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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

My open baffle dipole with Beyma TPL-150
My open baffle dipole with Beyma TPL-150
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Old 10th April 2009, 06:41 PM   #11
StigErik is offline StigErik  Norway
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Sure, here it is. Not as flat as 10$ domes though, will need some EQ. The peak at 1.5 kHz might be a bit alarming, but I cross at 1.5 kHz without any obvious problems.

I've used the Neo3 in quite a few designs. I like it, but it cant match the sound quality of a good AMT like Mundorf or Beyma.
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Old 10th April 2009, 11:29 PM   #12
studiotech is offline studiotech  United States
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On my design, we initially used the Neo3 and Neo8 just experimenting, and they do sound great when used within their volume limits. We needed quite a bit more volume and better dynamics, so the TPL-150 was the way to go. I meant to try them dipole before the studio monitors were finished, but never got around to it.

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Old 11th April 2009, 07:36 AM   #13
pixelpusher is offline pixelpusher  United States
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Thanks StigErik, The BG Neo3 had the opposite problem. It needed some propping up in the 2k area. I put it in a shallow waveguide which helped a bit. It sounds very good but I'd like to try the Beyma.
Glad I happened upon this thread. I wasn't aware of this one.

Greg, you are a Beyma dealer?
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Old 11th April 2009, 07:36 AM   #14
ExtremeDIYer is offline ExtremeDIYer  Canada
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Default Removal of TPL-150 rear cover

StigErik, I have a pair of the Beyma TPL-150 and I would like to remove the rear cover and give them a try as dipoles.

Could you tell me a little about your experience with removing the back covers of yours?

I obviously absolve anyone here of any responsibility if I accidentally murder one of my TPL-150's...

Thanks in advance.

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Old 11th April 2009, 08:23 AM   #15
StigErik is offline StigErik  Norway
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Removing the rear cover is safe and easy. Just remove the four screws, and lift the cover off. To fully modify the driver to become dipole, you will have to cut away the read damper pad as well. This is not very tricky either. Use a sharp knife to cut between the pad and the magnet. Be aware that the magnets are very strong.

Whatever you do, make sure you don't loose any magnetic things like screws into the driver, as these will destroy the driver! The older TPL150 did not have a wire mesh grille in front, the latter ones do have this for protection. On the rear side there is no grille, so if you take off the rear damper, you might consider installing a wire mesh grille here as well.

Below is a picture of the driver with the rear cover removed.
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Old 11th April 2009, 12:51 PM   #16
cuibono is offline cuibono  United States
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If you decide to rebuild the cabinets, you might try putting the mid off center of the baffle - this helps smooth the dipole response a bit. Have you played with Tolvan's Edge software? http://www.tolvan.com/edge/help.htm Its good for predicting these sorts of things.

BTW, it looks good. I wish I could hear them!

Would you post some off axis FR curves sometime? I'm currently doing an OB design, and am particularly interested in this.


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Old 11th April 2009, 05:05 PM   #17
mige0 is offline mige0  Austria
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I'm working on (and listening to) an OB with AMT for some time now and would like to backup StigEric's experience that an AMT used in dipole configuration sounds very very good (well, its been partly his recommendation I was following - after all).

Regarding FR I found that small OB's even for an AMT design are much more to my taste than wide ones - though you might give up on some max SPL - which should be of no concern with the Beyma anyway.

Below the polar diagram of an older status of my project with a roughly 30cm wide OB my latest version OB should look even better, but I don't find time to measure

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Crossover to the Jantzen is roughly 2.5kHz PC XO.

Please don't care about the irregularities below 1kHz as they are measuring artefacts.
In the lower plot on axis FR is set to be linear to focus on directivity only.

StigEric, good luck and hope to hear even more as the project develops...

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Old 11th April 2009, 05:26 PM   #18
Overkill Audio is offline Overkill Audio  United Kingdom
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Default Ahead of the curve

Hi StigErik,

I would just like to say congratulations on your TPL project(s), you are ahead of the curve big time with this driver, especially when used in Open Baffle.
I am a lifetime speaker builder addict and for the last 10 years have had a huge amount of fun (and frustration!) with the Manger driver, which in my opinion has been king of the hill as far as any single driver goes.
But the Beyma TPL on the scene the competition is now blazing hot!
I have just thrown to together a hardboard and MDF VPL open baffle for the TPL (back & damper removed) and the fantastic Volt BM251.4 (the 10 inch Pro midrange one) and the bass is the Beyma 15 inch SM115 K in a VPL open baffle.
I use a battery powered DEQX crossover with six channels of ESS DAC's instead of the DEQX internal DAC's.
I reckon I need 6 months to play around with the TPL to really do it justice.
Once again full respect to your goodself for being the first to bring this driver to the DIY market.

All the best

" This is not the end, not even the beginning of the end, but it is the end of the beginning "
Sir Winston Churchill 1943
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Old 11th April 2009, 07:28 PM   #19
StigErik is offline StigErik  Norway
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Hi Derek
Glad you liked the TPL too! It really shines open-backed.

This dipole is not my first speaker using the TPL. I made a 2-1/2 way with two Beyma 12P1000nd and passive XO, 98 dB sensitivity. It was magic driven by an Audio Note 300B amp... but not as good as this dipole is already in its very early stage of development.

Currently I'm without a high-end DAC, using a RME Fireface 800 now. Its not bad, but not the last word in resolution. In a couple of week I hopefully will receive a DAD AX-24.

Love your speakers by the way, have heard one of them in Bergen last year. Great stuff.
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Old 11th April 2009, 08:32 PM   #20
jeroen_d is offline jeroen_d  Netherlands
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Very nice project! Only problem I would have is the mid and tweeter being positioned rather low, I suspect that the centre of the mid is at about 27"?
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