Installation of the cross-over on the bottom-plate
Cross-overs are bolted to the bottom plate using "silent-blocks" which are actually nothing else that short pieces of isolation from a 50mm² power cable.
Does not look very engineered, but should uncouple the cross-over mechanically from the cabinet and from the "feel" it gives will do it's job.
Looks huge actually
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Cross-overs are bolted to the bottom plate using "silent-blocks" which are actually nothing else that short pieces of isolation from a 50mm² power cable.
Does not look very engineered, but should uncouple the cross-over mechanically from the cabinet and from the "feel" it gives will do it's job.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks huge actually
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here we go with the dry assembly...
Installing the 10mm threaded rods (3/8" should do as well) on the bottom plate (rods are 1 m overall length) and assembling back-side-parts
Assembling the front-side parts :
Adding one bracing
Going on with some rear and front-side elements
Top view showing the groove in the back-side parts
More parts
Installing the 10mm threaded rods (3/8" should do as well) on the bottom plate (rods are 1 m overall length) and assembling back-side-parts
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Assembling the front-side parts :
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Adding one bracing
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Going on with some rear and front-side elements
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Top view showing the groove in the back-side parts
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
More parts
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just keep it going...
Bracing for the woofer area
Fitting 1/4 parts on the front-side of the cabinet for the front-plate (using 1/2 or 1/4 drastically reduces raw material consumption for only slightly longer machine time)
Tiling them up, tiling them up... a couple of minutes later (no kiddin')
Wofoer area assembled, lower mid-volume enclosure in place
Some more parts for the the mid-volume, a total of 7 are necessary for the 4 liters something needed
Finally the closed volume
The cut-out on the top-layer is for fitting the mid, we'll see later that it will cause some trouble...
Bracing for the woofer area
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Fitting 1/4 parts on the front-side of the cabinet for the front-plate (using 1/2 or 1/4 drastically reduces raw material consumption for only slightly longer machine time)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Tiling them up, tiling them up... a couple of minutes later (no kiddin')
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Wofoer area assembled, lower mid-volume enclosure in place
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Some more parts for the the mid-volume, a total of 7 are necessary for the 4 liters something needed
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Finally the closed volume
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The cut-out on the top-layer is for fitting the mid, we'll see later that it will cause some trouble...
Skipped the starting point in the previous post.. here it is.. bolting the rods to the bottom plate
and this one
Rear-side view showing the curve of the cabinet
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and this one
Rear-side view showing the curve of the cabinet
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
What a beauty.
Is the small baffle that driver mount on to, is it replaceable?
Yes, basically it is, but the real question is what kind of drivers to fit instead!
Finished dry assembly
Front view
Rear view
Playing around with the parts, using some of them upside-down, gives this.
Yet another reason not to paint them..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Front view
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rear view
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Playing around with the parts, using some of them upside-down, gives this.
Yet another reason not to paint them..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After correcting the positition of the front plates (they were too low actually) and fitting the ground plate this is what it should look like at the end.
Front view
Rear view
With the front-plates
Front view
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rear view
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
With the front-plates
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Some inside views...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A fascinating construction! Should be really solid when completed
Thanks for your comment Dr.EM Finished speakers are well over 50 kg each..
What a beauty.
Is the small baffle that driver mount on to, is it replaceable?
Had another thought about your question today...
It's actually possible do design the front baffles in the way that they have a peripheral groove on the inner side and use a very large o-ring or standart sealing gasket. Using thread inserts in the cabinet would then allow to bolt the baffle to the cabinet... giving a full modularity if wished and/or needed.
Substantial weight, I expect mine to be 50Kg for the pair! Also, I notice a gap/void all around the back sections, is this to be filled with something or perhaps left as an air gap?
Good question ... yes, they will be filled. I let you guess will show it shortly anyway
You have done an impressive job.
Have you considered using plywood instead of MDF?
And did i get it right that are you using a crossover designed for different drivers?
dave
Thanks a lot for you comment Dave. It's actually possible to use plywood instead of the MDF.
The crossover design is as per Troels layout in his PMS -Project, they have been designed for these drivers.
This is a beautiful looking speaker that uses a lot of materiel and time. Be able to use drivers other than the Seas will open up possibility for future mod. And You never know what Troels will come up next.
I was quite keen at this PMS at one stage but give up bec my over the top idea and limited wood working skill.
Other than having a replaceable baffle, I was thinking of making it into a bass reflex and/or transmission line speaker. With the removable/replaceable baffle, you can close some of the middle area off. Once you plug the bottom vent, it can become a J or double J shape transmission line. Not sure if this will be an optimum transmission line but... the option is there.
I was quite keen at this PMS at one stage but give up bec my over the top idea and limited wood working skill.
Other than having a replaceable baffle, I was thinking of making it into a bass reflex and/or transmission line speaker. With the removable/replaceable baffle, you can close some of the middle area off. Once you plug the bottom vent, it can become a J or double J shape transmission line. Not sure if this will be an optimum transmission line but... the option is there.
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In order to align all the parts properly during the assembly process some kind of "help" was needed, we used some thin plywood for the front and the back and MDF for the borders. All of them strapped tighly.
Lateral MDF to apply pressure where necessary without stressing the angles.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Lateral MDF to apply pressure where necessary without stressing the angles.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
To avoid gluing the "mould" to the parts some kind of isolating layer had to be used, testing some 30µm PE film generally used for filming goods for transport.
Easy, cheap, validated !
Easy, cheap, validated !
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Enough theory now, let's start the final assembly starting with the woofer area. All parts have been numbered in order to reproduce the "zebra-design" as seen during the dry-assembly.
Bottom plate and threaded rods again
Preparing the glue
Glueing
Tiling the first parts up
Making sure the glue fills all the grooves intended for
Some more parts
Bottom plate and threaded rods again
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Preparing the glue
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Glueing
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Tiling the first parts up
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Making sure the glue fills all the grooves intended for
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Some more parts
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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