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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: No. Utah
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I would be indebted to see pictures of your input terminal boards on your finished speakers, to help me decide what to employ on my own.
TIA!
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Jimbo "Television is the poor man's whiskey." Russel Baker |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
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I don't think this is quite what you're after as it's not yet installed on a finished speaker, but I had it to hand. 2 sets of connections, for active midrange and tweeter with 6db filter for protection. Large connection plate, did have foam sealing gasket but I didn't want it in this application, mounted my "crossover" board with threaded nylon hex standoffs and bolts
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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inputs pic
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: No. Utah
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Thanks! Keep em comin!
Your pictures are requested in case something catches my fancy to replace the current plan to cut a hole fitting the ubiquitous large plastic terminal cup, about 3.5 x 4.25". Only because of a cosmetic aversion to the plastic cups, an MDF terminal board of 1/2 or 3/4" thickness will be attached to the inside rear panel. Will shortly post a picture of the binding posts employed on my favorite OEM standmount speakers, toward the goal of discovering the binding post brand & model. Thanks again for your help.
__________________
Jimbo "Television is the poor man's whiskey." Russel Baker |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Cascais
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(This) Also look nice
http://www.visaton.de/en/chassis_zub...ehoer/277.html |
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