More volume
...My initial calculation did not account for the volume reduced when cutting the hole for the driver. Also, subtracting the material thickness from the sphere reduces a surprising deal of volume. So I'm looking at a enclosure size closer to 3 litres than 4.
The volume of the mains could be enlarged with a tube-like stand like on the EBTB Pluto F. (cant find a retailer that has those, either)
http://www.ebtb.eu/Pluto F/PlutoF-White1-big.jpg
If dimensions allow, the top half of the stand could be made from an traffic cone turned upside down
http://www.liikennetuotteet.fi/images/stories/sulkulaitteet/970293.jpg
This would be part of the enclosure volume, the rest of the stand would be.. just a stand.
This will do nothing for the wall-mounted satellites, though. Things would be much easier if the crossover frequency of the AV-amp would be 100 HZ instead of 90.
I:-T
...My initial calculation did not account for the volume reduced when cutting the hole for the driver. Also, subtracting the material thickness from the sphere reduces a surprising deal of volume. So I'm looking at a enclosure size closer to 3 litres than 4.
The volume of the mains could be enlarged with a tube-like stand like on the EBTB Pluto F. (cant find a retailer that has those, either)
http://www.ebtb.eu/Pluto F/PlutoF-White1-big.jpg
If dimensions allow, the top half of the stand could be made from an traffic cone turned upside down
http://www.liikennetuotteet.fi/images/stories/sulkulaitteet/970293.jpg
This would be part of the enclosure volume, the rest of the stand would be.. just a stand.
This will do nothing for the wall-mounted satellites, though. Things would be much easier if the crossover frequency of the AV-amp would be 100 HZ instead of 90.
I:-T
Sorry, newbie here... I'm quite interested in trying to build a set of speakers using these Ikea bowls. I've read this thread a few times in its entirety so far but still have some questions. I'm looking to use these just by themselves ala bookshelf speakers for now.
1. I'm thinking of the CHR-70 + 28cm Ikea bowls, would it be better sealed or ported?
2. If the 28cm bowls turns out to be 14cm high does it still need a connection ring, especially for a partition wall with holes in it?
3. Is it better to recess the driver hole so the driver sits flush or is it mainly for aesthetics?
Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!
1. I'm thinking of the CHR-70 + 28cm Ikea bowls, would it be better sealed or ported?
2. If the 28cm bowls turns out to be 14cm high does it still need a connection ring, especially for a partition wall with holes in it?
3. Is it better to recess the driver hole so the driver sits flush or is it mainly for aesthetics?
Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!
I'm quite interested in building these ikea speakers. I'm looking at the CHR-70 + 28cm ikea bowls and use them just by themselves as bookshelf speakers for now. I've read this thread in its entirety a few times but there are still some stuff that's nagging me:
1. As above, thinking of using the CHR-70 full range drivers, would it better sealed or ported?
2. if the 28cm bowls are the correct 14cm height will I still need a connection ring, especially for a partition wall with holes for acoustics?
3. would it better to recess the hole for the driver to flush mount it or is this mainly for aesthetics?
Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!
1. As above, thinking of using the CHR-70 full range drivers, would it better sealed or ported?
2. if the 28cm bowls are the correct 14cm height will I still need a connection ring, especially for a partition wall with holes for acoustics?
3. would it better to recess the hole for the driver to flush mount it or is this mainly for aesthetics?
Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance!
Thanks gooki!
I quite like how this guy has made the ikea bowl speakers, they can be opened up on demand.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ge-speaker-photo-gallery-163.html#post2647622
Planet10, I saw your plans for the vented version, the middle of the partition is empty space?
I thot that was a good way of doing it... i may go ahead with something similar, but using the metal & plastic half spheres from 4 dead iMac LuxoLamps.
Yes. It acts as the input side of the vents.
dave
I double checked the ikea website and the 28cm bowl says its height is 13cm so a connection ring/partition would make sense if you want a proper ball shape. I thought about adding vents as I really liked your enclosure designs but I also liked the way that guy used the middle of the partition to secure the halves together...
Anyway, I'm going to be passing by an ikea tomorrow so I'm very likely to pick some up either way and decide later on!
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I've been doing some drawings and was wondering whether the bracing for the driver would be overkill?
That ws my 1st thot too, but you are cutting a BIG hole where the circular structure pushes the stresses, and the brace is also acting as a driver brace. This is probably more imprtantthan usual as there won't bemuch meat left after you get the driver properly rebated in.
So on 2nd thot, i'd say that it is not overkill. I'd use 12mm plywood.
dave
Has anyone here had any good result with the ikea bowl speaker? I wonder if, in that case, any driver recommendation for that project. It would be great if we could have a similar freq. response to the old gallo reference nucleus and thus not need any filter! I suspect the secret was in the way gallo stuffed the alu ball.
I have 2 x 4 lots of these legs holding up my computer tables. They ring like bells so I filled them with dry builders sand. It made a huge difference and they have a dull thunk now when hit. Also they weigh about 5kg each with the sand. I highly recommend. You could also fill them with
lead shot too.
Ikea seem to have changed these bowls, they are now made from Bamboo. Has anyone used these new models?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
