Suggest me a cheap floorstander. 2-2.5Way

[raypalmer]

I need to keep my hands busy. Can anyone suggest to me a VERY cheap floorstander? I'd like to spend 100-150 on drivers total. (I'm working through a SimpleSE and an Aikido right now as well and they're eating up a lot of the discretionary funds).

[VictoriaGuy]

Ray-
You could always build a smaller box with a 'fake' bottom section- fill with kitty litter or whatever.
The Madisound 'Recession Buster' is cheap but I don't know anything about the box design or how it sounds.
PartsExpress has a floorstander driver deal (Recession Destroyer?) that might need some bass help as it's advertised as a MTM.

Neat set of projects- I'll be watching!

Cheers
John

[nukaidee]

check out this one at zaph audio. they're plans are solid. I'm not sure how much would these drivers cost at your area. but this seems like a decent choice and tube friendly. (if you want to use your simple se or akido with it)
http://www.zaphaudio.com/Waveguidetmm.html

[VictoriaGuy]

OP suggested $100-150 on drivers- the drivers for that Zaph project would be close to $400 + shipping?
I was checking out the Zaph designs a few days ago, and found that most except the very smallest bookshelf units were fairly expensive by my standards. It's tough when you have to pay for quality!

Cheers
John

[sreten]

RB kit : grab it while you can ......

Hi,



Something that look like the above, around 14L / 0.5cuft
tuned to near 44Hz would work well placed close to a wall.

The port does not need to be on the front.

/sreten.

[raypalmer]

Okay well I've gone and been impulsive.


I've taken some drivers I had laying about from a pretty miserably BR floorstander I made a year ago and have begun constructing what I'd call my "WAG 1.0." You can probably guess what wag stands for...

Reason for guessing:

It will be fun.


So the drivers are:

Peerless 830657 Woofer

and

a silk dome peerless tweeter whose model number I can't find.


Essentially I've got a floorstanding cab right now, but with the back off and no bracing yet. I'll attach the schematics of what's there. What direction should I take these in? Sealed? TL? BR? Ideas?


(remember I have not attached the rear panels yet)

[PeteMcK]

BR tuned to ~45Hz looks good for your 24.8L cabs,
Unibox gives an optimum size of 46L @ 42Hz for a bit more bass

[VictoriaGuy]

Ray-
First: I know next-to-nothing about speaker design.
That said, I had a quick look at the Peerless curves.
It looks like you will be asking the tweeter to do a lot of the 'heavy lifting' in the mid-freq range.
Perhaps you should think about adding a mid to 'fill in' a bit?
Then the XO gets a bit more complicated.

Or even use a full-range of some kind (FE127?) to handle the mids and top and use the Peerless woofer to fill in the bass? (Fonkenwoof idea). You could divide your floorstander cab to provide a separate box for the woofer, and a smaller, bookshelf-sized top for the mid/Fr/tweet/whatever.
Just quick thoughts.

You've probably already found the thread on 'Low end support for single driver monitors' which might have some useful ideas for you.

Cheers
John

[Cal Weldon]

Originally posted by raypalmer
Reason for guessing:

It will be fun.

I will take a Wild Ass Guess that it stands for

Wants Another Goodie

[VictoriaGuy]

Ray-
BTW, if you are handy with a router and have some thinner (1/4?) ply around it is not too difficult to 'fill in' the existing holes in the baffle.

Another possibility is to rout out the existing baffle and put a new one on, using the remains of the original as 'cleat'.

So you need not be constrained by the layout of your previous baffle.


Cheers
John