Troels' PMS (multilayer assembly) build thread

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Installation of the cross-over on the bottom-plate
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Cross-overs are bolted to the bottom plate using "silent-blocks" which are actually nothing else that short pieces of isolation from a 50mm² power cable.

Does not look very engineered, but should uncouple the cross-over mechanically from the cabinet and from the "feel" it gives will do it's job.

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Looks huge actually :eek:
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Here we go with the dry assembly...

Installing the 10mm threaded rods (3/8" should do as well) on the bottom plate (rods are 1 m overall length) and assembling back-side-parts
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Assembling the front-side parts :
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Adding one bracing
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Going on with some rear and front-side elements
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Top view showing the groove in the back-side parts
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More parts
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Just keep it going...

Bracing for the woofer area
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Fitting 1/4 parts on the front-side of the cabinet for the front-plate (using 1/2 or 1/4 drastically reduces raw material consumption for only slightly longer machine time)
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Tiling them up, tiling them up... a couple of minutes later (no kiddin')
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Wofoer area assembled, lower mid-volume enclosure in place
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Some more parts for the the mid-volume, a total of 7 are necessary for the 4 liters something needed
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Finally the closed volume
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The cut-out on the top-layer is for fitting the mid, we'll see later that it will cause some trouble...:mad:
 
Finished dry assembly
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Front view
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Rear view
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Playing around with the parts, using some of them upside-down, gives this.

Yet another reason not to paint them.. :D
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After correcting the positition of the front plates (they were too low actually) and fitting the ground plate this is what it should look like at the end.

Front view
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Rear view
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With the front-plates
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


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What a beauty. :up:
Is the small baffle that driver mount on to, is it replaceable?

Had another thought about your question today...

It's actually possible do design the front baffles in the way that they have a peripheral groove on the inner side and use a very large o-ring or standart sealing gasket. Using thread inserts in the cabinet would then allow to bolt the baffle to the cabinet... giving a full modularity if wished and/or needed.
 
You have done an impressive job.

Have you considered using plywood instead of MDF?

And did i get it right that are you using a crossover designed for different drivers?

dave

Thanks a lot for you comment Dave. It's actually possible to use plywood instead of the MDF.

The crossover design is as per Troels layout in his PMS -Project, they have been designed for these drivers.
 
This is a beautiful looking speaker that uses a lot of materiel and time. Be able to use drivers other than the Seas will open up possibility for future mod. And You never know what Troels will come up next. ;)
I was quite keen at this PMS at one stage but give up bec my over the top idea and limited wood working skill.
Other than having a replaceable baffle, I was thinking of making it into a bass reflex and/or transmission line speaker. With the removable/replaceable baffle, you can close some of the middle area off. Once you plug the bottom vent, it can become a J or double J shape transmission line. Not sure if this will be an optimum transmission line but... the option is there.
 
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In order to align all the parts properly during the assembly process some kind of "help" was needed, we used some thin plywood for the front and the back and MDF for the borders. All of them strapped tighly.

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Lateral MDF to apply pressure where necessary without stressing the angles.

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Enough theory now, let's start the final assembly starting with the woofer area. All parts have been numbered in order to reproduce the "zebra-design" as seen during the dry-assembly.

Bottom plate and threaded rods again
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Preparing the glue
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Glueing
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Tiling the first parts up
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Making sure the glue fills all the grooves intended for
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Some more parts

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