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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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thankyou andrew...if DIY means FREE FREE
if i am going to learn it will cost over the years,R&D Chris was a nice person,also the ONLY retailer for ATC&VOLT drivers i North America
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thanks John |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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With your apparent goals in mind, the best route for you to go is probably active.
The fact you've got/are going to have all those nice power amps makes this a lot simpler as well. One benefit of going active is that any sensitivity mismatches become academic. If you're aiming for a system that will deliver good SPLs whilst remaining dynamic, the last thing you want is to waste power into any resistors required for level matching. With an active system you merely adjust the gain of the line level crossover. There are many virtues to be had by going all active and as there are many websites that have already listed them, I wont bother doing so here. If you were to use an appropriately designed active crossover using a WWMTM, I'd be surprised if it didn't get you where you wanted to be. If this didn't satisfy then the only route would be pro audio drivers. I'd recommend using either of the 300 watt amps to drive a pair of the volt bass drivers. The remaining 300 watt amp to drive the paralleled mid domes and then the 100 watt Levinson on the tweeters. Keep a 4th order LWR acoustic at around 400hz for the bass to mid crossover. Then you're going to want to use the lowest possible frequency that the SS9700 will handle to minimise any lobing created by using the MTM. I'd suggest around 2000hz 4th order acoustic if you really want to hammer them. Make sure to use a properly configured delay stage(s) to electrically time align the tweeter and the mids. Make sure to properly compensate for baffle step. Buy a Behringer ECM8000 microphone and a suitable microphone pre amplifier. Download http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/ and learn how to use it. This will let you take measurements of your drive units, this is paramount to achieving a good design. You're going to need to acquire some software that will allow you to import the data from the measurements you make and allow you to simulate an active crossover based on these. I also recommend you buy a http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/DCX2496.aspx This box isn't the final word when it comes to quality, but its dirt cheap for what it does. It's a digital sound processor that will allow you to make a 3 way stereo active crossover. I don't know the full capabilities of the DCX but loads of people have used it here on DIYaudio, so there will be enough people to answer any questions you might have about using it. For example, I know the DCX interfaces with a PC, but I don't know the capabilities of the software. Can it be used to take measurements? Can it import measurements you've made with ARTA and arrive at a target acoustic slope? Can it import a transfer function I've designed in LspCAD? Either way the DCX will allow you to easily experiment with different crossovers at the touch of a button. Once you have come up with a crossover you're happy with, then there are much more expensive DSP units that can do the same thing for better quality. Or alternatively you could build an analogue active crossover based on what you arrived at with the DSP, should the digital version be simple enough. http://www.linkwitzlab.com/filters.htm Has a lot of information on active crossovers.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
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thank you for your time
john
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thanks John |
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