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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Hello all.
I was just wondering if anyone here has done the Russ Andrews Crossover upgrade? http://www.russandrews.com/product-C...r-Kit-1224.htm I have some BR5's and would like to make them in to Active so I'm guessing this is a good way of doing it by by-passing the existing crossover? I'm a total nooby here so any help and/or advice would be great. Many Thanks! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Nice site, but man those prices
Anyway, if going active you dont need any caps I have no idea why you link to those caps, when you say you want active xo Those caps are for passive xo experiments You will need to disconnect the passive xo completely Even if you could bypass it, there would still be actice paralel components Whats a BR5 speaker? What exactly do you mean by active? Just to make sure we talk the same language |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Hello Tinitus.
Thanks for your reply... I was under the impression that an active xo is a line feed directly from each amplifier, but I also assumed that you need some kind of contol (but not a full blown passive xo card) - of which I thought these caps were just that. Maybe I'm confused here!.. lol - I would like to go fully active in my set-up.. so, does this mean a pure line feed to each speaker without any resistance? BR5's are Monitor Audio, 3-way floorstanders btw... Cheers! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Below is simplified layout
There are several ways to do it Simple pro filter need not be expencive Amps need not be very big either Hypex makes new 2way plate amps with digital filter There will also be a seperate digital filter unit, which probably works as preamp too Actually I think the plate amps can be remote controlled too If so it may only need a source like a CD connected But that may not be as easy as it sounds I have a friend who tried a very expencive dbqx, or whatever its called He never managed to make it work properly Properly due to lack of knowledge about speaker/crossover design Im in doubt how to judge your situation as you seem to have slightly limited knowledge about how a speaker works If not done properly it may not be any improvement, or even make it worse I would suggest to try it with a "simple" bigger 2way design with new drivers |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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ringo. Peace & Love. What are your speakers. What are you hooping to achieve by going active? As tinitus shows you will need a separate amp for each drive unit, presumably just bass & treble.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Thanks Tinitus. - Peace and Love, Peace and Love Puffin!
My current set up is a total monoblock affair. I have 4 Musical Fidelity monoblock amps two of each driving the bass and treble indipendently. I am looking to get a more controlled sound, my speakers are Monitor Audio BR5's of which have their limitations, granted... But they also have a crossover and of which I think the sound could be getting comprimised by, (let alone the internal wiring) So, I'm looking in to an active crossover. But I do have limited knowledge in this subject, that is for sure. I recieved a Russ Andrews catalogue and (I thought) they said that bypassing the speakers crossover with simply one or two caps (depending on 2 or 3-way config) could improve the sound. Now, this to me sounded ace...! - A worthy experiment to a person like me who likes to be curious. - Even though I'm allergic to cats! Thanks to Tinitus - I now agree, I must have miss-read the article, these are for upgrades to existing xo's... Glad thats sorted! Getting back to the task in hand.. I've read some things about active xo's and heard that they are better than passive... Better stage, better definition etc.. How complicated are these xo's? And is there a general type people use? I understand the basics, that each speaker is driven directly from the active xo.. It's just knowledge about the actual active xo that I'm fuzzy on. It's construction, cost etc. Cheers fellas! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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I see that a BR5 has a 131mm bass unit and a 131 mm bass/mid ,might not be so simple to activate it.You might be better off upgrading the passive crossover components but this might cost more than the speakers are worth.
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#8 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
Quote:
Which means that you have double speaker terminal At least that is useful Two similar 5", one bass and other mid, could indicate that its realle a 2.5 way That means that both wooers play the same bass, but only upper one plays mids If its a 2.5way, you only need 2way active, and you already have your amps for that Well, I just looked and they clearly says 2.5way So, active 2way is the option Either leave the passive inductor between the two woofers Or a pure 2way active without the inductor, and both woofers in paralel Then theres BSC to deal with It means either attenuation of above300hz estimated Or it means amplififying whats below 300hz Your present 2.5way configuration is more like amplifying below 300hz, due to exstra woofer With a pure 2way with woofers in paralel, you would need attenuation of above 300hz, preferably through digital EQ Whether there will be any significant advantage is hard to say And your crossover will need to be looked at closer You will probably need to solder and such A design like this could be very good as passive And not the obvious choise for active Mind you, biamping like you do is not always the better choise either |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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