Capacitor Identification Help Please!

jpjsenior · 30th July 2009, 02:24 PM

Hi there,

Following on from a previous thread, I've since purchased a multimeter and have tested all components in my tannoy mercury mx-1's. All the components including drivers have continuity except for what looks to me like a capacitor. However, the text written on it does not make any sense to me as it does not have a farad rating. The text reads,

5.6k
100V

I've attached a pic to show it,

Does anyone know if this is a capacitor and what type I should replace it with? From what I can make out it is connected to the circuit at the +ve terminal of the tweeter.

Thanks in advance
Jon

Mr Evil · 30th July 2009, 03:59 PM

5.6uF, 100V, some type of plastic film, probably polyester or polypropylene.

The "K" denotes tolerance. 10% in this case, I think.

cliffforrest · 30th July 2009, 04:17 PM

Correct.

And being in series with the tweeter gives a classic first order high pass filter.

If the tweeter is nominally 8R impedance, 5.6uF will start to roll off above 3.5KHz, which seems to be in the ballpark.

Calculate here

Face · 31st July 2009, 01:24 AM

There's no coil in the circuit?

Regardless, replacing it with just about any aftermarket cap will make an improvement. A dayton cap there would be a good bang for the buck.

pjp · 31st July 2009, 07:04 AM

No continuity is definitely a bad sign. You should try re-forming the capacitor with a voltage higher than 100V, that will usually restore continuity.

dayton caps are no good, if it were up to me, I'd replace them with Virgin Platinum Capacitors (manufactured by Vestal Inc.) - they are the best money can buy.

Face · 31st July 2009, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pjp
No continuity is definitely a bad sign. You should try re-forming the capacitor with a voltage higher than 100V, that will usually restore continuity.

dayton caps are no good, if it were up to me, I'd replace them with Virgin Platinum Capacitors (manufactured by Vestal Inc.) - they are the best money can buy.

Capacitors should NOT have any continuity. Why would you reform a 100v cap with voltages greater than 100v? Do you have any clue of what you're talking about?

Dayton caps are a good bargain, but far from the best.

Here is the king:

30th July 2009, 03:59 PM	#2
Mr Evil diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Behind you	5.6uF, 100V, some type of plastic film, probably polyester or polypropylene. The "K" denotes tolerance. 10% in this case, I think. __________________ https://mrevil.asvachin.eu/

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30th July 2009, 04:17 PM	#3
cliffforrest diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: UK	Correct. And being in series with the tweeter gives a classic first order high pass filter. If the tweeter is nominally 8R impedance, 5.6uF will start to roll off above 3.5KHz, which seems to be in the ballpark. Calculate here

31st July 2009, 01:24 AM	#4
Face diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	There's no coil in the circuit? Regardless, replacing it with just about any aftermarket cap will make an improvement. A dayton cap there would be a good bang for the buck.

31st July 2009, 07:04 AM	#5
pjp diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: under the rainclouds	No continuity is definitely a bad sign. You should try re-forming the capacitor with a voltage higher than 100V, that will usually restore continuity. dayton caps are no good, if it were up to me, I'd replace them with Virgin Platinum Capacitors (manufactured by Vestal Inc.) - they are the best money can buy.