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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Hello, I have the Wharfedale 9.6 and 9cm. I would like to upgrade the crossovers. Can you help me in the choice of components?
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
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am i a super noob but does m and b on the crossover stand for mid and bass ? my M by default is run to the lowest speaker, is this correct ?
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
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can someone help a noob out, does the M and B on the crossover stand for mid and bass ? im looking at mine and the M appears to be run to the lowest driver ? is this wrong ?
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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It's just a W read upside down !!
And W stands for .... YES !!!
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
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okay, am i the only one that finds these speakers lack some bottom end then ?
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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OK, mate. Let's have a look at this.
The dome and tweeter layout makes sense. It effectively makes a giant tweeter that crosses over at about 1kHz. I can't make much sense of the left hand woofer with the simple coil. I presume it's the bottom driver with some natural rolloff around 500Hz, but I really don't know. The markings are curious. M seems to say midrange, but that makes no sense. The B section with a coil and 22uF capacitor connected to the top woofer in its own little enclosure should cross over to the dome and tweeter reasonably well at about 1kHz. I'm guessing on the coil values, by the way. TBH, this is an odd design. I must be missing some essential feature. I would expect the bottom woofer to have a 50uF capacitor or similar.
__________________
Good Night, and Good Luck. Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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first deafault cross is 3.5 wey. I use MOX resistors of mundorf, and capacitors of jantzen. wire is 2,5 mm2
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