Hello everyone. I had a friend build me 2 nice speakers, of solid wood. But, he put cheap parts in. And not much sound comes out of them. Only the tweeter. has some sound comes out. I want to upgrade. This is what i have now, and recommendations? As far as price, I want to go mid-range to where i can say, 'well that's alittle to pricey for me'.
Goldwood GW-205/8S 5-1/4
*Power handling: 70 watts RMS/130 watts max *Impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 7.1 ohms *Frequency range: 80-6,000 Hz
Dayton DC25TS-8 1" Shielded Titanium Dome Tweeter
* Power handling: 50 watts RMS/75 watts max * * Impedance: 8 ohms * Frequency response: 3,000-20,000 Hz
Crossover: don't have a clue. It looks cheap, but i know its a 3 way. And from looking at all the dealer sites, nothing matches.
Kenwood KFC-W3003
12" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer
Goldwood GW-205/8S 5-1/4
*Power handling: 70 watts RMS/130 watts max *Impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 7.1 ohms *Frequency range: 80-6,000 Hz
Dayton DC25TS-8 1" Shielded Titanium Dome Tweeter
* Power handling: 50 watts RMS/75 watts max * * Impedance: 8 ohms * Frequency response: 3,000-20,000 Hz
Crossover: don't have a clue. It looks cheap, but i know its a 3 way. And from looking at all the dealer sites, nothing matches.
Kenwood KFC-W3003
12" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer
- power range 35-160 watts RMS
- peak power 600 watts
- frequency range 25-800 Hz
You haven't given us enough info. What is the internal volume of the cabs?
'not much sound comes out' - there must be something wrong with the wiring, can you post a schematic? Do you have parameters of the drivers?
Frankly, I think with your level of knowledge you're better to use an established design, such as those on Zaph's web site.
'not much sound comes out' - there must be something wrong with the wiring, can you post a schematic? Do you have parameters of the drivers?
Frankly, I think with your level of knowledge you're better to use an established design, such as those on Zaph's web site.
I'd be looking at Madisounds website at Vifa drivers that are high quality but not overly priced. Give us cabinet dimensions. Sounds like what you have now was just thrown together with little thought. Your not going to get much more that half decent sound with a $11.33 midrange driver and a $49.00 12" "teenager" car sub.
cmon , Pete Mck , don't be too rigorous ...! I see it's an horrendous case too , but easy moves can be done . I would simplify everything as the following : run the woofer without any filter ( red is plus , black is minus etc.etc.);
extract from the crossover the capacitor (should be in value between 1-6,8 uF)that goes to the tweeter, and put it between the input and the tweeter (series connection )positive . this is the easiest crossover : it protects the tweeter from low frequencies and uses the natural roll-off of the woofer .
Good luck!
extract from the crossover the capacitor (should be in value between 1-6,8 uF)that goes to the tweeter, and put it between the input and the tweeter (series connection )positive . this is the easiest crossover : it protects the tweeter from low frequencies and uses the natural roll-off of the woofer .
Good luck!
I have done that with a 5" in 7liter closed, and a cheap cone tweeter
Nice speaker
Drivers
The Dahlquist from PE looks better, at same price as GW
And similar small Tympany looks a bargain too
And Peerless V-line
Or Vifa M13SG, theres a nice 6.5" brother too
TB W5-704D
all from same PE site as the GW woofer
Vifa 3.5" TC9FD might be a good "tweeter"
Dont try to do a 3way that way
If you want more bass, consider a sub
And if you expect it to be loud, consider something completely different
Nice speaker
Drivers
The Dahlquist from PE looks better, at same price as GW
And similar small Tympany looks a bargain too
And Peerless V-line
Or Vifa M13SG, theres a nice 6.5" brother too
TB W5-704D
all from same PE site as the GW woofer
Vifa 3.5" TC9FD might be a good "tweeter"
Dont try to do a 3way that way
If you want more bass, consider a sub
And if you expect it to be loud, consider something completely different
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Sorry, I see now you are trying to repair a 3way speaker, of which none of the drivers work
Oh dear, thats a really tough one
But if the tweeter is the only one still working, it must be a good one
If its still any good, maybe better keep that one
If its a cone tweeter, they can sound very nice, really
Could still have lightly burned voice coil, even if still playing
Oh dear, thats a really tough one
But if the tweeter is the only one still working, it must be a good one
If its still any good, maybe better keep that one
If its a cone tweeter, they can sound very nice, really
Could still have lightly burned voice coil, even if still playing
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Although not the ideal way to select a woofer, this tool from Parts Express can get you pointed in the right direction.
Mike
Speakers at Parts Express - Subwoofers, Woofers, Midranges, Tweeters, Planar, Car, Pro, Musical
Mike
Speakers at Parts Express - Subwoofers, Woofers, Midranges, Tweeters, Planar, Car, Pro, Musical
It sounded to me like he wanted to upgrade from the cheap parts he has now...which i assume is driver selection using middle of the road drivers, not high end but not cheapie parts either. His tweeters may be decent but he need decent mids and woofers also and the ones he has now are far from decent and not worth wasting time on.
And now you ask, its also a way to find correct driver polarity
when a cone moves out, the terminal connected to battery +, is also driver +
But not on tweeters ofcourse
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