Help Me Choose project Please!

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This is a car audio tweeter, you can find a lot of information regarding the differences between car audio drivers and home hi-fi units. Just get a set of home tweeters, if you can afford more, you may choose the Peerless HDS tweeter as it can be crossed much lower than the XT25TG and is a superb unit. As far as I remember it retails for around 90 euro per pair ( I may be wrong about the price :) ).
 
Get the HDS or ring radiator tweeters, you will like them better. Car audio is made with too many compromises and is more oriented to durability and dust and moisture resistance but sound reproduction. Also, it limits the magnet system you could use and this will reflect in the sound. It`s also 4ohm so if you still prefer to go this way you will need the 18W/4531G00, not sure whether Evilukai has any. :)
 
Ok a maybe silly question but i need to know...i looked on what this guy sells and he mentioned that he has some Scanspeak clasic 18w kevlar woofers ... are these woofers worth looking at, costing 70euros each or not?..I mean that i ve already looked on 1-2 very attractive speaker designs using Seas CA18RLY and good friend Ronmeister suggested Zaph's "Seas L18 / Seas 27TBFCG" and "ZA-SR71" designs which also look very attractive..So i mean is it a really better woofer or just a bit better?.i ask that because these Designs i looked at, are compleet so is it worth to mess up with a design that i have to match a tweeter, to find out what cross i must use in what box etc...?
Everythink form the point of view of a newbie ok?! :D
I dont have too much spare time so i d like an easy project...For example, Jentzen and Solen offer the complete kit so with one purchase i have everythink i need. I say that this is important because it is very hard to find parts in Greece and if you find something, it is 3 times more expensive than on line shops..
 
If it's the 18W/8531G-00 that's offered at 70 Euros it is a very good deal and there are several designs available. Troels' SP 95 design or, yes again, Zaph's ZRT. The latter I had the pleasure of hearing a few months ago. It's a spectacular design. You can read up on the different experiments Zaph conducted on his ZRT page; quite fascinating - a shame he no longer contributes -.

My personal experience with this driver is unfortunately limited. I contributed to a design a while back. When experimenting with enclosures we found a 40 liter BR enclosure to harvest the best results, with a nice smooth roll-off. We paired it with the XT25 Vifa tweeter because we had a few of them available at the time.

Now then...

Keeping in mind your newbie status - and this is just my humble opinion - I'd go with one of the Seas designs we discussed earlier. As you correctly stated, you can get all the parts from Jentzen and there is enough technical back-up on this forum to assist should you get stuck. I for one will be happy to assist wherever I can.
 
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Carbon/Paper SS units have a little better bass response when compared to the equal size Revelator, the Revelator sounds better in the low midrange. Paper/Carbon woofers have a break up node which is not as nasty as the metal cones but might need a notch. Overal it is also a great midwoofer.
 
planet10 said:


Sounds even better if you can get the XO <400 Hz.

dave


Hi Dave, familiar territory :D

You may or (probably) may not remember our discussion about this a while ago in another thread (Fostex 108 small enclosure). I finished the cabinet-design with an aperiodic TL, about 28 cm long, with a volume of around 2.5 Liter. This aperiodic TL formed the top of the enclosure, the bottom contained the Peerless 830874 in a 14 Liter BR enclosure. The test cabinet - made of some pine I had left - :angel: sounded very (VERY) promising. The Fostex 108Se was L-padded only, no crossover needed, the Peerless was limited to < 300Hz, 3rd order. Unfortunately I had some health challenges which prevented me from fine-tuning the design and, for that matter, finishing my no-holds-barred Lowther design. Remember Shokokuji? I have 3 months leave coming up in 2010... that design HAS to be built (waaaaaaay off topic... sorry). As for the Fostex/Peerless design... no pictures... still stuck at sea!

Back to this thread, the above design may not be the best start for a newbie, hence my advice to go for a proven design with one-stop-shop benefits. Of course should sifis_samas want to go down this path I'd be more than happy to exchange my experience with him.
 
sifis_samos said:
Okay, now what if you had to choose between this kit:

http://www.solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue_kit_detail.php?idkit=16&g=1&kn=2+way+kits

and this kit:

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SEAS_CA18RLY-COMPACT.htm

The first uses Hi-Vi D6.8 woofer and Hi-Vi SS1II tweeter, all with Solen Crossover components, cost about 305 Euros including shipping from Canada to Greece.

The second uses Seas CA18RLY woofer and Seas 22TAF/G tweeter, all with Jantzen components. cost around 315 Euros including shipping from Denmark To Greece.

What would you think might perform better in terms of clarity,tonal balance, freq response and overal performance? does anyone have experience with these drivers?..


Hey homie,forget Canada and Denmark.
Here you are
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/brands.asp?ID2=100
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/brands.asp?ID2=2
Great prices,very low shipping costs,fast delivery.
ËåöôÜ íá'÷åéò íá øùíßæåéò.
 
Guys after a loong thinking and reading around i think i will go for the Seas L18 / Seas 27TBFCG pair....it seems very good option and i think that it matches my criteria...So i will look now to buy the parts i need and as soon as i have everything i need i will start building!!!..he he he...any wood suggestions?..i plan to use 22mm MDF that will be painted in high gloss varnish.Piano black its called right?..:smash:
 
0,5mH is ok, but 0,56mH will be better. Then using a multimeter you could unwind enough until it gets to 0,47mH. Tritec and Visaton coils are a good buy.
Use at least 25mm mdf, 22 is not enough ( anything under 40mm is not enough :D ). I would advise you to go and do a few listening sessions to loudspeakers that employ metal cone drivers before to order. Besides their bright sound, metal cones have a lot of disadvantages when compared to paper cones - they need steep crossover ( a lot of components which makes it expensive and hard phase shift alignment plus poor transient response ) and a notch to control the cone resonanse which also adds to the price.
You should easily find a Visaton retailer over there, their Al-series sound very close ( a little better ) to the Seas aluminum speakers.
 
sifis_samos said:
A small question..i dont seem to find 0.5mH easily, meaning L7 in zaphs design ( http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker17.html). 0.47mH Is ok or do i have to look for example for 0.56mH and unwid it a bit?..i dont have a L meter thats why i am asking

Sifis, I just visited Jantzen's website, they, as well as Madisound (but that's across the pond) have the 0.5mH you're looking for. That said: If you want to stick to your supplier you can go for the 0.47mH.

You've found a great design there, seemingly within your budget. I've only ever known "Zaph" to be very thorough and several of my friends and I have used his tests and evaluations to assist in choosing the direction of our projects. I have yet to disagree with his findings with regards to units. Zaph and I would disagree about Caps though...

Don't save on them! The values of Caps in this design are nice and low, making it easier (read - cheaper) to incorporate good performers; Clarity Cap SA's for example. After 25 years of speaker building I've formed the opinion that it does not pay to go on either side of the scale with this - too cheap as well as too expensive - .

I look forward to hearing about your progress!

kali tihi me to megafono :xeye:
 
Hello and thanks everybody for the valuable help..well i dont plan to save much on the cross components neither i ll buy the most expensive of them.i dont think it is too nessesary to buy the best for that price target project right?..
Well i will buy everything from www.bmm-electronics.com and the only think i seem to find expensive is the 2.2mH coil. It seems that in order to have 2.20mH - 0.30Ohm the only suitable is this one : http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5351 but it costs 35.55e a piece! more expensive than the tweeter...would it be a great diference if i use for example this: Ferrite core coil 2.20mH 0.23Ohm 1.32mm
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5470
..as for caps i am looking to something like this: AUDYN-CAP KP-QS foil capacitor 4.7uF 400V - http://www.bmm-electronics.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=4852
 
This is the part list i plan to order.(Everything x2)
Any comments welcome:

Seas L18RNX/P 6.5" woofer - 63.41 Euro
Seas 27TBFC/G 1" tweeter - 32.66 Euro
Intertechnik Air core coil 0.1mH 0.14Ohm 1mm - 2.70 Euro
Intertechnik Air core coil 0.56mH 0.42Ohm 1mm - 3.45 Euro
Intertechnik Ferrite core coil 2.20mH 0.23Ohm 1.32mm - 10.88 Euro
AUDYN-CAP KP-QS foil capacitor 4.7uF 400V 19 x 36mm - 2.16 Euro
AUDYN-CAP KP-QS foil capacitor 6.8uF 630V 27 x 46mm - 3.35 Euro
Metalfilm resistor 3.30R 10W 2% - 1.46 Euro
Metalfilm resistor 3.90R 10W 2% - 1.46 Euro


my only thought is if Ferrite core coil 2.20mH is ok..it costs 10.88 Euros while the aircore one costs 30e+ ...

Total cost of parts is around 273 Euros plus about 30 Euro shipping, so totat around 300e.....exactly in my budget.... If you think that i can make a small change within parts at max +- 20-30 euro please feel free to comment...only from whats available at BMM electronics..
 
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