Monitor Golds

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Decided to get my Tannoys from the loft and they are 12" Monitor golds (no cabs just the chasis), with crossover and terminals. I now realise these are desirable speakers and fetching silly money. Having hooked them up i'm quite surprised how good they are.
I was wondering if anyone has knowledge for cab specs that dont use monsters. I would prefer the front to be as slim (wife friendly) as possible and give more height if possible. Thanks.
 
To get reasonable bass out of low Q driver like these, a big cab is virtually mandatory, in the order of 150L IIRC, so I suppose the challenge is to get the max volume from the limits of hxwxd and low frequency extension you can live with. My bass cabs are based on the Tannoy 'York' design (using Peerless drivers), but I wanted to keep them under 70L, the angled back front makes them look a bit smaller, but I kept the sides square & deep to get the volume I needed. You probably have more flexibility about height, mine was constrained by the need to get my mid/tweeter boxes at the correct listening height (~85cm).

more info on Tannoys here: Tannoy Speakers
 
Hi,

They do fetch silly money and the implication is they should be put in good cabinets.

I'm not sure what PeteMcK is trying to say, low Q drivers need small cabinets
relative to their Vas, higher Q for a Vas nearly always means bigger cabinets.

The fact is changing the typical wide, not deep, up against the wall, layout
of typical Tannoys to deeper and narrower will upset lower midrange balance.

FWIW these drivers are designed to use big cabinets, if big is not your bag
then you'd be better off selling them than forcing them into smaller cabinets.
You will only add to their value by putting them in Tannoy spec cabinets.

Do some research and make your mind up, FWIW they are enthusiasts drivers,
designed more for studios than domestic environments, IMO for those that
like it a lot louder than others, if your not a volume freak then the physics
of high sensitivity and decent bass = big cabinets, is IMO not for you.
(Its also true high sensitivity and decent bass appeals to the low power
valve brigade who are not volume freaks, but nevertheless = big cabinets)

/sreten.
 
If they were mine, and I've owned a few Tannoys, I'd biamp with a dedicated LF driver under them. Model the Golds for a sealed box, then look for a 12'+ driver in a separate sealed sub enclosure under them. Sort of like a DMT12.

Based upon Don M's T/S a sub 20L for the G12 gives an F3 around 150Hz, and takes all the strain off it for reproducing LF, cleaning up the mids. Plenty of drivers will give you the LF section in a modest sealed or ported section.
 
If they were mine, and I've owned a few Tannoys, I'd biamp with a dedicated LF driver under them. Model the Golds for a sealed box, then look for a 12'+ driver in a separate sealed sub enclosure under them. Sort of like a DMT12.

Based upon Don M's T/S a sub 20L for the G12 gives an F3 around 150Hz, and takes all the strain off it for reproducing LF, cleaning up the mids. Plenty of drivers will give you the LF section in a modest sealed or ported section.

Yes that is certainly an option to consider.

On the other hand build the 75 liter cabinets and add in multiple separate subs. Take a look at the AudioKinesis "Swarm" sub system. If you have a room that is not the best suited to bass this option could be a workable solution. Finally the ports on the Tannoy cabinets can be left open or closed.

Don
 
On the other hand build the 75 liter cabinets and add in multiple separate subs.
I'd do my cab and the multiple subs, but they are often a hard ask domestically "You're not having all those boxes in my living room" type of rubbish.
Take a look at the AudioKinesis "Swarm" sub system. If you have a room that is not the best suited to bass this option could be a workable solution.
I'm doing full range mains and subs, so I agree.
Finally the ports on the Tannoy cabinets can be left open or closed.

Don
But then with a 75L net cab you get a Q of .35 and an F3 of 180.

Do you insist on having just two cabinets and no other drivers, or would 5 compact cabs (the two Golds and three small subwoofers) also work?
The G12 would need to be in the ported cab (or my biamped) to get the LF response down low enough so the bass isn't localisable.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Having done some research i think i will go with the enclosures i built many years ago. They are original plans from Tannoy and the internal dimensions are 760mm high, 400mm wide,and 260mm deep. I will increase the thickness of the sides to 18mm min. and the front baffle to at least 22mm thick, as they are for 15mm thick material. I think these enclosures are the sealed Chatworth rectangular design(please correct me if wrong as its hard to find dimensions for the 12"cabs.) Also what is the calculation to get the internal litres for these dimensions. Sorry if this is basic stuff but i dont do this diy building too often.

Could i also incorporate a GRF design into this enclosure or even a port.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Having done some research i think i will go with the enclosures i built many years ago. They are original plans from Tannoy and the internal dimensions are 760mm high, 400mm wide,and 260mm deep. I will increase the thickness of the sides to 18mm min. and the front baffle to at least 22mm thick, as they are for 15mm thick material. I think these enclosures are the sealed Chatworth rectangular design(please correct me if wrong as its hard to find dimensions for the 12"cabs.) Also what is the calculation to get the internal litres for these dimensions. Sorry if this is basic stuff but i dont do this diy building too often.

Could i also incorporate a GRF design into this enclosure or even a port.

76x40x26 = 79 litres. But that's an external dimension volume.
 
Hi Holty,
Tall and slim? Well, I put my 10 inch Tannoys in a cabinet inspired by the Tannoy "Kensington", Planet10's Mini Onken & by the Onken Calculator!
The result: a 110 cm x 35 cm x 38 cm (H-W-D) cabinet with distributed/Onken ports. This volume could work well with your 12 inchers too.

The speakers are smooth and very responsive. Sound great (not just my opinion)! Using a test CD, others with better ears, hear tones at 23 hz and I pick up 25 hz.

As an example, the Massive Attack & Nusrat Ali Khan remix "Must Must" is stunning on these 10 inchers! Controled bass and plenty of it, reaching way down! Guess I got lucky!

Best of luck with your construction,
Alistair
 
Thanks 5th element and barackuda as simple as that.
That design algoart looks just what i've been looking for. Looked on the Planet 10 site and is it the one with the beveled front edges. The dimensions dont look the same as yours. Could you provide a link to the page please. Thanks.
 
Hi Holty,
I designed them myself, based on the ideas I've mentioned (so no web page).
I can fix up a drawing for you (with dimensions) over the weekend.

Using the Onken Calculator, you can calculate the best vent size for your cabinet/speaker combination.

I used 18mm ply, pre-cut by my local DIY store (B&Q) in a very solid & simple glue & screw construction. I can also put up a couple of pics if you want, although they are still waiting for veneer and wood finishing.

Let me know if any of the above helps. I'm based near Canterbury if you want to listen.

Alistair
 
Hi Holty,
I designed them myself, based on the ideas I've mentioned (so no web page).
I can fix up a drawing for you (with dimensions) over the weekend.

Using the Onken Calculator, you can calculate the best vent size for your cabinet/speaker combination.

I used 18mm ply, pre-cut by my local DIY store (B&Q) in a very solid & simple glue & screw construction. I can also put up a couple of pics if you want, although they are still waiting for veneer and wood finishing.

Let me know if any of the above helps. I'm based near Canterbury if you want to listen.

Alistair[/QUOTE

Yes please Alistair all of that would be helpful. Do B&Q charge for the cutting?
I'm up in Nottingham so a bit too far but thanks for the invite.

Jim
 
Tannoy project

Not having heard Tannoy speakers, I am curious what makes them so desirable? Is it only certain models? I ran across a large pair in a electronics repair shop last year that seemed inexpensively priced. But, not knowing anything about them, I did not know if it was a bargain.

Are the cones and surrounds replaceable on these older Tannoy's?

Good luck with your project...it sounds very interesting.
 
Hi Homebuilder,
I came to Tannoys via fullrange.
The sound of their Dual Concentric drivers are, for me, integrated and smooth. The way that voice is presented is classy!
Check out what Troels says:
15"
and also:
Tannoy III LZ,

edit: Yes, the cones/surrounds can be replaced :)

The best info on Tannoy models and driver types is here:
TANNOY Monitor Gold dual concentric speakers

There is a lot of activity on british eBay, and it may help you gauge fair/current pricing: tannoy, Floor Standing Speakers, Bookshelf Wall Mount Speakers, Surround Home Cinema Speakers items at low prices on eBay.co.uk

You will quickly see that the DC's are way more expensive than other Tannoys, and that there are vast price differences inside the DC ranges.
Some are extremely rare, check this out (and still 8 days bidding left)!:
2 Superb Tannoy Monitor Silver 12? 'speakers & Xovers on eBay (end time 21-Feb-10 20:57:28 GMT)
 
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Thanks for the pics Alistair i am sure they will look good as well as sound good.
Downloaded the calculator in Excel but couldn't type the values in, the same in pdf.

Those Silvers are fetching silly money dont know whether they are better than the Golds though, perhaps because they are older.

The Gold's starting at £550 eh. To think i only paid £35 for mine in the early seventies.

Hi homebuilder. Well now you have seen those on Ebay keep an eye open over there you could make some money. The Tannoy duals have a very good midrange and with the treble controls you can get it suitable for all the trickiest of rooms. The bass in my origanal cabs were a bit muffled and boomy but now i Know a few things about room interaction i think i can overcome it. Suspended wooden floors need some work on them to get rid of the boom.
 
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