you can say that again. what year is on your sales slip? if it is from 1976 you should have the lifetime warranty. you just have to lie and say you bought them.
I was looking at the catalogs that was the only year they offered the lifetime warranty. I am guessing if the old capasitors are old and shot they should be covered by that warranty.you can say that again. what year is on your sales slip? if it is from 1976 you should have the lifetime warranty. you just have to lie and say you bought them.
Yup you may find when you open em up the foil from what used to be the caps popped out and unraveled . This usually caused by someone driving the amp into severe clipping. I would use some thing a little better than the Solens here (my opinion only). The other common cause of no mid\tweeters in R.S. speakers was oxidized L-pads take some fine sand paper and cleanup the windings and you may get your sound back.
Iam not sure I want to get into that "what cap is best" discussion here, it's just that most seem to agree that the solens are kind of a bottom end of audiophile caps. for a step up the clarity cap 's are not very much more in price, again you will get as many opinions as there are people. As allways Buy the best you can afford.
As far as what order?, I would do the horn crossover first you will hear the biggest improvment here. Ill have to admit here that it has been so long that I really don't remember much about the Mach1 crossover, it seems like it was 12db/octave (anybody have one open to look?)
As far as what order?, I would do the horn crossover first you will hear the biggest improvment here. Ill have to admit here that it has been so long that I really don't remember much about the Mach1 crossover, it seems like it was 12db/octave (anybody have one open to look?)
Nice read! Mine has the brown spray painted bottom. I've attached a pic of the crossover. Three inductors, three caps and two resistors. Can anyone tell if this is this one of the cheap crossovers/speakers?
I do understand the fanaticism that surrounds capacitors, but I am new to the whole area, and learn by asking others and trying things myself. I always appreciate the input that I can get, even if someone else things that you're wrong/they are more right! I just see them as different options. What I do like reading about is when people identify what the potential sonic differences are between different brands/applications.
I do understand the fanaticism that surrounds capacitors, but I am new to the whole area, and learn by asking others and trying things myself. I always appreciate the input that I can get, even if someone else things that you're wrong/they are more right! I just see them as different options. What I do like reading about is when people identify what the potential sonic differences are between different brands/applications.
Attachments
Most any polypropylene cap is going to be a world apart from those 30 year old dried out electrolytics. For cleaning the L-pads I have had good results using Cramolin De-Oxit . What I usually do is remove the back cover by bending the little metal tabs back and then use a small piece of silicon carbide wet-n-dry sandpaper 400 or 600 grit with some of the de-oxit sprayed on it and then finish with a shot of the de-oxit followed by an application of Cramolin preserve-it . these cleaners Can be found at www.partsexpress.com at least I think they still carry them. cleaning or replacment of the l-pads is important even if they are not scrachy as oxidization of the contact point can form a diode causeing rectification of the signal making them sound spitty and gritty .
happy modding! it's all fun
happy modding! it's all fun
The receipt is in a box from the recent move, still unpacked. IIRC it was 79 or 80. RatShack was called Tandy down here and have changed hands at least once. Even if they did offer the warranty, I'm not sure they'd still honour it and for the $ involved, it's not worth the hassle. Mine are fine as they are.you can say that again. what year is on your sales slip? if it is from 1976 you should have the lifetime warranty. you just have to lie and say you bought them.
You could, but the M1 xovered to the horn at about 800Hz so you'd need to change the xover to a lower F. Integrating it as part of the existing Klipsch xovers would be a true PITA and there would be phasing issues at LF between the PR bass and the M1.
Hello All,
I have designed speakers and tube amps for the last 25 years. I have taken measurments on the mach ones and have found they can be made much better. I am looking to see if anyone have the information on the original 4024 crossover parts. The pair I have and have done the testing on is the 4029. If anyone has the list of crossover parts for the 4024 or a hi-res picture that you can see the values it would be helpful. Please contact me if you can provide either of these. And Thanks!
I have designed speakers and tube amps for the last 25 years. I have taken measurments on the mach ones and have found they can be made much better. I am looking to see if anyone have the information on the original 4024 crossover parts. The pair I have and have done the testing on is the 4029. If anyone has the list of crossover parts for the 4024 or a hi-res picture that you can see the values it would be helpful. Please contact me if you can provide either of these. And Thanks!
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