short "miter" used for "miter-gauge"
Glue blocks was more or less clear to me, just wanted to be sure.......
I know there are some disadvantages in using this method of cabinet making.
Wat I want to do is:
- Maybe find a GOOD professional to do the woodcutting ( someone in the kitchen woodworking buisness)
Have it cut at slightly smaller angles of 45 degrees (44,5 - 44,8 degrees or so) to ensure the outside edges of the 45 degrees cut sides to fit tightly.
- Use 3 X 3 cm or so woodstrips inside the cabinet in the corners (the glue blocks) to get a better fit and stability
- Screw and glue the strips, sides and backpanel (from the inside) and use some "sealing" glue for better airtightness
- The front will be screwed only (from the outside) to retain acces to the inside.
To keep it airtight, use some sealing material strip as used for doors, windows etc. to prevent drafts. (don't know the correct English word, hope you know what I mean)
Would this be enough to keep it airtight?
Henry.
Thank you Schaef!
It is a lot clearer now that I know the word "miter" is a 45 degree angle cut board. I think I got confused by the short "miter" used for "miter-gauge"
Glue blocks was more or less clear to me, just wanted to be sure.......
I know there are some disadvantages in using this method of cabinet making.
Wat I want to do is:
- Maybe find a GOOD professional to do the woodcutting ( someone in the kitchen woodworking buisness)
Have it cut at slightly smaller angles of 45 degrees (44,5 - 44,8 degrees or so) to ensure the outside edges of the 45 degrees cut sides to fit tightly.
- Use 3 X 3 cm or so woodstrips inside the cabinet in the corners (the glue blocks) to get a better fit and stability
- Screw and glue the strips, sides and backpanel (from the inside) and use some "sealing" glue for better airtightness
- The front will be screwed only (from the outside) to retain acces to the inside.
To keep it airtight, use some sealing material strip as used for doors, windows etc. to prevent drafts. (don't know the correct English word, hope you know what I mean)
Would this be enough to keep it airtight?
Henry.
If you're going to have a professional cut it, then you should end up with a good cut. Although, just to clarify, what you're talking about with cutting a smaller angle, meaning you'll end up with a corner that leans to the inside of the box. Make sure you're clear on that with the cutter, otherwise you could end up with panels that lean out slightly which would be bad.
The biggest problem with cutting the 45 degree angle is making sure the blade really is set at the correct angle and keeping the piece to be cut flat on the saw surface. Hence why its a difficult joint to work with, as the slightest error is visible.
I like the construction method and should provide a very airtight box. As a suggestion, use caulking on all of the inside corners/joints and that should seal things up nicely. (You know the stuff that comes in tubes used to seal around windows and bathtubs) Also, if the back side of the material is not coated, using standard wood glue will work very nicely for you. No need to go to exotics for this, using standard wood glue and some caulking will be more than sufficient. (Along with the glue blocks of course)
As for the rubber material, I believe what you're talking about is what we call "weather stripping." Plain and simple, and should work well.
The biggest problem with cutting the 45 degree angle is making sure the blade really is set at the correct angle and keeping the piece to be cut flat on the saw surface. Hence why its a difficult joint to work with, as the slightest error is visible.
I like the construction method and should provide a very airtight box. As a suggestion, use caulking on all of the inside corners/joints and that should seal things up nicely. (You know the stuff that comes in tubes used to seal around windows and bathtubs) Also, if the back side of the material is not coated, using standard wood glue will work very nicely for you. No need to go to exotics for this, using standard wood glue and some caulking will be more than sufficient. (Along with the glue blocks of course)
As for the rubber material, I believe what you're talking about is what we call "weather stripping." Plain and simple, and should work well.
I assume you are trying to get the best possible outside surface finish you can & the use of mitre joints will achieve this if they are perfect joints?
If you know anyone with a router & table look at purchasing a 'lock mitre' cutter & creating the joints with this.
This will mean you only have to cut accross the boards dead square & then use the cutter for the mitre.
Not only will you get an accurate joint which is essential to achieve your goal but it gives double the surface area to the joint for gluing & this joint is near airtight when dry assembled.
Also why not make the back the removable panel, that way you can avoid screws showing at front.
In the UK a company called 'Trend' make the cutter. I think its www.trend.co.uk
From past experience a straight mitre cut along board ends is very difficult to achieve well. (I have a very accurate proffessional universal woodworking machine) but still use the router whenever possible for this type of thing.
Hope this helps.
If you know anyone with a router & table look at purchasing a 'lock mitre' cutter & creating the joints with this.
This will mean you only have to cut accross the boards dead square & then use the cutter for the mitre.
Not only will you get an accurate joint which is essential to achieve your goal but it gives double the surface area to the joint for gluing & this joint is near airtight when dry assembled.
Also why not make the back the removable panel, that way you can avoid screws showing at front.
In the UK a company called 'Trend' make the cutter. I think its www.trend.co.uk
From past experience a straight mitre cut along board ends is very difficult to achieve well. (I have a very accurate proffessional universal woodworking machine) but still use the router whenever possible for this type of thing.
Hope this helps.
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