The hardest part of veneering around a corner (sound like a description of the way I drive!) - is that the grain makes it difficult to get smooth...You end up with a high line instead of a nice curve. I hear a bit of water on the veneer helps, but I found strectching it as much as possible, before splitting it is OK too...
My next speakers will definately be real solid wood...Al, where did you source that flamed sycamore from; it looks stunning!
I have been working my way up the finishes. First I used a quick hammerite paint (!), then properly sprayed, then veneer and next will be proper wood!
Thanks,
Gaz
My next speakers will definately be real solid wood...Al, where did you source that flamed sycamore from; it looks stunning!
I have been working my way up the finishes. First I used a quick hammerite paint (!), then properly sprayed, then veneer and next will be proper wood!
Thanks,
Gaz
Bricolo said:
Sorry, I thought I anwered your question
The method I used was to build the entire box from plywood, including the front, and then apply a decorative baffle of solid hardwood. You could do this with MDF, as it is finished black, any material will do, but you may have to use paint rather than stain on MDF.
If you were to make the box entirely from MDF, then you should apply veneer, as Rarkov and many others have done, and then you could finish the veneer as I suggested, with oil and wax. Bare MDF is only really suitable for painting IMHO.
Gaz- I have a very good woodyard 2 miles from my house!
http://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/
The sycamore just came in with their regular stock, I just happened to be in that day and almost grabbed it off the truck. It was just a coincidence, there were only 2 boards with that figure, and they happened to be bookmatched. Some other bits went to make my Gainclone. Pics here-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=135432#post135432
Hello Gaz
Nice speakers, I will have to come around too see all the stuff you have made.
Could you e-mail me your post code and house number so i can find your house on multimap.com . I dont think I will be able to make it this week as my car is at a garage having the rust removed and a new door put on and sprayed
See you later.
Mark
Nice speakers, I will have to come around too see all the stuff you have made.
Could you e-mail me your post code and house number so i can find your house on multimap.com . I dont think I will be able to make it this week as my car is at a garage having the rust removed and a new door put on and sprayed
See you later.
Mark
Bricolo said:
It ain't happenin'! At least not yet! I have all the Audax drivers but I heard some Neat Acoustic Ultimatum MF5s. They were fantastic so I spent loads of money on good drivers. I tried bending wood to make those speakers but the problem I had was not getting a uniform curve, but getting it all square and true. Maybe when I finish my CNC Routing machine, I'll CNC a profile out of thick pieces and join them up. If I'm clever, I'd be able to CNC tonque and grooves into these profiles so I would, in effect, have curved laminate flooring!
Anyway - that is a while off yet...Kram:
I am away on site all of next week (at Ryemeads near the M25). I should be around the week after. I'll email u my postcode.
Gaz
Hi again,
After extended listening I have found that the bass has improved beyond all recognition! A few things I have noticed:
o These Peerless HDS 164 need alot of time to break in!
o They like being played loudish
o I have very "big" carpets - Isolation spikes worked wonders!!!
I am converted - these things do work!
Gaz
After extended listening I have found that the bass has improved beyond all recognition! A few things I have noticed:
o These Peerless HDS 164 need alot of time to break in!
o They like being played loudish
o I have very "big" carpets - Isolation spikes worked wonders!!!
I am converted - these things do work!
Gaz
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