WHat should I do ????? - Page 2

Moondog55 · 19th November 2009, 05:23 AM

YES
NP caps

THUMP LUMP · 19th November 2009, 05:58 AM

Cool. The "No" was really a consensus from what I searched. Only one place said "yes" while the rest didn't say one way or another.

Does that mean that I have to use cheesy electrolytic caps or, do I have options here. Searching P.E. doesn't say on many of them.

And thanks for setting that straight.

TheSeekerr · 19th November 2009, 06:09 AM

All film caps are non-polar. Most electrolytics are polar.

You want EITHER film caps (expensive for values higher than about 2uF) or bipolar electrolytics.

- Chris

Moondog55 · 19th November 2009, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSeekerr

All film caps are non-polar. Most electrolytics are polar.

You want EITHER film caps (expensive for values higher than about 2uF) or bipolar electrolytics.

- Chris

Except I would have said expensive for values higher than 10uF, Go with green-caps perhaps if the idea of better film caps hurts the wallet

TheSeekerr · 19th November 2009, 09:00 AM

Depends where you're buying of course - at my local jaycar, it's hard to get film caps > 3.3uF without going to their polypropylene range, at about $2 a uF.

THUMP LUMP · 19th November 2009, 05:26 PM

If I read this right, these should be fine for low pass use, correct?

Jantzen CrossCaps are built from ultra-high-quality Finnish film and provide superb sonic accuracy and detail for any audio application. 400VDC rating is excellent for crossover networks, allowing the capacitors to flawlessly handle large current peaks without distortion.

If not, can anyone suggest another?

Moondog55 · 20th November 2009, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSeekerr

Depends where you're buying of course - at my local jaycar, it's hard to get film caps > 3.3uF without going to their polypropylene range, at about $2 a uF.

I haven't bought greencaps in a while but Jaycar Thomastown had values to 12uF in stock, can't remember how much I paid though

giralfino · 20th November 2009, 11:07 AM

THUMP LUMP, PeteMcK,

I would like to build the jig, but I have some problem in correctly understanding the design. Are you so kind to share some photo of the jig? A PM is also fine.

As for capacitors, if used in parallel for a woofer, you could also use a polyester one (150V), better than the electrolytics (they tend to vary in value over time), no need to use a more expensive polypropylene (400V).

TIA, Ralf

THUMP LUMP · 20th November 2009, 07:00 PM

Here are some pics I found of the jig...

THUMP LUMP · 21st November 2009, 05:35 AM

mmmmm.........I got to looking around in the various forums here and found this....DIY Chip Amplifier Kits, PCB's, Components and Information. over in the "Chip Amp" forum. Since the main reason for going to a passive crossover setup was to eliminate one of the two amps I am using now in a bi-amp setup with the speakers mentioned prior, it looks like I could build some of these and save alot of space and still keep the bi-amping.

I think I will looking into these kits some more and see if I am up to doing them. Meanwhile, I have gotten the MDF I need to build the proper size cabinets for the A/D/S woofers. Once I get the woofers and tweeters in the cabinets, I am going to get some Frequency Response measurements from them. Just see how well they work in the box, independently and together.

19th November 2009, 05:23 AM	#11
Moondog55 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia	YES NP caps __________________ QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING"

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19th November 2009, 05:58 AM	#12
THUMP LUMP diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Arden,NC	Cool. The "No" was really a consensus from what I searched. Only one place said "yes" while the rest didn't say one way or another. Does that mean that I have to use cheesy electrolytic caps or, do I have options here. Searching P.E. doesn't say on many of them. And thanks for setting that straight.

19th November 2009, 06:09 AM	#13
TheSeekerr diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2008	All film caps are non-polar. Most electrolytics are polar. You want EITHER film caps (expensive for values higher than about 2uF) or bipolar electrolytics. - Chris

19th November 2009, 09:00 AM	#15
TheSeekerr diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2008	Depends where you're buying of course - at my local jaycar, it's hard to get film caps > 3.3uF without going to their polypropylene range, at about $2 a uF.

19th November 2009, 05:26 PM	#16
THUMP LUMP diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Arden,NC	If I read this right, these should be fine for low pass use, correct? Jantzen CrossCaps are built from ultra-high-quality Finnish film and provide superb sonic accuracy and detail for any audio application. 400VDC rating is excellent for crossover networks, allowing the capacitors to flawlessly handle large current peaks without distortion. If not, can anyone suggest another?

20th November 2009, 11:07 AM	#18
giralfino diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009	THUMP LUMP, PeteMcK, I would like to build the jig, but I have some problem in correctly understanding the design. Are you so kind to share some photo of the jig? A PM is also fine. As for capacitors, if used in parallel for a woofer, you could also use a polyester one (150V), better than the electrolytics (they tend to vary in value over time), no need to use a more expensive polypropylene (400V). TIA, Ralf

20th November 2009, 07:00 PM	#19
THUMP LUMP diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Arden,NC	Here are some pics I found of the jig...

21st November 2009, 05:35 AM	#20
THUMP LUMP diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Arden,NC	mmmmm.........I got to looking around in the various forums here and found this....DIY Chip Amplifier Kits, PCB's, Components and Information. over in the "Chip Amp" forum. Since the main reason for going to a passive crossover setup was to eliminate one of the two amps I am using now in a bi-amp setup with the speakers mentioned prior, it looks like I could build some of these and save alot of space and still keep the bi-amping. I think I will looking into these kits some more and see if I am up to doing them. Meanwhile, I have gotten the MDF I need to build the proper size cabinets for the A/D/S woofers. Once I get the woofers and tweeters in the cabinets, I am going to get some Frequency Response measurements from them. Just see how well they work in the box, independently and together.

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