hi all im new as you can see and i want to build a pair of some bookshelf speakers. i don't want them too large or expensive. i have build some sub boxes and they turned out "ok", but i want to step up my game a little.
this is what i have so fare
Drivers i am planing on using:
Peerless 830656 5.25" Woofer - PDF - http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/830656.pdf
and
Dayton DC28FS-8 1-1/8" Shielded Silk Dome Tweeter - PDF - http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/275-075s.pdf
that's about the max i will spend for drivers. it will be driven by my Pioneer stereo that puts out ~100watts. i was told that having the magnets of the drivers to be inline with each other would help make it sound better?!?! is there truth to that?
i attached a pic of the box design i'd like to make. its the bottom design not the top. i used Bassbox6 Pro to design the box around the woofer's perimeters and came up with a F3 of 60Hz.
i been thinking of crossing them over at around 2400-2800Hz with a second order Linkwits-Riley. definitely need a lot more help here.
this is what i have so fare
Drivers i am planing on using:
Peerless 830656 5.25" Woofer - PDF - http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/830656.pdf
and
Dayton DC28FS-8 1-1/8" Shielded Silk Dome Tweeter - PDF - http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/275-075s.pdf
that's about the max i will spend for drivers. it will be driven by my Pioneer stereo that puts out ~100watts. i was told that having the magnets of the drivers to be inline with each other would help make it sound better?!?! is there truth to that?
i attached a pic of the box design i'd like to make. its the bottom design not the top. i used Bassbox6 Pro to design the box around the woofer's perimeters and came up with a F3 of 60Hz.
i been thinking of crossing them over at around 2400-2800Hz with a second order Linkwits-Riley. definitely need a lot more help here.
Attachments
Welcome to the forums!
The design seems fair enough (nice to see speakers which are symmetrical when next to each other).
Some advice - save around a litre or two for bracing the speaker (using wood inside to connect the panels of the cabinet, to reduce vibrations and colouration), as bracing will improve the sound dramatically.
The tweeter - response looks ok to me - the only really messy bit is above 15Khz, and most people have low sensitivity to those frequencies anyway.
You could bring the crossover up to 3Khz (when listening off-axis), as the response of the woofer is fine to that point, and it's a commonly used frequency for crossing over, so there has to be some merit there.
Good luck
Chris
The design seems fair enough (nice to see speakers which are symmetrical when next to each other).
Some advice - save around a litre or two for bracing the speaker (using wood inside to connect the panels of the cabinet, to reduce vibrations and colouration), as bracing will improve the sound dramatically.
The tweeter - response looks ok to me - the only really messy bit is above 15Khz, and most people have low sensitivity to those frequencies anyway.
You could bring the crossover up to 3Khz (when listening off-axis), as the response of the woofer is fine to that point, and it's a commonly used frequency for crossing over, so there has to be some merit there.
Good luck
Chris
Thanks guys.
ya i was considering on bracing the inside a little. maybe add a horizontal piece between the tweeter and the woofer. all of this will be constructed with 3/4" MDF.
i guess ill aim for a 3k crossover then. would it be better with a "Buttersworth or a Linkwits-Riley 2nd order?
what should i aim to tune the box to?
if you can find a new tweeter that is under $20 a piece ill consider it. and im ok on using a 2 way but nothing much higher then that. if a 1 way is better for my application i wouldn't mind that ether.Hi bobfig,
Why don't you ask the guys for a better tweeter. Look at the top frequencies, response looks so bad to over 20K. You can go onand choose a 1.order xover with a good tweeter (response<3KHz) and save in xover parts, did you think about that.
ya i was considering on bracing the inside a little. maybe add a horizontal piece between the tweeter and the woofer. all of this will be constructed with 3/4" MDF.
i guess ill aim for a 3k crossover then. would it be better with a "Buttersworth or a Linkwits-Riley 2nd order?
what should i aim to tune the box to?
Download Winisd (free), plug in the parameters, and figure out for yourself the box tuning - it's easy.
Xover - LR 2nd order is usually a good choice.
Alternative tweeters - the HiVi K1 has a good rep
Aligning magnets - I think this is a reference to 'Time Alignment' - actually what needs to be aligned are the voice coils. Have a read: http://sound.westhost.com/ptd.htm
Xover - LR 2nd order is usually a good choice.
Alternative tweeters - the HiVi K1 has a good rep
Aligning magnets - I think this is a reference to 'Time Alignment' - actually what needs to be aligned are the voice coils. Have a read: http://sound.westhost.com/ptd.htm
thanks
1) i have used Winisd but i am on vista and it messes up. i use bassbox6 pro which i think is a little better. i was meaning more along the lines on for the woofer being in a box that is 70Hz would be better then one in a 55Hz tuned one. maybe tune it to the woofer's Fs of 62.4Hz. i just didn't want to go to low. at the moment it's at 61Hz in the attached image on the original post
2) for the Xover thanks for the back up
3) i did see that tweeter but i couldn't find the power handling. i don't want to burn it out.
4) ill have to look into that
Unibox is a good alternative to Winisd. The box you propose is 9 Litres - Unibox shows this is a bit small for venting, you're probably better to use that as a closed box and cross over to the sub at around 100Hz. - assuming you are going to use a sub. Otherwise I'd go for 22L boxes tuned to about 45Hz, maybe a bit big for you?
ok thank you very much. so a box tuned to around 45Hz with some bracing. with a L-R crossover at 3k.
ill update my drawings to update this.
BTW im using Bassbox6 Pro!!!!
ill update my drawings to update this.
BTW im using Bassbox6 Pro!!!!
ok i redid the drawing.
the internal distentions are 8"w x 13.25"h x 12"d it gives me a total volume of .736ft^3 (20.84L) the center brace is the pink. this box is going to give me a Fb of 45.87Hz.
for the crossover im going to use 3.3uF caps with .90mH inducers. from the calculator that im using it says for the L-R crossover needs to have .85mH inducer but partsexpress.com doesn't sell any, so from what i read on a different website to go from a .90mH to .85mH inducer is to unwind 2 times. so im going to do that.
i have came across "zobel crossover network", would that be worth putting in on the woofers?
the internal distentions are 8"w x 13.25"h x 12"d it gives me a total volume of .736ft^3 (20.84L) the center brace is the pink. this box is going to give me a Fb of 45.87Hz.
for the crossover im going to use 3.3uF caps with .90mH inducers. from the calculator that im using it says for the L-R crossover needs to have .85mH inducer but partsexpress.com doesn't sell any, so from what i read on a different website to go from a .90mH to .85mH inducer is to unwind 2 times. so im going to do that.
i have came across "zobel crossover network", would that be worth putting in on the woofers?
Attachments
nonono i extended the back. im new here so they have to approve my post's so my post don't show up fast.
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For a suggested box and tuning see the "official" word from the manufacturer:
http://www.tymphany.com/830656-app-note
I did build a speaker with this woofer, using a Vifa tweeter. My box is about 12L tuned to approximately 50Hz, and crossed at 3k. If you want details, ask.
Ralf
http://www.tymphany.com/830656-app-note
I did build a speaker with this woofer, using a Vifa tweeter. My box is about 12L tuned to approximately 50Hz, and crossed at 3k. If you want details, ask.
Ralf
ok modified to the recommended spec's.
8w x 13.25h x 7.5d volume of .42ft^3 (12L) tuned to 55.43Hz
im liking this one and will most likely going to go with this one with the above crossover.
still wondering about if i should add a zobel network to the crossover or not.
8w x 13.25h x 7.5d volume of .42ft^3 (12L) tuned to 55.43Hz
im liking this one and will most likely going to go with this one with the above crossover.
still wondering about if i should add a zobel network to the crossover or not.
Attachments
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bobfig,
I don't qualify as an expert but I see some problems with your design.
First, the tweeter you choose is more sensitive than the woofer, so you have at least to pad it down. Second, it seems you did not take in account the baffle step effect.
I suggest you to read the thread of my project, in which some members gave me good advice on how to proceed with the calculations using free spreadsheets:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140231
You have the luck of having the spl data of both woofer and tweeter on John Krutke site so you can use real data:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/index.html
Ralf
I don't qualify as an expert but I see some problems with your design.
First, the tweeter you choose is more sensitive than the woofer, so you have at least to pad it down. Second, it seems you did not take in account the baffle step effect.
I suggest you to read the thread of my project, in which some members gave me good advice on how to proceed with the calculations using free spreadsheets:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140231
You have the luck of having the spl data of both woofer and tweeter on John Krutke site so you can use real data:
http://www.zaphaudio.com/index.html
Ralf
i already use one really good excel calculator that can calculate what ever i need it to.
so for one your saying i should add some resisters to drop the SPL of my tweeter to the SPL of the Peerless woofer? if so i need to drop it by 3, so i calculate a 2.34ohm in series and a 19.39ohm in parallel to the speaker.
looking at zaphaudio.com (been there and i think that's where i found the woofer im using) he has general info and opinion on the speaker and tweeter.
ill draw up a new crossover and post in in a little bit. thanks for the more info.
so for one your saying i should add some resisters to drop the SPL of my tweeter to the SPL of the Peerless woofer? if so i need to drop it by 3, so i calculate a 2.34ohm in series and a 19.39ohm in parallel to the speaker.
looking at zaphaudio.com (been there and i think that's where i found the woofer im using) he has general info and opinion on the speaker and tweeter.
ill draw up a new crossover and post in in a little bit. thanks for the more info.
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