Switchable 4 / 8 ohm speakers

Brett · 25th April 2009, 06:42 PM

I came across this tonight, and wonder if I have missed something.

2. Loudspeaker Impedance Switch - If you are just running one pair of loudspeakers from your amplifier, switch the loudspeaker to 4 ohms, which will make the loudspeakers run more efficiently, and provide a bigger sound from your amplifier. If you are running more than 1 pair of speakers from the one amplifier, or are running a home theatre set-up, quite often the main speakers need to be 8 ohms, so as not to draw too much current from the amplifier. If this is the case (check your amplifier instruction manual), switch to 8 ohms on your Polymorphic Loudspeakers. This will provide a much easier load for your amplifier to drive, and helps avoid low impedance problems with your amplifier.

Drive unit details 2 x Gen2 6inch Woofers, 1 x Gen2 25mm soft dome, Aluminium coil HF unit

I can see how you could achieve the Z switch with series resistors or a transformer, but The advantage of the Poly Morphic system is that while correcting these acoustic issues NO ADDITIONAL ELEMENTS are inserted into the signal path thus preserving as much as possible the original signals coherency. We call this MET. Minimal Element Topology.

I smell BS, but it's early and I'm tired.

J.R.Freeman · 26th April 2009, 08:26 AM

Hmm, do you think the switch might be putting the midbasses in either series or parallel configuration? The tweeter impedance would be left untouched, but the bulk of the amplifier load wouldn't be HF.

Brett · 26th April 2009, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by J.R.Freeman
Hmm, do you think the switch might be putting the midbasses in either series or parallel configuration? The tweeter impedance would be left untouched, but the bulk of the amplifier load wouldn't be HF.

Still can't do 8 and 4 with the same drivers, and even if it were doing that, the xover would not work in both configs, nor would it make the speaker a different nominal impedance.

J.R.Freeman · 26th April 2009, 11:32 PM

Woops, good point. I was tired!

I guess if they were both 4 ohm drivers, they'd be 8 in series and 2 in parallel.

That's a strange one. I can't see how this could be done without an additional component. Do you suppose one midbass is disabled in '8 ohm mode'?

25th April 2009, 06:42 PM	#1
Brett diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002	Switchable 4 / 8 ohm speakers I came across this tonight, and wonder if I have missed something. 2. Loudspeaker Impedance Switch - If you are just running one pair of loudspeakers from your amplifier, switch the loudspeaker to 4 ohms, which will make the loudspeakers run more efficiently, and provide a bigger sound from your amplifier. If you are running more than 1 pair of speakers from the one amplifier, or are running a home theatre set-up, quite often the main speakers need to be 8 ohms, so as not to draw too much current from the amplifier. If this is the case (check your amplifier instruction manual), switch to 8 ohms on your Polymorphic Loudspeakers. This will provide a much easier load for your amplifier to drive, and helps avoid low impedance problems with your amplifier. Drive unit details 2 x Gen2 6inch Woofers, 1 x Gen2 25mm soft dome, Aluminium coil HF unit I can see how you could achieve the Z switch with series resistors or a transformer, but The advantage of the Poly Morphic system is that while correcting these acoustic issues NO ADDITIONAL ELEMENTS are inserted into the signal path thus preserving as much as possible the original signals coherency. We call this MET. Minimal Element Topology. I smell BS, but it's early and I'm tired.

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26th April 2009, 08:26 AM	#2
J.R.Freeman diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008	Hmm, do you think the switch might be putting the midbasses in either series or parallel configuration? The tweeter impedance would be left untouched, but the bulk of the amplifier load wouldn't be HF.

26th April 2009, 11:32 PM	#4
J.R.Freeman diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008	Woops, good point. I was tired! I guess if they were both 4 ohm drivers, they'd be 8 in series and 2 in parallel. That's a strange one. I can't see how this could be done without an additional component. Do you suppose one midbass is disabled in '8 ohm mode'?