Need recomendations for 3-5" midrange driver?

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I am looking for a midrange driver to comlete a cabinet project. I'm looking for a driver that aproximates the following specs as close as possible. 3" to 5" driver @ 8 Ohms, SPL as close to 89.3 as possible with as flat a frequincy response range between 2500HZ through 4000HZ as possible and with as flat a resistance range between 2500HZ through 4000HZ as possible.

Not asking for much am I?
 
For that kind of range might a dome midrange be better? Something like the Morel MDM-55 fits your required spec quite well, may need some attenuation. The Monacor (TangBand clone) DM-75TB could work if it must be 3" minimum, but needs more padding.

If you prefer a cone, the Seas MCA15RCY might work. It's quite large to cross this high though.
 
planet10 said:
Do you mean 250 Hz -- 4k? (Fostex FE103 would be good)

2.5-4k would be a tweeter.

dave

I mean 2500HZ-4000HZ. I'm trying to match it to an Adire Audio AV-8 in a 4 way speaker project. The AV-8 gets crazy above 2500HZ and my soft dome tweeter wont reproduce that low. If I were not this far in I would go in a different direction. I'm over budget as it is. I guess what I am saying is I'm stuck, please help!


:bawling:
 
That's less than an octave working range. Finding a driver is not too difficult. But to get decent integration with the other drivers over such a narrow band is going to be really difficult in my experience.

You will have to be really careful to get each overlap working, it will all interact in an area where your ear is incredibly sensitive to phase issues.

You can't make it a three way? It would just be really hard then :D
 
simon dart said:
That's less than an octave working range. Finding a driver is not too difficult. But to get decent integration with the other drivers over such a narrow band is going to be really difficult in my experience.

You will have to be really careful to get each overlap working, it will all interact in an area where your ear is incredibly sensitive to phase issues.

You can't make it a three way? It would just be really hard then :D


Was that a vailed sexual reference??



:bigeyes:
 
planet10 said:


Actually i'd XO them lower. I won't put an XO in anywhere between 400 & 5k if i can help it. And usually i prefer a bit lower (and higher) and active on the bottom.

dave

Alright guys it's time to school me! There is a 15" woofer @8 Ohms nom resistance in the box with 2.5 cubic feet air space (sealed) and 2.5 Lb. Pollyfill, low passed @ 100Hz. An Adire Audio AV8 @ 8 Ohms nom resistance with 1.5 cubic feet air space (sealed) and 1.5 Lb. Pollyfill, no crossover. A hole in the box where some crapy 3.5" Pyle (Early 90's) closed back midranges were (now in the garbage).
And a 1" soft dome tweeter @ 6 Ohms nom resitance (I can't even begin to remember the brand!).

If I am going three way, which reasonably priced (under $40 each) tweeter am I going to have to buy, then what freq's do I place the band pass for the 8? What value inductor and capicitor do I use for a simple 6db first order band pass for the AV8?


:bawling:
 
LR 2 Linkwitz riley 2nd order

Woofer is 180 degrees off from the tweeter so you switch the polarity of the tweeter
or if you have speaker at home try this on one of the speaker reverse the wiring and listen to how it sounds
with crossover points you want them to be as far apart as possible at least 3 octave 8 x the first frequency 200hz 1600hz
250 2000 300 2400 the further apart the better but the limits of the strengths of each speakers will figure into it
 
AV8 Specs here: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/OldAdireDrivers.pdf

FR graph here: http://ldsg.snippets.org/graphics/adire/AV8full.jpg

looking at the peak above 2KHz, I'm thinking the easiest solution might be what you proposed in the first post... if you can find a driver that has a flat response up to an octave above where your tweeter cuts in. Sensitivity isn't so much of an issue, you can pad the 'upper mid' driver like a tweeter, but if you're going to use the existing crossover, you need to get resulting (actual) impedance to match the drivers that are being replaced....

P.S. - 'easiest' dosn't ncessarily mean 'best' :D
 
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