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| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Toronto
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Guys, if you place cross-over externally, how do you get wires from the cross-over to the drivers inside the cabinet and keep the cabinet sealed?
Is there something similar to speaker terminals plate that can be purchased for this purpose, or do you actually use speaker terminals plate for this? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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You can use normal speaker connectors for this. If you want a cheap and dirty but effective way , you can drill holes just enough to fit the wires you will use and seal the gaps around the wire with silicone sealant . It makes a good seal but easily removable if the need arises.
The most flexible and tweak friendly method is to use a set of connectors ( + / - terminals ) for each driver you have.
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#3 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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If it's a two way, many terminals are set up for bi-amping and you can use them minus the jumpers. Like this here from PE.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-304 |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Toronto
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The problem is it is 3 way, does anyone know where 3 way speaker terminals can be purchased?
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Menlo Park, CA
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Four binding posts?
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Well, reasonably you could use two separate terminal plates/cups. Use a double for the midrange/tweeter and a single for the woofer -
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-304 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-303 Or consider this - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-313 Which gives you FOUR terminal connections. But also consider the wisdom of using standard speaker terminal connectors. If you 100% absolute are in control of the speakers and the external crossovers, then there is no chance of anyone hooking them up directly to the amps, which would probably be disastrous. But, if there is even a remote chance that some one will connect the speakers directly to the amps, bypassing the crossovers, then you want to use a type of connector that prevents this. In this case, I would go with a 'Speakon' connector between the crossover and the speaker box to prevent anyone from accidentally connecting the speaker directly to the amp, minus the crossovers. If you think this can't happen, then all I can say is, never underestimate the stupidity of your friends. Here are a couple of sample images of 'Speakon' connectors. These were specifically designed for professional audio applications where touring music groups needed a solid reliable speaker connector. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=092-054 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=092-190 These come in 2, 3, 4 wire, and other versions. It is probably easiest to use standard terminal type speaker connectors, but it is safer to use something like the 'Speakon' connectors. Steve/bluewizard |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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You can also buy these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=73080284 to go through thick panels: |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
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going on with this problem, couldn't you have a common "ground post" then have 3-4 "live posts"? that would reduce a 3 way system from 6 posts to only 4.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Toronto
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Thank you guys, you gave me quite a few ideas, those Neutrik Speakon connectors look attractive, as well as those Dayton BPT-38G Binding Post from Parts Express, I did not realize these could be used directly through MDF with no need for plate.
I have to decide between these two, and deciding factor will be quality of signal transmission. Which one of these two would cause less signal degradation? I would think a solidly screwed wire or spade on binding post would be better than Speakon? |
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