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| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Hi All
A couple of months ago I finished building my standmount 2 way speakers. I built them with the help of Wilm$low audio. For drivers I have used ScanSpeak 8531G00 and D2900/7100. The D2900 is amazing, truely, truely amazing. I've never heard anything like it and I'm so pleased with it. The 8531 is not quite as good. The mid is pretty good and I'm pleased with it. The bass is shocking. Well it might be if I could detect some bass. I've attached my crossover diagram (supplied by Wilm$low) and some diagrams that show the dimensions of the cabinet. What can I do to produce more bass? What could I be missing and what could I have done wrong with this? I was thinking the other day that I could have wired the crossover up incorrectly and put the capacitor that is in parralel to the woofer before the inductor rather than after it. Would this produce very poor bass results? Thanks Chris
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Chris R ------- |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsingborg Sweden
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My uneducated ques is that the resistors in the crossover is killing the bass.
I think you might need to lower the high to get to the same level as the low.
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To play with OP-amps in audio is like playing card with devil, you can never win. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Could be but there's no power at all to the bass. Even quieter high's wouldn't bring that umph that I'm missing :-(
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Chris R ------- |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: North Georgia
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Placing the woofer cap before the inductor will increase the midrange signal above the design target and, potentially worse for the life of your amplifier, put a heavy capacitive load directly on your amp. If wired in error, it should be corrected immediately.
If the attached plots are accurate, the design is voiced very "hot" in the midrange and treble. Before chucking the crossover design entirely, you might try reducing the value of the resistor in parallel with the tweeter and/or increasing the value of the resistor in series with the tweeter.
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Paul |
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#5 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Quote:
Check over your crossover first to make sure you have it wired correctly. BTW, the resistors pad down the tweeter and shouldn't have any effect on the woofer. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Thanks for the feedback so far. I'll have a check over the weekend and let you know.
Out of interest if I wanted (needed!) to add a subwoofer to my setup what would I need in terms of amps/crossovers. Any good threads on this? Thanks
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Chris R ------- |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Loads.
What size sub, what bass extension you after, what's max cost? We can probably help you when you answer these.
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"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Size Sub - no bigger than 10-12 inch. Bass extension? I'm not sure what you mean by this but I'm guessing how low? As low as poss. Max cost would be about £400/$700
Thanks
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Chris R ------- |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
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Seems as though the design lacks baffle step correction?
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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You assumed correct. Nice budget, btw - I made a sub go to 28Hz on £42, so getting something decent from 10x that should be easy enough...
How about box size? You could use a 10" speaker, in a horn and get the output of a very respectable 15". The size of the box, however, wouldn't be small....
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"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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