I was pretty set on making a MTM 2 way set of mains untill i talked to my dad. He really suggest on a budget to build a 3 way. He says I would get more out of it. I was thinking about doing a dome tweeter (SEAS 27TDFC) and a 6.5in mid I am stuck between the SEAS P18RNX/P and SEAS ER18RNX. He was also saying that a 5in for mid might be better considering they are faster and can be more accurate, considering I will not need it to go very low. For the lower mid and bass I am stuck between the SEAS P21RF/P which are on sale right now for 59.00 and the Dayton RS225S-8 which are both 8in. I am not sure if a 10in might be better for handling the lower end of the mid range and bass. I was thinking 10in right away but thought 8in to make a better looking floor standing speaker. I will be getting a sub woofer for handling the real low stuff. I thought I would run it by you guys to see what you thought. If you guys can think of better drivers please let me know. I am looking to keep driver cost down to 400 though.
Hi Mike
First off this is a general comment as I am no expert, opinions yes expert ones NO!
If you are going to use a sub-woofer or 2 for the low frequencies then
using 8inch mid bass would be OK. Otherwise I would have said 2 * 10inch woofers.
There is a general rule of thumb that says something like an 8inch mid-bass needs a mid-range drivers about half the diametre of the mid-bass, so a five inch would be probably better.
Beginners information and you probably already know it.
I tend to use the mid-range as wide as possible, using the telephone bandwidth as a guideline, so XO around 300 -> 3000 Hz although there are people who would say that the sound becomes more open and spacious as the XO frequency for the tweeter is lowered.
#3-ways are hard!
Tinitus is right in saying that a proven design is more likely to give you a reliable result, less fun though less frustrating too.
I can't comment on the drivers you query, I'm not familiar with them.
Regards
Ted
First off this is a general comment as I am no expert, opinions yes expert ones NO!
If you are going to use a sub-woofer or 2 for the low frequencies then
using 8inch mid bass would be OK. Otherwise I would have said 2 * 10inch woofers.
There is a general rule of thumb that says something like an 8inch mid-bass needs a mid-range drivers about half the diametre of the mid-bass, so a five inch would be probably better.
Beginners information and you probably already know it.
I tend to use the mid-range as wide as possible, using the telephone bandwidth as a guideline, so XO around 300 -> 3000 Hz although there are people who would say that the sound becomes more open and spacious as the XO frequency for the tweeter is lowered.
#3-ways are hard!
Tinitus is right in saying that a proven design is more likely to give you a reliable result, less fun though less frustrating too.
I can't comment on the drivers you query, I'm not familiar with them.
Regards
Ted
You may wish to consider getting a good full range and deciding later if you need a helper woofer and helper tweeter. This will make the XO a lot easier. The tweeter can be run with only a small cap and perhaps a bit of padding (optional) and the woofer should have it's own plate amp so will already have the XO. It's an obvious choice for those not as versed in the building of XO's. It's also rather popular. I will be doing the same when I update my system.
Look at the SB Acoustics 10"(Danish design) http://sbacoustics.com/. In a 55L vented box tuned to 23 Hz it will get you an F3 around 26 Hz. Madisound sells it for $151.
JohnZ
JohnZ
I think i have decided to go with a proven design. At first I was gong to go with ZAPH ZDT 3.5 design but I think I am going to build these i found. http://www.geocities.com/cc00541/MiniStatements_2.html they are called mini statements. I think they will do good, I still plan on adding a subwoofer to them later. I was going to see if you guys could take a look at my space and see if these would fair well in my HT room. My space in 13 X 16 with a divider in the middle, without the divider the room is 13X30. Here are some pictures of my space. As you can see in my pictures I have to toe my speakers in because of the size of my screen and my sitting area. They don't have to be corner loaded and can come out some but not too much.
My front
http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1581c.jpg
Back
http://img15.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1582j.jpg
My front
http://img13.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1581c.jpg
Back
http://img15.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img1582j.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/cc00541/Statements_Monitor_3.html
On last page they talk about the later Monitor maybe being even better
Considering you will use a sub
Unfortunately we cant get the 4ohm Dayton in EU, at least I havent seen it anywhere, only the 8ohm
You may not know this site, but mostly not budget designs
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
On last page they talk about the later Monitor maybe being even better
Considering you will use a sub
Unfortunately we cant get the 4ohm Dayton in EU, at least I havent seen it anywhere, only the 8ohm
You may not know this site, but mostly not budget designs
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
loudspeakers in particular are a very personal thing, with a whole ton of objective measurements/requirements that most sane/educated/informed subject matter experts seem to agree on....
before I even try to steer you in any direction, let me know what types of commercial "loudspear sound" rock your boat....
but please don't say that you want it as transparent & detailed as an ESL63 but with all the gonadz of a rock concert level PA & your budget is $400
most on axis measurements are useless, you need detailed polar plots in both the horizontal & vertical plains & thus realistic comparisons of existing commercial/diy designs that you see on the net disappear in a puff of smoke
also steady state measuremnts don't desribe transient behaviour etc. then you start looking @ waterfall plots & resolution is a problem etc etc
If you're game, some of the pro gear like the Behringer digital X/O offer amazing value & capabilities - but you need to know how to measure & set things-up & then you'll also need plenty of decent amps.....
agghhh I wish it was simpler ;-)
before I even try to steer you in any direction, let me know what types of commercial "loudspear sound" rock your boat....
but please don't say that you want it as transparent & detailed as an ESL63 but with all the gonadz of a rock concert level PA & your budget is $400
most on axis measurements are useless, you need detailed polar plots in both the horizontal & vertical plains & thus realistic comparisons of existing commercial/diy designs that you see on the net disappear in a puff of smoke
also steady state measuremnts don't desribe transient behaviour etc. then you start looking @ waterfall plots & resolution is a problem etc etc
If you're game, some of the pro gear like the Behringer digital X/O offer amazing value & capabilities - but you need to know how to measure & set things-up & then you'll also need plenty of decent amps.....
agghhh I wish it was simpler ;-)
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