I use Speakon NL-4 and 4mm posts in parallel for general wire termination compatibility, but in my system I use only the Speakon. Never loosens, no short to GND danger when handling, locks in place, does not corrode or gets dirty. Could never hear differences between posts, only when they were not gripping well.
What I have done is take enough speaker cable direct from the internal output points and, having drilled an adequate size hole close to the terminals - which are through hole types my Michell - and secure the lead out wire in the same terminal. With the lead out from the amp twisted to the speaker cable and secured under tension in the terminal I think that I have a far better joint and as close to 100% integrity as is reasonable to expect.
I find that the cheap posts work loose and have to be tightened down many times. Some will do so on the slightest provocation, even a slight tug on the wire - specially with spades as the connectors.
I love the Speakons too. Reliable contacts, and can stand literally millions of plug and unplug cycles. Never work loose or lose a contact. They are not 'audiophile approved', but work a treat. I rarely use anything else on amplifiers. On speakers, I've never built a pair with binding posts, but usually dangle the entire wire length out of a hole in the back. I haven't built any speakers in a while though, but I guess I'd use more conventional posts on them.
Some cheap brass posts do degrade the sound, but we're talking discount-quality Chinese stuff. I suppose a pure copper post will improve conductivity, but I'm not sure it's audible.
I love the Speakons too. Reliable contacts, and can stand literally millions of plug and unplug cycles. Never work loose or lose a contact. They are not 'audiophile approved', but work a treat. I rarely use anything else on amplifiers. On speakers, I've never built a pair with binding posts, but usually dangle the entire wire length out of a hole in the back. I haven't built any speakers in a while though, but I guess I'd use more conventional posts on them.
Some cheap brass posts do degrade the sound, but we're talking discount-quality Chinese stuff. I suppose a pure copper post will improve conductivity, but I'm not sure it's audible.
There will always be differences in aesthetics, construction quality and the like but no difference in sonics. The fewest possible connections between the source and the speakers is probably a sensible goal.
Many people don't use binding posts at all, and I'm one of them. In my speakers I simply drilled holes in the enclosure the same diameter as the cables and snaked the cables through them. Some may think this leaves a possibility of air leaks, but from what I can tell the cable-hole interface is well sealed.
Many people don't use binding posts at all, and I'm one of them. In my speakers I simply drilled holes in the enclosure the same diameter as the cables and snaked the cables through them. Some may think this leaves a possibility of air leaks, but from what I can tell the cable-hole interface is well sealed.
Attachments
I've had good luck with these from PE:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You might be surprised. When the damaged gold-plated pins on a pair of old XLO speaker cables I've had for years were replaced with silver spades (reasonably-priced AudioNotes to match the amp's binding posts) it made a surprising difference. Take that at its sighted, anecdotal worth, all I can say is the swap was made as a grudging repair task and not an upgrade. After all, those were XLO pins.
OT - I always thought rdf's avatar looked familiar.
Maynard G Krebs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5yvMExqKNA
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On topic. Binding posts are like many things in speaker design, a mainly aesthetic and practical decision. I have used cups and brass bolts, but having seen the benefits of speakons recently, I will probably use them in my next project.
Maynard G Krebs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5yvMExqKNA
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On topic. Binding posts are like many things in speaker design, a mainly aesthetic and practical decision. I have used cups and brass bolts, but having seen the benefits of speakons recently, I will probably use them in my next project.
These are what I use, mainly for the locking and convenience.
This build I'm using threaded brass rod and nuts/locknuts with crimped spades as I can get all of it free from work.
Many years ago I once used a set of no brand, gold plated, shiny, thick and strong looking binding posts, typical "hi-end" looks stuff you all know...
And guess what, one of them was broken by the torque and tension on post by the associate nut! I'm nowhere near Hercules kind and work with just simple handheld tool.
I saw the cross-section where broken, it looked 'powder-like' composition. "Solid metal" was only 'skin-deep', a very very thin layer of skin on the thread Strength problem aside, I think the signal and current transmission in such conductor would never be good (as what it looked).
I never bought and used that kind of binding posts since then. Screw type terminal blocks are my favorite.
And guess what, one of them was broken by the torque and tension on post by the associate nut! I'm nowhere near Hercules kind and work with just simple handheld tool.
I saw the cross-section where broken, it looked 'powder-like' composition. "Solid metal" was only 'skin-deep', a very very thin layer of skin on the thread
Strength problem aside, I think the signal and current transmission in such conductor would never be good (as what it looked). I never bought and used that kind of binding posts since then. Screw type terminal blocks are my favorite.
I use these:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=J152-ND
with these:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2
the latter of which can be found on sale for less than a buck a pair.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=J152-ND
with these:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2
the latter of which can be found on sale for less than a buck a pair.
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