How do you deal with "backside" bevel of driver cutouts?

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Most designers instruct builders to put a 45 degree chamfer or similar relief on the backside of the baffle around the driver cutout, but this removes a good portion of the baffle material where it's most needed. In addition, it leaves an angled surface against which nuts cannot properly seat.

Care to share your tips on how to deal with it?

Peace,
Tom E
 

GM

Member
Joined 2003
Right on! What I do with a large rotary grinder/wood rasp bit, though of course a hand rasp works just as well, just a bit slower and I've seen photos of similar done with a router/large round over bit:

GM
 

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Just another Moderator
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I originally chamfered with a 45 degree router bit, but was unhappy with the result, so first took to it with a wood rasp, and then with a tungsten carbide tip on my dremel.

I Drilled the mounting holes before routing, then drilled again bigger to allow for the nuts. put on the chamfer and then glued the nuts in with araldite (with the screws in place... It doesn't matter if you get some araldite on the threads they screw right out.

pictures with just the chamfer and finally after attacking with the dremel.

Note I have not yet done any tests to see what a difference it has made, concentrating on finishing the boxes before I get sucked into testing to death again ;) With 25mm thick front pannels I don't think taking out as much as I have is going to have a negative effect strength wise :) certainly there is no drumminess about these cabinets!

Note I went half way between what GM and LIFU did. the screws were down in the 45 degree chamfer section, but since I dremeled after that I took it out much further where the screws wern't. all the way to within 1/2 mm of the front of the baffle.

Tony.
 

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