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Old 19th October 2009, 12:04 PM   #11
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Post Calling Richmond on Richmonds

Hi,
I found this forum when searching for details on crossovers for Castle Richmonds, I have a pair but the bass driver foam has perished and I wanted to see if I could replace the drivers. I'd like to find out what the crossover frequency is and potentially build a bi-wire compatible crossover.
Nice to see that an original designer from Castle is a member of the forum and I hope he will be able to shed some light on the technical details.

Regards,
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Old 11th March 2010, 05:18 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pipedreamer View Post
Hi,
I found this forum when searching for details on crossovers for Castle Richmonds, I have a pair but the bass driver foam has perished and I wanted to see if I could replace the drivers.
(...)
You can change the surrounds. I personally would use rubber, as I'm doing with Bose's foams but you have it all available here with instructions, you just have to measure the cone you need it for. The right glue is available.

I'm looking for solutions for Harlech's-S1 polypropylenes here

Last edited by Inductor; 11th March 2010 at 05:25 AM.
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Old 12th November 2010, 07:42 AM   #13
tecker is offline tecker  Czech Republic
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Default Asking for a help with Castle Durham 900 speakers

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Originally Posted by tecker View Post
Hi Andy, first of all sorry for bothering you and for my crappy Czenglish. I noticed on this forum that you used to work for Castle. I wonder if you have worked on Castle Durham 900 speakers and if you would be willing to help me with some things I wasn't able to solve. I must say I realy like these speakers and the modding is mostly for my amusement, but surely I hope I would be able to hear the results.

First question is concerning the crossover. I would like to replace the bi-polar capacitors with ClarityCap MKPs, mostly because in my opinion the elyts are getting old and these speakers deserve this change. Do you think there should be any values changed due to the capacitor type change (this MKP cap has much lower resistance)?

The next thing is if there is a possibility that there is a 9db gap around 4kHz - I found this by nearfield measurement, but not sure if I made any mistake, or if it is a microphone error. I thought I could add a parallel capacitor to the one in the highpass filter to get the tweeter go down a bit to cover this gap. The next advantage, in my opinion, would be that the trebles would clear a bit if some high quality capacitor used - I have been thinking about value between 0.01 and 0.5uF (or even a higher value?).

I cannot understand what one component is for. It is the one in the crossover in the bass section and the values on it are: MEXICO, JND3, X60V, X075 - It looks like ceramic capacitor but measuring it I found out it has also resistance and inductance so it seems it is a resistor. Don't you know what is this component for and what should be its value?

Another question is for thiele/small parameters of the bass speaker I would like to change the bassreflex vent to get more bass under 100Hz as there is not much bass under 100Hz. Unfortunatelly I am unable to measure the parametres needed for this and I cannot find what driver is used. If you have any parameters of it or if you know the speaker used, i would be glad for any information.

The last thing is if you have some measurements of the whole speaker. I need mainly Voice-Coil Inductance value so I could improve the Zobel filter on my home made amplifier. It would be great if you woud have the inductance value for the both bass and tweeter part so I could make and optimized bi-amp, but I would be also happy for whole-system-value.

If you would be willing to help me I would be glad if I could write some review based on your advise so more pople who own these speakers could benefit from it. Thank you very much for any reply - Peter
Hi Andy and all Audiomodders,
I tried to PM Andy (Richmond) but I cannot get hold of him, so I will try to ask you all for an advice and I hope Andy will notice this question and let me know if he has any suggestions.

You should know that I have changed the capacitors for Clarity Cap SA which changed things a lot. There is much more soundstage and the trebless are much brighter so I am realy happy with the upper end. I also added parallel Vishay MKP1840 0.01uF to the 4.7cap with Vishay the speakers sounds a bit better but cannot say in what, it gives just more natural sound in my opinion (did anyone fiddled with this ore similar small cap?).

I also tried to use biwire connection with an amplifier what give sharper trebbles but in my opinion it could be coused by phase shift. You should know that the cables used were 5mm Soundlab for bass and Belken 1mm silver-coated in teflon for trebbles. I lenght of this two cables differ to match the resistance. The sound is a bit too sharp now (may be even harsh) so I maybe get back to the original connection. There is also the gap at about 4kHz removed and the upper end went up a bit (I suppose the gap was caused by old elcaps in bass CO part).

What bothers me know is the bass that is getting low under 100Hz quite a lot. Do you thing it is wise to replace the bassreflex port? I changed the inside dumping from whole space stuffing to the two sheets of sound absorbant stuffing at the back and up and one at the bottom, I left the foam rubber on all the walls under the sound absorbant. The sound with changed dumping is more punchy but with original version the bass is more tight and focused so I suppose it was done with that purpose.

I still also need to figure out the TS parametrest for the Zobel and need a help with identifiyng the reason of using the "mystery" part (measuring it it was 1ohm and 72uF so I suppose it is a resistor - still wondering about the capacity measured).
Thank you all for any suggestions given - Peter
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Old 1st January 2013, 11:43 AM   #14
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I currently have a Trent II and thinking about modding. I am wondering what happened to this project.
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Old 3rd January 2013, 03:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rattosecond View Post
I currently have a Trent II and thinking about modding. I am wondering what happened to this project.
Welcome. If you have questions, or are not sure what's best post a list of what you are planning, so other members have an insight of your idea and can help you with similar experience. (Also it's nice to know if you use measuring equip. or not.)
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Old 11th September 2013, 12:16 AM   #16
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Default What a find you are!

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Originally Posted by Richmond View Post

My forte is Castle Acoustics limited from 1976 2004 as their Design Engineer / Service Engineer / Quality Control / Production / Historian etc, I am also well acquainted with all Wharfedale Loudspeaker product prior to 1980.

One of these years I will put the history together of Castle Acoustics Limited, how it was founded, the links between, Bill Escott- the original Managing Director of Castle (He was the Managing Director of Wharfedale Extension Loudspeakers before Rank purchased them) likewise Brother Phil Escott who was head of the Service Department at Wharfedale. Yes you have guessed he passed all the servicing of early Wharfedale Product to Castle as we were literally the only company who could build/rebuild units on a one off bassis. Indeed in the early stages of Castle history there was many a shared component due to joint purchasing by Castle and Wharfedale - although I am not so sure that the powers of be knew at Wharfedale!

Hello Richmond

I have been trawling the net looking for an authority on Castle Speakers, and I eventually noted you.
I hope you are in good health and treating life well.
Your CV is impressive and interesting to me for several reasons.
a) I have been enjoying a pair of your Harlechs for fifteen years now - fabulous clear and refined sounds, mainly partnered with a Michell Gyrodec.
However, one of the front-facing Bass/Mid drivers has developed several radial cracks in the (White) cone, plus an inch of loose surround. not greatly affecting the sound at low levels, but Horrors! It will only get worse.

b) When I was a lad (1974), I studied up on speaker design and built a pair of 'Daline' speakers. (Damped Anti-resonant LINE - an HFN-published design) Flying in the face of accepted practice - you need a big cone to get bass - these used a Kef B110, a T27 & an STC4001G 'Super-tweeter'.
The sound was really spectacular, with bass extension AND great transient response. My mates at University could not believe them.
I kept them for ages, trying other speakers in shops up to well above my budget, but nothing short of a fortune would better my Dalines.
That was, until I auditioned a pair of Castle Pembrokes. Just what I needed to replace my worn-out boxes. Based on very similar principles.
I enjoyed them for a year, then heard the Harlechs; I part-exed the Pembrokes and went home a very happy chap!!

I am sure that you miss the Skipton company, as do all of us customers.
Without the spares, I am left with a few less than satisfactory options:
a) Try to find something equivalent from another manufacturer, within a budget. The Holy Grail might be an easier quest!
b) Fit Wilmslow Audio's proprietary units & hope they sound OK.
c) Buy a pair of Castles with the White drivers on EBay, and swap them in, hoping they last a bit longer.
d) Possibly buy a pair of Series 2 Castles with the carbon fibre drivers on EBay, and swap them in, hoping they are a reasonable match and sound as good as the originals. They would be younger and should last longer.
My preference is for c) or d) - naturally!! d) especially would be turning a disaster into an improvement.

My questions for you are:
How well will the carbon units fit into the sound spectrum?
Would the newer tweeters fit the same holes, and would they improve the sound?
If I fit new Carbon Bass units and new tweeters, what mods would I need to the crossovers to get the best/ Harlech 2 sound?
Which of the above would you recommend / do?
I realise that this is a marathon, and apologise if it is too time-consuming, but any light you can shed on this would be really appreciated.

Or, to paraphrase the immortal words of Princess Leia in Star Wars,
"Help me Obi-Wan Richmond - you are my only hope!!!"

Windswept.
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Old 11th September 2013, 12:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richmond View Post

My forte is Castle Acoustics limited from 1976 2004 as their Design Engineer / Service Engineer / Quality Control / Production / Historian etc, I am also well acquainted with all Wharfedale Loudspeaker product prior to 1980.

One of these years I will put the history together of Castle Acoustics Limited, how it was founded, the links between, Bill Escott- the original Managing Director of Castle (He was the Managing Director of Wharfedale Extension Loudspeakers before Rank purchased them) likewise Brother Phil Escott who was head of the Service Department at Wharfedale. Yes you have guessed he passed all the servicing of early Wharfedale Product to Castle as we were literally the only company who could build/rebuild units on a one off bassis. Indeed in the early stages of Castle history there was many a shared component due to joint purchasing by Castle and Wharfedale - although I am not so sure that the powers of be knew at Wharfedale!

Hello Richmond

I have been trawling the net looking for an authority on Castle Speakers, and I eventually noted you.
I hope you are in good health and treating life well.
Your CV is impressive and interesting to me for several reasons.
a) I have been enjoying a pair of your Harlechs for fifteen years now - fabulous clear and refined sounds, mainly partnered with a Michell Gyrodec.
However, one of the front-facing Bass/Mid drivers has developed several radial cracks in the (White) cone, plus an inch of loose surround. not greatly affecting the sound at low levels, but Horrors! It will only get worse.

b) When I was a lad (1974), I studied up on speaker design and built a pair of 'Daline' speakers. (Damped Anti-resonant LINE - an HFN-published design) Flying in the face of accepted practice - you need a big cone to get bass - these used a Kef B110, a T27 & an STC4001G 'Super-tweeter'.
The sound was really spectacular, with bass extension AND great transient response. My mates at University could not believe them.
I kept them for ages, trying other speakers in shops up to well above my budget, but nothing short of a fortune would better my Dalines.
That was, until I auditioned a pair of Castle Pembrokes. Just what I needed to replace my worn-out boxes. Based on very similar principles.
I enjoyed them for a year, then heard the Harlechs; I part-exed the Pembrokes and went home a very happy chap!!

I am sure that you miss the Skipton company, as do all of us customers.
Without the spares, I am left with a few less than satisfactory options:
a) Try to find something equivalent from another manufacturer, within a budget. The Holy Grail might be an easier quest!
b) Fit Wilmslow Audio's proprietary units & hope they sound OK.
c) Buy a pair of Castles with the White drivers on EBay, and swap them in, hoping they last a bit longer.
d) Possibly buy a pair of Series 2 Castles with the carbon fibre drivers on EBay, and swap them in, hoping they are a reasonable match and sound as good as the originals. They would be younger and should last longer.
My preference is for c) or d) - naturally!! d) especially would be turning a disaster into an improvement.

My questions for you are:
How well will the carbon units fit into the sound spectrum?
Would the newer tweeters fit the same holes, and would they improve the sound?
If I fit new Carbon Bass units and new tweeters, what mods would I need to the crossovers to get the best/ Harlech 2 sound?
Which of the above would you recommend / do?
I realise that this is a marathon, and apologise if it is too time-consuming, but any light you can shed on this would be really appreciated.

Or, to paraphrase the immortal words of Princess Leia in Star Wars,
"Help me Obi-Wan Richmond - you are my only hope!!!"

Windswept.
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Old 12th May 2014, 03:18 PM   #18
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Hi NTS & Richmond,

I am a big fan of Castle loudspeaker & Arcam equipments. I own Castle Warwick pair and later add Castle Trent 1 to my collection in early 200x. My Trent is similar to NTS's one, except the grid was glued to the front. Same as NTS, it was a bit too harsh for me if I listen to it only, and I found the way to enjoy it by direct both Castle pairs as my Arcam Delta 90 amp has two speakers output. Then luckily I found this thread. I did moved the woofer red wire to the next pin only as step by step mod (the next step could be swap wires of the tweeter as worrying of reverse pin). OMG now it voice became sweet, slight but good bass and treble, just like the Warwick brother as well as the other mini Castle (Isis, Richmond) I've heard. Great thanks to NTS! I hope you still keep this sweet mini monitor.
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