Can't quite decide on a woofer...

[retroman]

Hi all,

I'm planning on building a set of large 3-way floorstanding speakers using some 10" woofers in sealed enclosures. I've been pouring over driver specs now until my head is spinning but have narrowed down my choices to the models below. Although I can't quite decide. All these different types of cone materials (paper, poly, carbon fiber) has got me wondering how different their sound may be alongside one another. Maybe I'm just thinking too much. If anyone has any advice, opinions, or experience with these models I'd sure appreciate hearing from you. Thanks! Retroman


Morel MW1075
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-045

Aurum Cantus AC-250F1
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=296-430

Aurum Cantus AC-250MKII
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=296-434

Usher 1001B
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=296-624

Peerless SLS 830668
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1705

[JoshuaTechnomage]

About where are you looking to crossover from the bass driver? What are the other drivers in your system?

[roger_lew]

Here are working links.

Morel MW1075
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-045

Aurum Cantus AC-250F1
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=296-430

Aurum Cantus AC-250MKII
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=296-434

Usher 1001B
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=296-624

Peerless SLS 830668
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1705

[5th element]

Originally posted by JoshuaTechnomage
About where are you looking to crossover from the bass driver? What are the other drivers in your system?

As Joshua said, as this is important.

If the system is going to be active then driver sensitivity just flies out of the window. However if it's passive it'd be wise to try and get the sensitivities to match and that could be the determining factor more then anything else.

Do remember about bafflestep, in that you will most likely require the bass sensitivity to be ~5dB higher then the midrange, otherwise you will need to pad down the mids.

At a glance the drivers appear to require quite a variation in box sizes, so what limits do you have there? If you need to parallel bass drivers to make up for the sensitivity loss of baffle step, this may become the dominating factor.

Then the crossover frequency, if you're aiming low (~200hz) , then driver quality isn't as important, then if you were wanting to cross around ~800hz.

[901Fixer]

An easier approach would be to find a large floorstanding design you like and then use the drivers it calls for, there are quite a few here and links to many more. This way the design and driver combination has already been figured out and works.
That is unless you are as interested in designing and building your own creation. Since the most important aspect of the end rusult to me is a design and combination that sounds superb I prefer to go with a proven approach and will leave my own ideas on hold until I have a much better understanding of the whole process. If you feel compelled to come up with something of your own then by all means go for it just run your ideas by the folks here to make sure you are not making any obvious mistakes.

[retroman]

Hi all,

Thanks for your replies.

RogerLew - not sure why my links went dead, sure glad you fixed them though!

JoshuaTechnomage - I was thinking about using the VIFA D75MX-41-08 3" dome midrange which I think would crossover pretty smoothly with any of these woofers. I haven't selected a tweeter yet.

Also, I have also figured EBP on each of the models and they all seem to be well suited to sealed enclosures of which I have always been a fan.

5th Element - I have no experience with ballflestep. Yes, I may need to pad down the mid and tweeter. I do not have any size limit. I'd aim to build the enclosures as big as needed to get the lowest possible bass response but not so big where the cone unloads at higher volumes. I noticed that the Morel MW1075 had the biggest Xmax with 4.25mm.

901 Fixer - I have been browsing plans quite a bit but none I've found are large 3-way sealed box designs. Can you supply a link or two?


Again, I really appreciate hearing from you guys.

Retroman

[Dr.EM]

The Peerless looks like it might be most useable to me. Has a smooth frequency response (I actually saw a project on here with the 12" unit in a 2 way), the largest xmax of +/-8mm and distortion reducing shorting ring.

The Usher is sure to give good sound, thier woofers have some of the lowest distortion as measured by Zaph, but this unit has a bit of a response peak which may be hard to work with.

I'd avoid the Morel personally. I have some smaller units of this style by them and I must say I felt lucky to only be using them for subwoofers! The midrange sounded very peaky to me. Noisy motor system on mine too, though less of an issue in sealed perhaps.

[5th element]

Originally posted by retroman
I have no experience with ballflestep.

http://sound.westhost.com/bafflestep.htm

Building a three way isn't easy and I would strongly recommend you build an established design.

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Lou...r_Projects.htm

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/

http://www.rjbaudio.com/projects.html

http://www.zaphaudio.com/

All contain numerous designs, if not strictly to your criteria.

One other option would be to build a smaller speaker and add in a sub to cover the last ~two octaves.

I would however strongly advocate that you do stick with a three way as these, when well designed, bring about very worthwhile performance gains.

[Dr.EM]

retroman, in response to your message (I'd prefer to post here so others can correct me if wrong!):

The Xmax on the peerless is measured honestly. You can check this with some simple maths. For an overhung driver like this, take the voice coil height (24mm), subtract the gap height (8mm) and you are left with 16mm. This is halved to give 8mm linear travel each way for the Peerless driver. Most drivers are specced like this, which is the most honest (non exaggerated) way to give Xmax, but you are right that some will use peak to peak values or Xmech in place (which is the mechanical limit, not the linear range)


Here is the 2 way project if you want to take a look. I mentioned it for the fact it shows the woofer should have a nice smooth response:

Fast, fun, Inexpensive OB project


Be sure to give those links posted by 5th element a read through too

[901Fixer]

Although I've seen a few designs I can't remember how I found them or what the title of the thread or link was. Maybe post a new thread describing what exactly you want to build so those that have actually built a particular design can comment and give suggestions.
There seems to be so much more to this speaker designing hobby than even the best computer program can give you. This site has some very dedicated members whom have vast knowledge of things Hi-Fi and experience with practical applications so the unforeseen pit-falls are less likely.

Good luck with whatever you decide to build and post pics as you go.