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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 25th July 2009, 04:45 PM   #1
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Default Custom speakers

hi,

For school I am building a custom speaker enclosure.

I am really after general tips, I have taken screen shots of my designs.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...peakersiso.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...ofspeakers.jpg

I need to know how to seal enclosure, and any other essential things I must do.
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Old 25th July 2009, 05:04 PM   #2
mikje is offline mikje  United States
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delichick,
You can seal it by making sure the joints are tight and true and then using some sort of silicone sealant such as RTV on them and speaker gaskets or sealant around the speakers. When they are playing, you shouldn't feel air being pushed out of any seems, which is usually noticeable during bass notes if it's happenning.
Other than that, I'd say make sure your baffles and the rest of the enclosure is heavy/dense/thick enough to be completely rigid as the speakers are playing.
Others on this forum know a lot more, so hopefully they'll be chiming in soon.
Best wishes on your project !
Mike
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Old 25th July 2009, 08:07 PM   #3
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Default Re: Custom speakers

Quote:
Originally posted by delichick
hi,

For school I am building a custom speaker enclosure.

I am really after general tips, I have taken screen shots of my designs.
You can make the curved ends with kerf-cut MDF. Some experimentation on kerf spacing to get your desired radius without breaking may be required. You don't have dimensions listed - if small enough I'd probably try to use a single piece of MDF for the top/bottom with a joint at the apex and just build a bigger table saw sled to support the work when kerf-cutting. If that got too awkward three pieces of MDF would be my choice - a pair which run from the apex arround to the enclosure dividers on the bottom with one between them. With three pieces that need to match cut them without moving your table saw fence so they're exactly the same, and trim the center piece to fit (you can use plastic or brass shim stock against a stop on your cross cut sled to incrementally knock .005-.010" off at a time). I'd make the front and back over-sized by 1/8th inches and trim to fit using a router and flush trim bit.

Quote:
I need to know how to seal enclosure, and any other essential things I must do.
Good joints with yellow wood glue will be air tight. Foam weather stripping around the drivers.
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Old 25th July 2009, 09:43 PM   #4
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just go translam... so much easier IMO.. and you will get a better end result...
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Old 26th July 2009, 03:08 PM   #5
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thanks for the replies so far. I'm new to the whole speaker thing as this is my first build, so I might need things in lamens terms

dimentions are 1.2 meters long, the curved ends have a diameter of 150mm, and the apex it 200mm tall. about 200mm deep.

front and back panels are vic ash (hardwood) along with the dividers.

the clear section will be perspex.

I would love more detail about the sealing arounf the speakers.

as the design is see through, everything as so not be an 'eye sore'.
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Old 26th July 2009, 03:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by trusound
just go translam... so much easier IMO.. and you will get a better end result...
please explain translam and IMO.
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Old 26th July 2009, 03:08 PM   #7
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also if it is important I have bought the speakers from jaycar, specifically models CS 2370 x2 and CS2372 (in the jaycar catalog p. 278 and 395 respectively).

both are manufactured by response precision.
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Old 27th July 2009, 03:00 AM   #8
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Here one of the trans lam (trans lamination)
And yet another trans lam for a friend.
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Old 27th July 2009, 03:15 AM   #9
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How did you decide on those drivers, and the box volume? -
frankly, they aren't a good combination (co-ax car speakers - you'll end up with comb filtering and little bass),
and are expensive.

I'd go for CW2196 + CT2005, and ask here for help with the crossover + box size (50L ); you'll end up with a much better sounding & cheaper set of speakers...
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Old 27th July 2009, 12:23 PM   #10
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I usually use some PVA glue to seal the box - just run it around on the inside where the panels meet. If you want it to look nicer, use PVA glue, then, when it's still wet, get some damp kitchen roll, and go along it, so you'll get a 1/4 circle effect.

Around the speakers, a foam gasket works well, or, if it's permanent, silicone will do the job (just make sure it stays where it should).

I think I've missed something here - no drivers were mentionned.

For drivers, I'd advise Visaton (fairly cheap, reasonable sound), but it all depends on budget.

Chris
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