Hi All,
I am going to stain some light colored veneer (red oak) with a dark stain (Minwax Bombay Mahogany 1 Step). I was wondering if anyone could tell me approximately how many coats it might take to get the wood very dark, like an espresso-type dark, if it's possible? If not I retain the option of starting over with a darker veneer.
Anything I should do between coats? Minwax says to use 000 or finer steel wool, but I've done that on some tables I'm working on and it seemed to do nothing at all - I was thinking 600-grit or finer sand paper, which I'm told to use between coats of clear topcoat.
Thanks much.
I am going to stain some light colored veneer (red oak) with a dark stain (Minwax Bombay Mahogany 1 Step). I was wondering if anyone could tell me approximately how many coats it might take to get the wood very dark, like an espresso-type dark, if it's possible? If not I retain the option of starting over with a darker veneer.
Anything I should do between coats? Minwax says to use 000 or finer steel wool, but I've done that on some tables I'm working on and it seemed to do nothing at all - I was thinking 600-grit or finer sand paper, which I'm told to use between coats of clear topcoat.
Thanks much.
It depends- I would guess you're looking at five or six coats. What I do is plan for six coats, use regular very fine wood sandpaper after the first coat, then work your way through 600, then 800, and finish with steel wool.
I believe that One-Step has the polyurethane built in, in which case you'll want to do thin coats so it doesn't build up anywhere. The trick to finishing is lots of thin coats, with lots of sanding in between.
I believe that One-Step has the polyurethane built in, in which case you'll want to do thin coats so it doesn't build up anywhere. The trick to finishing is lots of thin coats, with lots of sanding in between.
Gadzooks, what a lot of work!
Oak is an open-pored wood that accepts oil-based pigment stains like the Minwax rather badly. Blotches guaranteed unless you use a pre-stain conditioner but then it won't get very dark.
Get to a Rockler or Woodcraft and buy DYE Stain liquid or powder in the color you want. Wipe on, wipe off. SAnd with 220 Garnet paper. Topcoat.
Oak is an open-pored wood that accepts oil-based pigment stains like the Minwax rather badly. Blotches guaranteed unless you use a pre-stain conditioner but then it won't get very dark.
Get to a Rockler or Woodcraft and buy DYE Stain liquid or powder in the color you want. Wipe on, wipe off. SAnd with 220 Garnet paper. Topcoat.
I agree with Bill- the Minwax is actually a colored finish, not a stain and will take a lot of buildup to get the dark color you are looking for. (You are probably looking for the color that you see on Mission/Craftsman/Morris furniture, which is actually produced by using ammonia in a 'tent' but that's another story...)
Use stain, which is controllable by adding more or wiping off with solvent. When the color is right, topcoat.
Cheers
John
Use stain, which is controllable by adding more or wiping off with solvent. When the color is right, topcoat.
Cheers
John
Hi Bill,
There's a Rockler in San Diego and I've been there several times; I've seen the DYE stuff but thought maybe it was a concentrate that needed to be reduced or something.
It certainly sounds like a great alternative, so I'll go talk to them. I'm staining a very large coffee table in addition to my speakers and the less work the better - I've gotten very frustrated with some other veneer projects I've tried - yes too much time and work and I want to get these done.
One question - I've already put the first coat of stain on the tables - can DYE be put over it or should I start over with new veneer, or sand & dye, etc?
There's a Rockler in San Diego and I've been there several times; I've seen the DYE stuff but thought maybe it was a concentrate that needed to be reduced or something.
It certainly sounds like a great alternative, so I'll go talk to them. I'm staining a very large coffee table in addition to my speakers and the less work the better - I've gotten very frustrated with some other veneer projects I've tried - yes too much time and work and I want to get these done.
One question - I've already put the first coat of stain on the tables - can DYE be put over it or should I start over with new veneer, or sand & dye, etc?
Lee - thanks - I'll look for the magazine when I go to Rockler!
VG - thanks too - looks like I'm just using the wrong stuff in the first place - I haven't been using REAL stain/dye. So I'm just going to start the project fresh. At least I haven't put any veneer/finish on the speakers yet - I'll do some test spots on the veneer first so I know what I'm doing before I start gluing it down.
VG - thanks too - looks like I'm just using the wrong stuff in the first place - I haven't been using REAL stain/dye. So I'm just going to start the project fresh. At least I haven't put any veneer/finish on the speakers yet - I'll do some test spots on the veneer first so I know what I'm doing before I start gluing it down.
I thought I'd mention that the 1-step stain/poly mixtures have a tendency to obscure the grain, since they sit on top of it. On the other hand, penetrating stains have the tendency to accentuate the grain, especially for absorbent woods like oak.
If you want to have an end product that highlights as much of the wood grain as possible, I'd recommend starting with a couple applications of penetrating stain followed by enough coats of the 1-step to get to the level of color you're after.
If, on the other hand, you want a even color that downplays the oak grain, I'd recommend going straight to multiple coats of the 1-step, or perhaps starting with a coat of sealer followed by the multiple coats of 1-step.
If you want to have an end product that highlights as much of the wood grain as possible, I'd recommend starting with a couple applications of penetrating stain followed by enough coats of the 1-step to get to the level of color you're after.
If, on the other hand, you want a even color that downplays the oak grain, I'd recommend going straight to multiple coats of the 1-step, or perhaps starting with a coat of sealer followed by the multiple coats of 1-step.
I'm most familiar with TransTint which comes as a liquid you mix with water or alcohol. Alcohol won't raise the grain but water is more forgiving for us dilettantes. Apply it with a plant spray bottle for even coverage.
Asking lots of questions of the guys at the shop is good advice to get good advice.
Asking lots of questions of the guys at the shop is good advice to get good advice.
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