454Casull said:F3 is the frequency where the response is -3dB relative to the nominal sensitivity.
OK thank's 🙂
As 454 has stated F3 is the frequency where the response has fallen by 3dB or half power. F6 and F10 are also sometimes used and these are -6 and -10dB respectively.oaristys said:Can u learn me something 🙂 ?
I always calculate the SPL with dp 1w 1m. But sometime, i see f3 or other "f" value. What does it meen ?
And please gentleman, don't use abbreviation because i'm french and i don't understand it :s
Thank's and i appreciate your help !
Speakers vary in impedance, both in the nominal rating of the speaker, ie it's a 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker, and also each speaker will vary a lot in impedance at different frequencies.oaristys said:and what is the difference between 1w 1m and 2.8v/1m
2.83V is 1W across an 8 ohm resistor so is a constant and the real sensitivity can be calculated if the impedance is known, at least the nominal impedance.
Lots of companies play games with the sensitivity figures and just give a number like 88dB or 92dB which can be misleading. For example, the Proac you mentioned says 92dB/W/m. As it is a 4 ohm speaker, that would mean that the voltage across it's terminals was 2V, which is 1W into 4 ohms.
They could have been slightly misleading and stated it is 95dB/2.83V/1m which non technical readers might think meant the speaker is more sensitive than another. But 2.83V across 4 ohms is 2W, not 1W.
Still present. That is not exactly a small speaker.oaristys said:Wow, the ProAc D100 is 92db 1w 1m sensitive with response 20-20000hz !!!
Hoffman where are you !?
Brett said:Still present. That is not exactly a small speaker. [/B]
So i think i can answer to the original post question. "Yes, the quality of the driver is important and will affect the result"
The ProAc do good efficiency with good bass and with a deep bass output. The volume is about 8 cu feet if my memory is good. I can't do 25hz at 89db with mtm configuration with less than 75$ drivers in this volume range. All the DIY project i found is for bigger enclosure, less efficiency, more xpensive driver or all of this.
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The use of quality drive units as a basis for a qua;ity speaker was never a question in my mind.oaristys said:
So i think i can answer to the original post question. "Yes, the quality of the driver is important and will affect the result"
The UK prices I've googled for the Proacs are in the order of UKP15-16000 and there are few DIY speakers that hit that sort of expense level, an amount I hardly see you spending when you thought the AE was expensive compared to a Selenium. I also doubt you are going to get anywhere near the quality of the Proac in an MTM for $75 especially as the ATC mids retail for about UKP350 ea.oaristys said:The ProAc do good efficiency with good bass and with a deep bass output. The volume is about 8 cu feet if my memory is good. I can't do 25hz at 89db with mtm configuration with less than 75$ drivers in this volume range. All the DIY project i found is for bigger enclosure, less efficiency, more xpensive driver or all of this.
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Proac spec for an FR to 20Hz, but give no +/-dB. The surrounds on the LF drivers look like they might be good for 6mm or so, so they may well do 20Hz, just not very loud.
I can't see a way to achieve what you want; 20-20k in a reasonable, if large box (say <300L) with highish efficiency and cheap drivers. Especially as you want to use a single tube amp for whatever reason.
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