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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Hi all,
This will be my first attempt at DIY. I'm looking to build a cabinet as small as possible, but still allow the driver to work as intended. The driver will only be used for mids in a sealed box. The x-over will be set between 80Hz-200Hz. I have yet to pick out a driver. Anything from 5"-7" will be sufficient. But size is important. The smaller the cabinet the better. I have a pair of Usher 8948A. I know this is a larger driver and I might not be able to get the cabinet small enough. Any recommendations on how small I can go with these? http://www.loudspeakershop.eu/pdf/8948-a.pdf I've also been looking at the 5.5" Seas CA15RLY http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=106&Item id=128 or the 6.5" Peerless HDS 830883. http://www.madisound.com/pdf/peerless/830883.pdf Any help or suggestions with either a cabinet design or driver will be appreciated. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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This is a good driver and you say w/cut frequency about 80/200Hz meaning you have a sub or another woofer? As a mid you can make the box smaller, I think it might work. You will need then tweeters with the 8948s. What are going to be the drivers for low frequencies?
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Quote:
Any suggestions on how small I can make the cabinet for the 8948s? Inductor, a little side not. I have a friend who just got back from Cascais. She loved it Last edited by persisting1; 6th November 2009 at 12:49 PM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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You have the possibility of making a closed box (blue=7,8L) with freq F3 about 80/90/100Hz. Also if you want a speaker (mid) than can run without the sub look at the BR boxes (brown=14L/red=13L). You get better integration, phase with closed boxes but have in mind that in the case of smaller boxes like 5/6L you have resonant frequencies (up) very close to 100Hz. So that's why I say the blue box seems a good compromise, maybe with a xover around 100/150Hz, you get the idea. I'm being flexible and someone will say different. This is a first approach that needs to be checked again.
Really nice. Hope they had a nice weather too. Last edited by Inductor; 6th November 2009 at 08:17 PM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Thanks for the help Inductor.
I think I'll go with a smaller driver. I'm looking for a 6" or 6.5" driver now. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Inductor, PM sent.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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I understand that space is a problem from your PM and that you need your system on a table/workstation. I don't have a small speaker system, there are a few in DIY, from memory. Some people also say good things about COAX'S, in this case maybe (it) doesn't make sense. Maybe the Focal's www.zalytron.com/ for your project. The only problem, is that the metallic cones, like the one you have (in second), are difficult to work with. Maybe someone can chime in.
Last edited by Inductor; 7th November 2009 at 06:38 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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Look, as another example, at Mid Woofers drivers Mid Woofers - Meniscus Audio Group, Inc.| Speaker Components |, like in your 3.option above. Set some max prices for those, also, so others can help, or get a complete (new) DIY project with xover made by others.
Ex: SEAS, ER15RLY SEAS, ER15RLY by: SEAS Prestige - Meniscus Audio Group, Inc.| Speaker But as you are working with a sub you don't need this so much, just a/the mids section/mid woofer project. This is for a 5" MID-WOOFER. http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/HDS134_DX.htm Last edited by Inductor; 7th November 2009 at 07:07 PM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Inductor,
What would be the smallest cabinet I could build for the Seas CA15RLY? THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - H1216-08 CA15RLY Thanks |
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