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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Tasmania
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I have some commercial hi-fi speakers that I am trying to improve, being as cheap as possible.
The "MDF" cabinets seem to be variable thickness particle board, and are only about 1/2'' thick. No bracing aside from some really tiny triangles along some edges. So far I have added some white synthetic material as dampening, which seems to have reduced some of the garbling. I have also added some fluffy material to a few sides, the material looking very similar to the one in the second post here. I wish to add some blu tack to the cheap stamped frame of the 5'' woofer. Will this make any noticable difference to the sound? (btw the crossover seems to be 2nd order, 2-way.) |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Port Elgin, Ontario, Canada
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Probably not noticeable. I've damped the baskets of small cheap drivers in the past. When tested before and after, I could see a slightly cleaner waterfall plot, almost all at high frequencies, above the crossover that would typically be used. Even then, I'm talking about "hash" that was at least 30 db down.
I think the cabinets are probably a much bigger problem... Having said all that, if it was me, I would likely damp the frames in any case, just 'cause I could... (but I would use a really "dead" material", like putty or my favorite, oil based modeling clay.) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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If it is added to the part where the frame and magnet join the yes, I use the stick-on felt you can buy from Bunnings on the inside of a couple of my drivers, it can make a substantial difference to the quality of the mid-range, but it isn't really cheap.
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Back in the 70's when I built my Pro9TL's, the going thing for damping the walls of cabinets was Bituminous paint. I don't know if you can still buy it. Perhaps some of that rough surfacing paint you can get for paths and decks would be suitable. So long as it dries a bit soft in texture and has a rough surface it may be suitable.
The Pro9TL's also used sheep's wool teased out (and treated for vermin of course) as the fibrous filling. Don't overstuff the cabinet whatever you use, or you will kill the bass response completely. Gary |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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For a cheap fix any scrap of MDF glued at random on the walls will work, sometimes very well, but a batten on the long walls, off-center will work a little better, show us a photo or three for a more informed comment, some of those early full range drivers sound quite good.
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#6 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Pictures would be useful.
I use duct seal to damp (and shape) baskets (the latter is as important as the former). ![]() Box bracing can make some serious improvements from your description. Adding any mass to the speaker box panels without adding stiffness will probably make things worse. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#7 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Quote:
enigmaticEntity If done properly and with square cut scraps you can add the dowel rod or batten between the sides by putting said horizontal batten on to the added vertical batten OR the glued scrap, adding remarkable stiffness for little extra cost or mass. Both are important but some things are easier to retro-fit, it will depend on what you can get through the driver cut-out
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Tasmania
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Here's some pics.
I'll be struggling for room with regards to the enclosure (though I'm sure I can manufacture something...) as is the case with commercial micro hi-fi speakers. There's also a 3.5'' dia. 2.5'' deep cylinder for a "virtual front surround" speaker inside the enclosure, which makes things more difficult, but it is near the top, so a brace for the longest sides may fit. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Dynamat Extreme works wonders on cheap stamped baskets.
__________________
"If it measures good and sounds bad, -- it is bad. If it sounds good and measures bad, -- you've measured the wrong thing." Daniel R. von Recklinghausen |
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