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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Decided to get my Tannoys from the loft and they are 12" Monitor golds (no cabs just the chasis), with crossover and terminals. I now realise these are desirable speakers and fetching silly money. Having hooked them up i'm quite surprised how good they are.
I was wondering if anyone has knowledge for cab specs that dont use monsters. I would prefer the front to be as slim (wife friendly) as possible and give more height if possible. Thanks. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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To get reasonable bass out of low Q driver like these, a big cab is virtually mandatory, in the order of 150L IIRC, so I suppose the challenge is to get the max volume from the limits of hxwxd and low frequency extension you can live with. My bass cabs are based on the Tannoy 'York' design (using Peerless drivers), but I wanted to keep them under 70L, the angled back front makes them look a bit smaller, but I kept the sides square & deep to get the volume I needed. You probably have more flexibility about height, mine was constrained by the need to get my mid/tweeter boxes at the correct listening height (~85cm).
more info on Tannoys here: Tannoy Speakers
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
They do fetch silly money and the implication is they should be put in good cabinets. I'm not sure what PeteMcK is trying to say, low Q drivers need small cabinets relative to their Vas, higher Q for a Vas nearly always means bigger cabinets. The fact is changing the typical wide, not deep, up against the wall, layout of typical Tannoys to deeper and narrower will upset lower midrange balance. FWIW these drivers are designed to use big cabinets, if big is not your bag then you'd be better off selling them than forcing them into smaller cabinets. You will only add to their value by putting them in Tannoy spec cabinets. Do some research and make your mind up, FWIW they are enthusiasts drivers, designed more for studios than domestic environments, IMO for those that like it a lot louder than others, if your not a volume freak then the physics of high sensitivity and decent bass = big cabinets, is IMO not for you. (Its also true high sensitivity and decent bass appeals to the low power valve brigade who are not volume freaks, but nevertheless = big cabinets) /sreten. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto
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I think you might find my project interesting.
Single Driver Website The size of the cabinet is approx 75 liters and is consistent with the Tannoy Definition series. I would personally use a sub rather than go with a larger cabinet. Don |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Thanks for the info and the speaker design looks interesting. Would some sort of stand or something under the cabs be needed as i have a suspended wood floor which gives bass boom in my room.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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If they were mine, and I've owned a few Tannoys, I'd biamp with a dedicated LF driver under them. Model the Golds for a sealed box, then look for a 12'+ driver in a separate sealed sub enclosure under them. Sort of like a DMT12.
Based upon Don M's T/S a sub 20L for the G12 gives an F3 around 150Hz, and takes all the strain off it for reproducing LF, cleaning up the mids. Plenty of drivers will give you the LF section in a modest sealed or ported section. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Toronto
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Quote:
On the other hand build the 75 liter cabinets and add in multiple separate subs. Take a look at the AudioKinesis "Swarm" sub system. If you have a room that is not the best suited to bass this option could be a workable solution. Finally the ports on the Tannoy cabinets can be left open or closed. Don |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ATL
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Do you insist on having just two cabinets and no other drivers, or would 5 compact cabs (the two Golds and three small subwoofers) also work?
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#9 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
The G12 would need to be in the ported cab (or my biamped) to get the LF response down low enough so the bass isn't localisable. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Thanks for all the replies. Having done some research i think i will go with the enclosures i built many years ago. They are original plans from Tannoy and the internal dimensions are 760mm high, 400mm wide,and 260mm deep. I will increase the thickness of the sides to 18mm min. and the front baffle to at least 22mm thick, as they are for 15mm thick material. I think these enclosures are the sealed Chatworth rectangular design(please correct me if wrong as its hard to find dimensions for the 12"cabs.) Also what is the calculation to get the internal litres for these dimensions. Sorry if this is basic stuff but i dont do this diy building too often.
Could i also incorporate a GRF design into this enclosure or even a port. |
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