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#21 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: City of Angles
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Quote:
Quote:
In terms of specs, its not too complicated, but I use MJK's mathcad worksheets, along with some help from John K's Dipole Design software, and a lot of background from Siegfried Linkwitz. The primary specs of interest are Qts (values around 1 mean higher efficiency in the low end), the volume displacement (Sd times Xmax), and Re, the DC resistance. There are others that matter too, but those were the first I was looking at. Yes, a boxed loudspeaker would produce more sound. I feel the quality of the sound out weights the additional drivers. I don't know about specifics though (max output) - but it is definitely easier to make OB baffles than traditional boxes! I assume the radiation pattern is similar to an H-frame horizontally, although I'd have to measure to know for sure. Vertically, its similar too, up to about 400Hz. Generally, OB speakers have to be at least a few feet from the walls (the more the better), and I definitely wouldn't put them in a corner. Remember there is an out of phase backwave that we don't want coming to us immediately.
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: City of Angles
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Next part of the adventure:
I've been using these a while, and am considering some changes. First, using separate amps is causing ground loop issues (high noise levels). I don't think the extra amp is justified anymore - a single 50W amp can get things pretty loud (should be easily able to do over 100dBSPL/1m at 50Hz considering both speakers and music as a source). Removing the second amp and wiring everything in series/parallel results in a hit of -6dB to the stated sensitivity. This could be avoided by using the 12" versions instead of the 10", and using 4ohm versions instead of 8ohm. The other thing I'm considering is adding an inductor to the lower woofers. This should push up the upper possible crossover point some. I'm thinking of 100-120Hz as the roll-off point. But if the woofers are wired series/parallel, an inductor will be seeing a 16ohm load, and require about a 20mH inductor. This is relatively expensive ($30 a piece), almost the cost of the second set of amps. Maybe not part of a budget design. So I'm not ready to pull the trigger on that yet. Keeping things how they are, I could use a smaller inductor, or just add a cap across the input of the amp of the lower woofers. Hmmm...
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: City of Angles
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Yes, four of the Goldwood GW-212/4 wired in series/parallel should give the same voltage sensitivity as the above designs at 50Hz, while using only one amp. The enclosure will be a little bigger, but that might be okay, the current enclosure is fairly modest.
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Melbourne
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I think this thread needs a bit of a bump, in light of how spectacularly successful Cuibono's dipoles turned out. Considering how small this section really is, yet reaching 30Hz -6dB in free space (perhaps even lower in room!) this is remarkable, if not outright unbelievable, especially if we mention the price !!!
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: City of Angles
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Thanks for the bump! I really enjoy sharing these designs.
I am pretty happy with the woofer design - it sounds really solid, when everything comes together. Although 30Hz/-6dB is pretty good, the nonlinear distortion begins to rise below about 40Hz, IIRC. I'll build sealed subs at some point, and probably cross them around 40Hz or so. But all in all, this seems to be a pretty solid design. It needs little EQ, which is nice too - particularly no dipole roll-off compensation, which is usually the big one. I guess I didn't finish the design really - I never posted any dimensions or anything. I'll probably do a google sketchup one of these days. My impression is that the dimensions are not particularly critical - one could probably change things by an inch in any direction, without too much changing.
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double complete rainbow all the way!! |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Taiwan
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It'll be interesting if you try this:
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
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CLS, I don't know what you used to generate the graphic, but I think the reality of the situation will have more pronounced squashing of the central + lobe due to the increase in intensity of the - side lobes because of the near rear boundary. If the graphic was done by proper calculation using physics law, I eat my text.
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Taiwan
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Take it easy, it's just a rough sketch to show the idea only (Powerpoint saved as jpg). As you can see, there's no numbers / coordinate axis or the likes on that sketch
![]() Oh, both the (+) and (-) lobes are 'loaded' by the near boundry, aren't they? I added a rear wall on the speaker (not only the 'brick wall'). It's not there in the original design. Last edited by CLS; 3rd March 2010 at 02:42 AM. |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
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As an aside, I recently made a set a of dipole PC speakers using the square basket PE 10's, and they work great with some EQ. I know EQ isn't what the flea power crowd wants to hear, and these square drivers haven't been in fashion since the early 80's, but they spec. out great if you come to appreciate a more highly damped sound at the usual frequency / transient response tradeoff midpoint of natural Q=.7. They have bigger magnets, longer coils, and higher excursion compared to the Goldwoods at about the same money. The Fs is nice and low. They are really good drivers for moderate power and low crossover points considering the cost. I will say I had to add glue to large sections of the surround right out of the box, other than that build quality is slightly better than the GW215s I bought years ago, where the surround was glued well enough but quite a bit out of round. Now if only we could get someone to make drivers of similar design with shorting rings added, a finishing touch that only the OB crowd would want in such "wimpy" speakers.
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: PA
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If you mean the driven impedance would fall then yes, but this works only because the intensity is higher for a greater volume around the driver, which is why it would help to better pinch off the desired lobe, a real -.
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