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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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I was rereading Loudspeaker Design Cookbook the other day and ran across these little gems in the speaker mounting section. They are rubber grommets with brass nuts inside. When you insert one in wood and screw the speaker in, the rubber expands and grips the wood, anchoring the speaker.
This is supposed to isolate the driver acoustically from the box. Is this total overkill? Has anyone used them? They're not that expensive but they come in two varieties. One has a large flange on top and the other has a smaller flange. Which is best for this purpose? Please let me know of any experience with these. I'm in the process of building some very high end speakers so if they do make a difference I don't mind ordering them. Thanks, Phil |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Sounds like a cab for real rough duty
Cheers! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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What?
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#4 |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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To obtain any decoupling effect you must also use a foam or similar gasket between drive unit chassis and baffle. Personally I don't believe there would be any effective decoupling as it would all be so tightly put together.
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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I always use window insulation foam tape to mount speakers since it is closed cell and will seal the opening quite well. How do you seal your drivers? Silicone caulk is too permanent for me.
I was kind of wondering if it was just too much but they aren't that expensive and if they do offer even a slight advantage, I'd go ahead. I'm leaning on buying both types and trying each just for grins. I was hoping someone else picked up on these since they are mentioned in the cookbook but who knows, perhaps I'd be the first! |
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