External cross-over and wires

[SashaV]

Guys, if you place cross-over externally, how do you get wires from the cross-over to the drivers inside the cabinet and keep the cabinet sealed?
Is there something similar to speaker terminals plate that can be purchased for this purpose, or do you actually use speaker terminals plate for this?

 

[ashok]

You can use normal speaker connectors for this. If you want a cheap and dirty but effective way , you can drill holes just enough to fit the wires you will use and seal the gaps around the wire with silicone sealant . It makes a good seal but easily removable if the need arises.
The most flexible and tweak friendly method is to use a set of connectors ( + / - terminals ) for each driver you have.

 

[Cal Weldon]

If it's a two way, many terminals are set up for bi-amping and you can use them minus the jumpers. Like this here from PE.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-304

 

[SashaV]

The problem is it is 3 way, does anyone know where 3 way speaker terminals can be purchased?

 

[Drew Eckhardt]

The problem is it is 3 way, does anyone know where 3 way speaker terminals can be purchased?

Neutrik sells 8-pole Speakons good for up to 4-ways, and various vendors sell 13 and 14 gauge 8-conductor cable which will get there.

 

[454Casull]

Four binding posts?

 

[BlueWizard]

Well, reasonably you could use two separate terminal plates/cups. Use a double for the midrange/tweeter and a single for the woofer -

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-304

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-303

Or consider this -

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-313

Which gives you FOUR terminal connections.


But also consider the wisdom of using standard speaker terminal connectors. If you 100% absolute are in control of the speakers and the external crossovers, then there is no chance of anyone hooking them up directly to the amps, which would probably be disastrous.

But, if there is even a remote chance that some one will connect the speakers directly to the amps, bypassing the crossovers, then you want to use a type of connector that prevents this.

In this case, I would go with a 'Speakon' connector between the crossover and the speaker box to prevent anyone from accidentally connecting the speaker directly to the amp, minus the crossovers.

If you think this can't happen, then all I can say is, never underestimate the stupidity of your friends.

Here are a couple of sample images of 'Speakon' connectors. These were specifically designed for professional audio applications where touring music groups needed a solid reliable speaker connector.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-054

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-190

These come in 2, 3, 4 wire, and other versions.

It is probably easiest to use standard terminal type speaker connectors, but it is safer to use something like the 'Speakon' connectors.

Steve/bluewizard

 

[HK26147]

You can also buy these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...=terminals long&CFID=7597266&CFTOKEN=73080284
to go through thick panels:

 

[nukaidee]

going on with this problem, couldn't you have a common "ground post" then have 3-4 "live posts"? that would reduce a 3 way system from 6 posts to only 4.

 

[SashaV]

Thank you guys, you gave me quite a few ideas, those Neutrik Speakon connectors look attractive, as well as those Dayton BPT-38G Binding Post from Parts Express, I did not realize these could be used directly through MDF with no need for plate.

I have to decide between these two, and deciding factor will be quality of signal transmission.
Which one of these two would cause less signal degradation?
I would think a solidly screwed wire or spade on binding post would be better than Speakon?

 

[SashaV]

going on with this problem, couldn't you have a common "ground post" then have 3-4 "live posts"? that would reduce a 3 way system from 6 posts to only 4.

Yes, but I am anal, it does not look like it should have been done that way, if you know what I mean.

 

[Drew Eckhardt]

I would think a solidly screwed wire or spade on binding post would be better than Speakon? [/B]

Not enough to matter.

Speakons are rated for a .003 Ohm contact resistance at the end of their 5000 connect/disconnect life cycle.

The Speakons get you a single connector. Which locks using no tools. Which is keyed so incorrect installation is impossible. Which (for an 8-pole Speakon even when using pro-sound amps with 2 or 4 pole Speakons) is nothing like the connectors on your amplifiers.

I've installed Speakons on my Orions so I don't have to deal with four separate cables when I move things around.

 

[Duck-Twacy]

I use the Speakon STX range (which are a bit more sturdy)

http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/210_1161301771/NLT4MP-BAG_detail.aspx

Together with the rubber gasket for better sealing

http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/210_1951798740/SCNLT_detail.aspx

Don't have a picture of the back though...

 

[HK26147]

I my case I ran each a separate ground for each driver:
Because at first I used external passive crossovers, but I eventually went to fully active, so having complete separate circuits was necessary for the separate amps.

For Pro Use - which requires frequent connection cycles in less than optimum conditions, is polarized and locks I use Speakons.
For home I used the long binding posts, as they rarely gets disconnected.
As an alternative common barrier strips are cheap and rated ( 10A - 20A )