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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Finland
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I have a pair of Visaton W170S (4 ohm). I figured that for the Christmas holidays, I should start a new project with these and a something for the upper end, perhaps the Peerless 2" full range. The crossover could be something like 500 Hz. I was thinking of doing a 30l bass reflex enclosure for the bass (like the Visaton webpage suggests), and sealed enclosure for the Peerless, separated from eachother but in the same speaker box nevertheless.
I haven't got much experience designing speakers so help is much appreciated
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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looks to be good beginners project, 30L tuned to ~40Hz, although I'd be inclined to crossover lower, say 300Hz, and overlap the crossover for BSC, i.e. use 1st order xover but make the crossover point higher for the woofer... this will depend on the cabinet width, but will ultimately be a tweaking choice.
I'm not sure how accurate the published specs of Visaton drivers are, but should get you in the ballpark - you may have to tweak the box tuning, measure the drivers if you can... have fun...
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Finland
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Seems reasonable. I am mostly concerned if the two elements even can be put together without the project failing hard. Thanks for the advice, I might get building soon after christmas. If anyone has input to my project, please say so, every advice is appreciated.
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: England
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Quote:
I have recently looked at the w170s and indeed w130s for a 'budget system for a friend. Whilst i dont think they come close to the 'HI end' drivers visaton offer, i believe that the smooth breakup of these drivers is ideally suited to a beginner project; either conventional 2 way or bass and FR idea you are considering. In short i dont think you can go far wrong with those drivers, provided you can find a 2" FR that meets the performance of the w170. In terms of effeciency and decent power handling, considering a 1st order slope will still pass a fair amount of LF to the FR driver. As Pete says using an overlapping Xover(or maybe even asymetric?) to provide some BSC to the project would be useful. personally i would probably use 1st order LP for the w170, and a 2nd order HP for the FR driver. I think im right in saying the difference in phase using either type of xover will be small anyway, just one more cap in signal path would be the disadvantage. better power handling and control of the FR would be the benefit. (corrections if not Pete I have nothing but good words for the AL130 and AL200 bass drivers, although it may pay you to look at the 8 Ohm version, the w170s 8, unless you NEED a 4 Ohm system. Good luck, im sure the visatons wont disappoint. EDIT: ok i see the peerless is 4 Ohm... FR looks good, the only worrying thing is no Xmax is stated, not that it is of ultimate inportance, but it is worth considering if you intend on playing loud, even WITH a HP filter at 200Hz
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Im the guy that speaks in haste, and makes ill conceived theories, thinks math is a necessary evil, but i know something.Sometimes it bugs me, then i then i realise that theres 10 more just the same.So i guess Mulder was right. We are not alone. Last edited by mondogenerator; 23rd December 2009 at 09:46 PM. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: upper austria/near linz
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Quote:
i think you will not fail hard..............there are boxes with the w170 and a fullrange,here is an example Visaton - Lautsprecher und Zubehör, Loudspeakers and Accessories you must not build the w170 into the side wall or make a small baffle.......but you can do if you like that. greetings |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Finland
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Thanks for the informative post, 1st order LP for the W170 and 2nd order HP for the Peerless 2" FR sounds like a good choice. The thing is, I already own the 4 ohm elements, so I'm not too keen on ordering another pair. Would the 8 ohm version really be worth ordering a new pair?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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I'd use what you've got, actually I think the 4 ohm version will give you a bit more control over BSC & bass level...
(& a smaller inductor) - have a fun Xmas...
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky Last edited by PeteMcK; 24th December 2009 at 12:36 AM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Finland
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Thanks for the posts everyone, and Merry Christmas!
The current plan is a 30l bassreflex for the Visaton, a small sealed enclosure for the Peerless, and the crossover as PeteMcK and mondogenerator suggested. I'll get building soon, and post pics and listening experiences when they are ready. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Finland
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Sorry for the double post, but I'm bumping this for a question. Minding the budget, how much worse is the result if I do a 1st order HP for the full range? Big inductors are damn expensive
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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I've done a project similar to this, went well.
I used a pair of W130S per side. 1st order at 300Hz. Used a FRS8M, 2nd order at 300Hz. I'd advise the FR's XO to be 3rd order - at higher volumes, I can see the excursion. Edit - how many amps you got - you could do an active XO - much cheaper. IMO, go for it - I did and wasn't disappointed. Chris
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"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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