Hard to judge without information about drivers
With WMTMW as the foundation I would not go beyond 5" mid, preferably smaller
And a tweeter that could be crossed around 1khz
Vifa has a cheap 3" fore mid, and TB a cheap 2" fore tweets
This combination has been in my head fore a while
With WMTMW as the foundation I would not go beyond 5" mid, preferably smaller
And a tweeter that could be crossed around 1khz
Vifa has a cheap 3" fore mid, and TB a cheap 2" fore tweets
This combination has been in my head fore a while
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I have tried many co-axials. like everything else there are tradeoffs. Never found one I like. They always have a problem.
Terry
Thought I would just mention this cheap alu cone 4" midrange coax
http://oaudio.de/Loudspeaker-chassis/NEW-SPEAKERS/OmnesAudio-CX-30::727.html
http://oaudio.de/Loudspeaker-chassis/NEW-SPEAKERS/OmnesAudio-CX-30::727.html
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MTM is like large coaxial, point source. At least when listened your head still. MTM has couple of advantages, more cone area, more vertical directivity, single tweeter for more accurate highs.
Well, I am just pretty close to finishing WWMTM, so I would like to ask also a question about crossover.
Woofers are side mounted, so I am probably cut them about100-125Hz, but what kind of crossover type I need to use: 2nd, 3rd, 4th?
Same thing for M, will cut HP about 100-125Hz, so how high order is good here? 4th?
What are the arguments?
Woofers are side mounted, so I am probably cut them about100-125Hz, but what kind of crossover type I need to use: 2nd, 3rd, 4th?
Same thing for M, will cut HP about 100-125Hz, so how high order is good here? 4th?
What are the arguments?
Well, I am just pretty close to finishing WWMTM, so I would like to ask also a question about crossover.
Woofers are side mounted, so I am probably cut them about100-125Hz, but what kind of crossover type I need to use: 2nd, 3rd, 4th?
Same thing for M, will cut HP about 100-125Hz, so how high order is good here? 4th?
What are the arguments?
For the woofer to mids at that frequency, I'd be thinking 4th order LR. It's less sensitive to their relative positions and keeps midrange out of the woofer circuit. See, for example, the M3.3 mods I documented on my website.
4.order on the acoustic side(measured) could easily look like 12db/2.order electrically
Or at least values could be very far from ideal electrically 24db
But if you have to ask about such things, 4th order is probably not what you should do
You might have more luck staying with a series inductor and a zobel impedance correction(cap+resistor)
And fore tweeter I would advise the same, series cap with impedance correction(inductor+reistor)
But the slopes you are able to achieve between midwoofer and subs might have some influence on above
Even if MTM, I would still consider the 2.5way BSC thing
Whether the midwoofers need to be cut low is a matter of several different things
Like specs on drivers, request fore SPL etc.
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Not only "could," but "would." To get the LR4 crossover at 110Hz in my speaker, I biamped, with an active 4th order LR lowpass on the woofer, adjusted the Q and fo of the midbass/midrange combo to get the right acoustic second order highpass, then used a second order highpass filter (active) on the amp for the upper end. With a little bit of adjustment of relative phase, the transition was seamless.
Yes, if that works it will be the best
If it doesnt work, it could be a matter of a bit of adjusting, back and forth
Dont judge the sound until you have made some effort to make it work
To me, those things take time, sometimes a lot
I have used years on mine
Nice to have something than can be improved almost endlessly
Seems all the frustration is forgotten now
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It may work out being purely a cosmetic decision Andy, i have always thought that symmetrical driver arrangement sounded better because they LOOKED more balanced.
You could use OB for all drivers if you are willing to cut the LF off at the knees and Bi-amp and cross to a biggish sub-woofer at 80-100.
Have to say though that my OB 3-way is on its 3rd rebuild and I am in no way happy with it yet, but the better the drivers I use the happier I am with it; but the latest iteration seems to sound much better with a quite complex XO, 2nd / 3rd ----2nd /3rd-------- with a 0.5 woofer as well.
Regards
Ted
You could use OB for all drivers if you are willing to cut the LF off at the knees and Bi-amp and cross to a biggish sub-woofer at 80-100.
Have to say though that my OB 3-way is on its 3rd rebuild and I am in no way happy with it yet, but the better the drivers I use the happier I am with it; but the latest iteration seems to sound much better with a quite complex XO, 2nd / 3rd ----2nd /3rd-------- with a 0.5 woofer as well.
Regards
Ted
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