The only thing I can think of that would be even close would have you spray the cabinets with automotive chrome paint and let it dry. Then cover the cabinet with bar & table top epoxy resin. You mix, pour it on, spread it around and it will level itself. It dries hard and looks like glass. You would need 20 coats of lacquer or polyurethane to equal this.
The model airplane hobby uses many different self-adhesive heat-shrinkable plastic foils in many different metal-look-alike tones to make accurate scale models of various aircraft. Super shiny chrome is one of them. I don't think these are the colors you want, but they are fuel proof, so you could feasibly have a Molotov Cocktail mixing station right on top of your speakers. That's always an added plus for any audiophile quality speaker system !!! Plus, they are made of polyester film, so the covering will be good next-door neighbors for your capacitors.
On a more serious note, you can buy them in relatively large rolls. Foils do not tolerate abrasion and/or scratching very well. You can certainly use the "epoxy clear coat" method over the foils, but that comes with it's own set of problems, as opposed to spending huge hours with rubbing compound on lacquer... As an alternative, Rustoleum makes a super-shiny chrome spray paint.
Good luck !
Thanks but the design I have in contemplation has box corners rounded on all axes, i.e. doubly curved. I think the junction between metal sheets would show ... & especially with any dimensional variation due to atmospheric moisture.
Doug
Hmmm. Interesting. Would there not be a problem in that you could only coat the horizontal surface at one time?
Doug
Thanks. This leads to 2 questions:
1. What sandwiching layers are needed beneath the bright chrome spray?
2. Is there anyone who has used bright chrome spray for such an application? Were you satisfied with the result? & was it durable?
(Yeah, OK. That's 3!)
Doug
Focus on prep work
Haven't tried this, but doing an exceptionally good job of prepping the surface is likely critical. Seal and sand thoroughly - lots of info in other threads about people's preferred methods. Not many have mentioned it but I'd recommend doing all the base coats on both sides of the panels, so they absorb and release moisture evenly - that reduces the possibility joints will telegraph through to the finish. Might want to prep a small panel and use the chrome spray on it to see if you like the way it looks.
Haven't tried this, but doing an exceptionally good job of prepping the surface is likely critical. Seal and sand thoroughly - lots of info in other threads about people's preferred methods. Not many have mentioned it but I'd recommend doing all the base coats on both sides of the panels, so they absorb and release moisture evenly - that reduces the possibility joints will telegraph through to the finish. Might want to prep a small panel and use the chrome spray on it to see if you like the way it looks.
Look at the way tuck-and-roll is done. If there is a seam, it's wrapped around to an underside or back face, and hidden with a separate piece laid over the top of the seam ends. In this case, under the grill cloth may be an acceptable locale for a seam. Skill of application makes all the difference.
It may sound stupid to use model airplane polyester veneer, but it is self-adhesive, and heat-shrinkable. It will neatly cover any complex curve you place it on (it covers wing tips with NO WRINKLES). If you apply it over a well prepped box (like with sanding sealer, then sanded with used 120 or finer) you'll have a very smooth opaque surface. It's no different than vinyl veneer, but I'm positive you can find it in mirror-like chrome color.
Yes. I have used the Rustoleum product (got it at my neighborhood OSH) on a high powered model rocket with a phenolic fuselage. Very durable. Quality of results = prep : Prep is EVERYTHING - similar to those highly polished lacquer finishes, but substantially less work in terms of rubbing compound. And, you can always gloss clear-coat as the last step.
When I spray my rocket fin cans, there are many surfaces at varying angles. Mask off anything you don't want paint on, dangle the wrk from a cable attached on the inside (not touch any exterior surface. Thay way, you can freely rotate and/or walk around the work and spary all surfaces no matter what angle. If the speaker box is big, this method could be a problem...
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Others say the Rust-Oleum is not very durable.
Rust-Oleum RustOleum Chrome Metallic Spray Paint Enamel Reviews. Buying guides & consumer product reviews at Epinions.com
Places to search could be artist suppliers.
KUNSTPARK - Fachhandel für Künstlerbedarf & Künstlermaterial
Rust-Oleum RustOleum Chrome Metallic Spray Paint Enamel Reviews. Buying guides & consumer product reviews at Epinions.com
Places to search could be artist suppliers.
KUNSTPARK - Fachhandel für Künstlerbedarf & Künstlermaterial
Hi Ron,
Mylar is Dupont's trade name for polyester sheet coated with (usually) aluminum oxide. I would be worried about it's durability.
I think I recall seeing the Rustoleum product in local hardware suppliers.
As advised, I think my best course would be to do a careful trial before deciding if that is THE WAY.
Doug
* All of the above is in consideration of alternatives to having metal pieces custom made and chromed. I did consider searching for correctly-sized baking pans (that could be chromed), but I think that's a long shot.
As advised, I think my best course would be to do a careful trial before deciding if that is THE WAY.
Doug
* All of the above is in consideration of alternatives to having metal pieces custom made and chromed. I did consider searching for correctly-sized baking pans (that could be chromed), but I think that's a long shot.
With a good enough base prep, this automotive paint might do the trick:
MOTOCHROME
Those folks have lots of interesting finishes. I'd like to get a bicycle painted in their Hyperblue.
MOTOCHROME
Those folks have lots of interesting finishes. I'd like to get a bicycle painted in their Hyperblue.
From my point of view, you need to apply a sheets of metal (preferably soft steel) to your cabinet. You weld \ bend them before gluing the the cabinet leaving the bottom end opened.
But Before you glue to the cabinet you grind and polish the welds. you take it to a shop that can chrome it (electrolitic bath).
You put it back with shims spacers and glue et voila! A toaster like speaker cabinet!
The hardest thing to do is the Body work.
Seing that you have rounded edges you best bet is to bring it to a Bike shop where they build homemade gas tank. Or a shop that works with sheet metal. When the chromes is alpplied you wont see the seems.
But Before you glue to the cabinet you grind and polish the welds. you take it to a shop that can chrome it (electrolitic bath).
You put it back with shims spacers and glue et voila! A toaster like speaker cabinet!
The hardest thing to do is the Body work.
Seing that you have rounded edges you best bet is to bring it to a Bike shop where they build homemade gas tank. Or a shop that works with sheet metal. When the chromes is alpplied you wont see the seems.
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