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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Hi all,
This will be my first attempt at DIY. I'm looking to build a cabinet as small as possible, but still allow the driver to work as intended. The driver will only be used for mids in a sealed box. The x-over will be set between 80Hz-200Hz. I have yet to pick out a driver. Anything from 5"-7" will be sufficient. But size is important. The smaller the cabinet the better. I have a pair of Usher 8948A. I know this is a larger driver and I might not be able to get the cabinet small enough. Any recommendations on how small I can go with these? http://www.loudspeakershop.eu/pdf/8948-a.pdf I've also been looking at the 5.5" Seas CA15RLY http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=106&Item id=128 or the 6.5" Peerless HDS 830883. http://www.madisound.com/pdf/peerless/830883.pdf Any help or suggestions with either a cabinet design or driver will be appreciated. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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This is a good driver and you say w/cut frequency about 80/200Hz meaning you have a sub or another woofer? As a mid you can make the box smaller, I think it might work. You will need then tweeters with the 8948s. What are going to be the drivers for low frequencies?
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Fall Of The Republic |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Any suggestions on how small I can make the cabinet for the 8948s? Inductor, a little side not. I have a friend who just got back from Cascais. She loved it
Last edited by persisting1; 6th November 2009 at 12:49 PM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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You have the possibility of making a closed box (blue=7,8L) with freq F3 about 80/90/100Hz. Also if you want a speaker (mid) than can run without the sub look at the BR boxes (brown=14L/red=13L). You get better integration, phase with closed boxes but have in mind that in the case of smaller boxes like 5/6L you have resonant frequencies (up) very close to 100Hz. So that's why I say the blue box seems a good compromise, maybe with a xover around 100/150Hz, you get the idea. I'm being flexible and someone will say different. This is a first approach that needs to be checked again.
![]() Really nice. Hope they had a nice weather too.
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Fall Of The Republic Last edited by Inductor; 6th November 2009 at 08:17 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Thanks for the help Inductor.
I think I'll go with a smaller driver. I'm looking for a 6" or 6.5" driver now. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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Quote:
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Fall Of The Republic |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Inductor, PM sent.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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I understand that space is a problem from your PM and that you need your system on a table/workstation. I don't have a small speaker system, there are a few in DIY, from memory. Some people also say good things about COAX'S, in this case maybe (it) doesn't make sense. Maybe the Focal's www.zalytron.com/ for your project. The only problem, is that the metallic cones, like the one you have (in second), are difficult to work with. Maybe someone can chime in.
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Fall Of The Republic Last edited by Inductor; 7th November 2009 at 06:38 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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Look, as another example, at Mid Woofers drivers Mid Woofers - Meniscus Audio Group, Inc.| Speaker Components |, like in your 3.option above. Set some max prices for those, also, so others can help, or get a complete (new) DIY project with xover made by others.
Ex: SEAS, ER15RLY SEAS, ER15RLY by: SEAS Prestige - Meniscus Audio Group, Inc.| Speaker But as you are working with a sub you don't need this so much, just a/the mids section/mid woofer project. This is for a 5" MID-WOOFER. http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/HDS134_DX.htm
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Fall Of The Republic Last edited by Inductor; 7th November 2009 at 07:07 PM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Inductor,
What would be the smallest cabinet I could build for the Seas CA15RLY? THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - H1216-08 CA15RLY Thanks |
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