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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
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I found these in my parent's garage. I think they are old Radio Shack "Realistic" speakers that were part of a console system. The console, I hope, had some sort of EQ because they sound painful and as far as I can tell are beyond saving unless I were to perhaps use a wideband tweeter that will play down to 500Hz.
...but on the other hand, I hate throwing stuff out. Top line is frequency response from the listening position Bottom lines are nearfield individual responses of the components outside the box (6" away).
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Combined response looks like both drivers are working full range, would sound awful, especially if tweeter is breaking up at the lower end.
What about some photos of the XO network? Response of the midrange actually looks OK on paper, what did it sound like on it's own? might make a good cheap OB mid.
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
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Photo 2 shows the elaborate crossover. aka, a capcitor in-line with the tweeter, I bypassed it when I took the response by itself.
Last edited by chuyler1; 27th August 2009 at 09:07 PM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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for some reason I can't see your FR pic, a Bug?
anyway, I'd remove that horn thingy, damp the whizzer with some foam, and see how they sound running with the back off the cab...???
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‘today… there lives alongside the twentieth century the tenth or thirteenth. A hundred million people use electricity and still believe in the magic power of signs and exorcisms” Trotsky |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Same here, I can see the pictures, but not the measurements.
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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last image is visible if you paste it's link into new browser window.
I guess you don't want to spend too much on new drivers or crossover. I'd filter out higher woofer frequencies, with something like 2mh coil in series and 50mfd cap in parallel. and tweeter level may be brough down a little with small value resistor 2-3 ohm. and of course I'd remove whizzer from woofer |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Hmm............ thanks, though it still doesn't explain why............
GM edit: Weird! Now that I've posted it separately, the original displays for me.
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. Last edited by GM; 28th August 2009 at 04:25 AM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
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So do you actually think these are resurrect-able with a proper crossover network? They might be useful in the garage (if I had a garage).
The tweeter doesn't seem to have any worthwhile qualities but I'll run some more tests. I was ready to toss them in the trash (well, maybe I'll save the woofers for some sort of desktop subwoofer system...but even then at 8w they probably won't last long.) |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Germany
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The woofer has less power than the tweeter, that's odd. It actually looks more like a full ranger.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Massachusetts
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What do you mean by less power? The woofer is run full-range while the tweeter just has a cap on it.
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