bose parameters 4" 8 ohm
hi, I was intrested in constructing 2 towers with 26 bose 8 ohm spkrs. in each, wired series for my homemade circletron amp. I didn't know there was such a thing as an "800" bose until I built one by taking out the front speaker, plugging the hole, flipping them around, then standing them up on edge. Also, removing the grille cloth helps the high end in these which are series 2s with the heavy tweed material. I've have re-wired them into series arrangement, giving 64 ohms, but still need to match approx 200 ohm amp, so 26 elements arranged in pairs 13 high should give me 208 ohms...I will be adding ribbon tweeters with simple .47mfd caps per side, and two 18" EV-300 spkrs for subs, thru a single inductor/resistor cross. I need to know the volume required per speaker for a small cabinet for each speaker, piled up in columns, with exposed terminals for wiring all in series. I will be able to change the configuration of the system with simple re-arrangements of the similiar sized boxes, to apprise the best format, then screw them together with a brace system on the back. I want individual boxes for each spkr for another reason too....anytime you have more than one open-back speaker in an enclosure, the sound will hit you from the fronts ok, but what about the sound coming out of the back of each speaker, then ending up coming out of the adjoining speaker? Wouldn't this cause a smearing of the waveforms of the music? I figure I'll load up the boxes with plenty of absorbing material, to make the boxes themselves as minimally reflective as possible. So I need 34 more 8 ohm spkrs to go along with the 18 I have to get the 52 for the column pair. anyone out there have 34 extra speakers to sell/trade ? I suppose I could calculate the volume of the regular enclosure and then divide by 9, but I imagine it's not that simple....a QTS/VAS theil-small parameters is probably needed to do this. Any help would be appreciated. thanks, midmoe
hi, I was intrested in constructing 2 towers with 26 bose 8 ohm spkrs. in each, wired series for my homemade circletron amp. I didn't know there was such a thing as an "800" bose until I built one by taking out the front speaker, plugging the hole, flipping them around, then standing them up on edge. Also, removing the grille cloth helps the high end in these which are series 2s with the heavy tweed material. I've have re-wired them into series arrangement, giving 64 ohms, but still need to match approx 200 ohm amp, so 26 elements arranged in pairs 13 high should give me 208 ohms...I will be adding ribbon tweeters with simple .47mfd caps per side, and two 18" EV-300 spkrs for subs, thru a single inductor/resistor cross. I need to know the volume required per speaker for a small cabinet for each speaker, piled up in columns, with exposed terminals for wiring all in series. I will be able to change the configuration of the system with simple re-arrangements of the similiar sized boxes, to apprise the best format, then screw them together with a brace system on the back. I want individual boxes for each spkr for another reason too....anytime you have more than one open-back speaker in an enclosure, the sound will hit you from the fronts ok, but what about the sound coming out of the back of each speaker, then ending up coming out of the adjoining speaker? Wouldn't this cause a smearing of the waveforms of the music? I figure I'll load up the boxes with plenty of absorbing material, to make the boxes themselves as minimally reflective as possible. So I need 34 more 8 ohm spkrs to go along with the 18 I have to get the 52 for the column pair. anyone out there have 34 extra speakers to sell/trade ? I suppose I could calculate the volume of the regular enclosure and then divide by 9, but I imagine it's not that simple....a QTS/VAS theil-small parameters is probably needed to do this. Any help would be appreciated. thanks, midmoe
MidMoe,
I apologies in advance for being rude and snarky, but here are a few tips if you want even the slightest hope of getting a response -
1.) Paragraphs and lots of them. Trust me on this one, keep each relevant thought to a concise isolate paragraph.
2.) Punctuation and Capitalization - it will take you a long way in the world of communication.
3.) Fewer words of more relevance. Lots of what you are saying makes no logical sense. Though that could be because you haven't explained why it does make logical sense. Why would anyone wire 26 speakers in Series? Where on earth would anyone get a 200 ohm amps and why would they want one?
4.) Cut the crap and get to the good stuff. Less What and more Why. What is the logic, goal, and philosophy behind building speakers in this particular manner. Why not copy a proven existing design?
Given the difficulty and confusion in attempting to read your post, I don't see you getting lot of responses until you reposted it in an easier to read format that explains why you would make such unusual choices.
I told you at the start I was going to be nasty, but I'm doing it for a point. The more clear and pointed your request, the more likely you are to get a response.
Sorry.
Steve/BlueWizard
I apologies in advance for being rude and snarky, but here are a few tips if you want even the slightest hope of getting a response -
1.) Paragraphs and lots of them. Trust me on this one, keep each relevant thought to a concise isolate paragraph.
2.) Punctuation and Capitalization - it will take you a long way in the world of communication.
3.) Fewer words of more relevance. Lots of what you are saying makes no logical sense. Though that could be because you haven't explained why it does make logical sense. Why would anyone wire 26 speakers in Series? Where on earth would anyone get a 200 ohm amps and why would they want one?
4.) Cut the crap and get to the good stuff. Less What and more Why. What is the logic, goal, and philosophy behind building speakers in this particular manner. Why not copy a proven existing design?
Given the difficulty and confusion in attempting to read your post, I don't see you getting lot of responses until you reposted it in an easier to read format that explains why you would make such unusual choices.
I told you at the start I was going to be nasty, but I'm doing it for a point. The more clear and pointed your request, the more likely you are to get a response.
Sorry.
Steve/BlueWizard
200 ohm output impedance on a power amplifier? 52 speakers? Something doesn't sound right in all that.
Midmoe, why do you want to report his post? He's correct. it's hard to read your post. It's all clumped together in one big mish/mash.
@Inductor, unfortunately I got divorced last year, and had to move, so the unfixed Bose speakers had to go. I just had too much stuff to take and no room to fit it in my new much smaller apartment.
Midmoe, why do you want to report his post? He's correct. it's hard to read your post. It's all clumped together in one big mish/mash.
@Inductor, unfortunately I got divorced last year, and had to move, so the unfixed Bose speakers had to go. I just had too much stuff to take and no room to fit it in my new much smaller apartment.
midmoe, Mr. Moderator here. You'll note the report post button is red triangle under your name. No need to use it here as Steve has outlined some good points no matter how they were delivered or how they were received.
I too am interested in your project but I can't quite get a handle on the methods. I can almost guarantee you will get better results if you ask the questions in a less cluttered manner and perhaps one or two questions per post starting at the top.
I too am interested in your project but I can't quite get a handle on the methods. I can almost guarantee you will get better results if you ask the questions in a less cluttered manner and perhaps one or two questions per post starting at the top.
I warned you in my post that it was not going to come off nicely. Also notice I started with an APOLOGY. But I stand by what I said. I want you to get responses, but the post as it is, will get few to none.
But the fact is, people ARE interested in your project, if they could only make heads or tails of it.
Repost in a more structured form with more relevant information and the discussion of your subject will start with enthusiasm.
Sorry if you are offended, but the art of communication is an ART.
Also, I'm curious if the Bose drivers really are Bose drivers or are they just small full-range drivers? And where did you manage to get 52 Bose drivers and how MUCH did they cost?
Also, 200 ohm power amp, that definitely requires some explanation.
Just post again, fill in some of the blanks and people will be happy to help you out.
Steve/bluewizard
But the fact is, people ARE interested in your project, if they could only make heads or tails of it.
Repost in a more structured form with more relevant information and the discussion of your subject will start with enthusiasm.
Sorry if you are offended, but the art of communication is an ART.
Also, I'm curious if the Bose drivers really are Bose drivers or are they just small full-range drivers? And where did you manage to get 52 Bose drivers and how MUCH did they cost?
Also, 200 ohm power amp, that definitely requires some explanation.
Just post again, fill in some of the blanks and people will be happy to help you out.
Steve/bluewizard
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Mr. moderator. I am sorry I have added too many details to my postings. I meant well, and presumed that if a person wasn't intrested in my post, they would ignore it. I am not attempting to see how many responses I can get, only qualified responses of people who are at least vaguely aware of circlotron technology, and if not, going to the search engine to review my posts which are a running dialogue on the how, what and why of the matter. Plus there is good information generally available on the net much better than mine. This is what I do when faced with something in a post I don't understand... Perhaps this is a good time to review my posts under the "low power circlotron tube amp" and "impedance measurement" threads, plus others. I really don't mind being criticized, but using language like "cut the c**p" , and having the moderator seem to find this acceptable language is regrettable. Isn't there an onus in this site against profanity? Midmoe
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Why spend time and money in something that will not give you good sound? if you think Bose speakers are good...well you are mistaken like many "washed brain" people that because they see the name Bose they will get the best sound ever. Sorry to be so rude in my post, but it is true! You can build a real full range speakers or buy them spending less money. Stay away from Bose. 
PS: Those 4 1/4 "wide range"...That is what they call them lol...Those cheap drivers will NEVER get to 20khz.
PS: Those 4 1/4 "wide range"...That is what they call them lol...Those cheap drivers will NEVER get to 20khz.
But I am interested in your project as are others. I started my post with a warning and a apology. I was trying to help.
The advise is standard advice for anyone posting on the Internet.
Now, if you would give us a better explanation, I'm sure people would be more than happy to help you as those who have posted do seem interested.
As to 'cut the crap' that was the turn of a common phrase. Though in hindsight perhaps not the best choice of words.
As to the Moderator, I suspect he was looking at the greater context and not on a small turn of a phrase. And 'crap' while less that polite, it certainly not profanity.
So, now the best course, is to focus on explaining the project, and take it from there.
Sorry if you are upset, but best to focus on the project and move the discussion forward.
Steve/bluewizard
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The Bose 901 never fails to bring folks together....albeit sometimes to argue, fuss and fight.
Your design sounds very interesting but unless there is an advantage to using the Bose drivers like price or availability, I'd definitely use something else. The FullRange world is ever expanding, quality going up and price coming down. With Tweeter and Woofer support you are really looking for more of an extended range mid which most FullRange drivers really are when measured.
I need to investigate this circletron amp and check out some of your other posts.
Your design sounds very interesting but unless there is an advantage to using the Bose drivers like price or availability, I'd definitely use something else. The FullRange world is ever expanding, quality going up and price coming down. With Tweeter and Woofer support you are really looking for more of an extended range mid which most FullRange drivers really are when measured.
I need to investigate this circletron amp and check out some of your other posts.
That's why I asked in one of my previous posts if MidMoe already had the drivers and whether they were genuine Bose or merely Bose like drivers. And of course what he did or what he will pay for them.
Depending on the budget, Dayton Reference Series makes 3" and 4" full range. From memory the 4" go down to about 100hz
Dayton Audio RS75T-8 3" Reference Full-Range Driver Truncate 295-336
Dayton Audio RS100-8 4" Reference Full-Range Driver 295-352
Tang Band also makes several nice full range speakers, or as full range as it is possible for a small speaker like that to be -
Tang Band W3-881SJF 3" Full Range Speaker 264-911
Tang Band W3-593SF 3" Full Range Silver Cone Driver 264-809
Tang Band W4-1052SD 4" Driver 4 Ohm 264-828
Tang Band W4-1052SDF 4" Full Range Speaker 264-913
Lastly I think we are all curious about you choice for that particular speaker design, and the unusual amp you mentioned.
Also, at a reasonably $20 each, 52 speakers are going to cost $1040, not to mention everything else you will need to support them. Are you sure that is the best way to spend over $1000?
Again, with no clear explanation as to the What and Why of this design, it is hard to give any productive advice.
Just a few thoughts.
Steve/bluewizard
Depending on the budget, Dayton Reference Series makes 3" and 4" full range. From memory the 4" go down to about 100hz
Dayton Audio RS75T-8 3" Reference Full-Range Driver Truncate 295-336
Dayton Audio RS100-8 4" Reference Full-Range Driver 295-352
Tang Band also makes several nice full range speakers, or as full range as it is possible for a small speaker like that to be -
Tang Band W3-881SJF 3" Full Range Speaker 264-911
Tang Band W3-593SF 3" Full Range Silver Cone Driver 264-809
Tang Band W4-1052SD 4" Driver 4 Ohm 264-828
Tang Band W4-1052SDF 4" Full Range Speaker 264-913
Lastly I think we are all curious about you choice for that particular speaker design, and the unusual amp you mentioned.
Also, at a reasonably $20 each, 52 speakers are going to cost $1040, not to mention everything else you will need to support them. Are you sure that is the best way to spend over $1000?
Again, with no clear explanation as to the What and Why of this design, it is hard to give any productive advice.
Just a few thoughts.
Steve/bluewizard
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