Decent DIY speakers on the Cheap

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coldcathode

coldcathode

Member
Joined 2009
I know, I know,

There have probably been thousands of posts like this on the forum and I should "search". I also know I will get a thousand different opinions when I ask the following questions. I just hope that the replies take into consideration the parameters I lay out.

#1) I have spent the past 3 years experimenting with Tube amplification.

#2) My current speakers are Yamaha NS-A636's, I got them for FREE so I did not "Invest" into a set of drivers with questionable performance.

#3) Since I listen to a wide variety of music and I am dealing with relatively low power amps (3-4Watts average) (9-12Watts tops) I would like some better sensitivity than the 86-88db the Yamaha's have.

#4) I have an EXTREMELY limited budget due to the fact that I am currently out of work. I have LOTS of time and skill to build a set of cabinets, xovers etc.

So here are the questions:

a: Can anyone recommend some "budget minded" drivers?
I am looking to build a pair with maybe 6 1/2" woofer and some sort of horn tweeter. (suggestions wanted here)

b: I would like them to play pretty flat down to maybe 80-100hz (I can fill in with subs from there since I have a few Subs and plate amps laying around)

c: Cabinet size is no problem I will build what is needed and no limit on the volume (within reason, LOL)

d: I can "bi-amp" or build passive crossovers. I am kind of leaning towards "bi-amping" since it will let me "show off" two stereo tube amps instead of one.

e: I would like sensitivity in the 92db+ range.

Am I asking too much for a $200 budget? (drivers and tweets only) I have plenty of cabinet materials around.
 
J

jrn77478

Member
Joined 2008
a: Can anyone recommend some "budget minded" drivers?
I am looking to build a pair with maybe 6 1/2" woofer and some sort of horn tweeter. (suggestions wanted here)

b: I would like them to play pretty flat down to maybe 80-100hz (I can fill in with subs from there since I have a few Subs and plate amps laying around)

c: Cabinet size is no problem I will build what is needed and no limit on the volume (within reason, LOL)

d: I can "bi-amp" or build passive crossovers. I am kind of leaning towards "bi-amping" since it will let me "show off" two stereo tube amps instead of one.

e: I would like sensitivity in the 92db+ range.

Am I asking too much for a $200 budget? (drivers and tweets only) I have plenty of cabinet materials around. [/B]
Click to expand...

The budget forces a few compromises, but only a few.

sqlkev's suggestion of the Econo Wave is a good one (very good), with regard to your desire for high efficiency, but unless you have a set of woofers, of at least 92db efficiency, lying about, it will be tough to get in under $200. The horns, drivers, and crossover components will chew up well over half of your budget. It's doable, but you'll be padding down the driver to match your smaller/cheaper/less efficient woofers. That's not necessarily bad, just a compromise in that your entire system won't be as efficient as it could be with a woofer better matched to the compression drivers' efficiency.

Since you already have the components for subs, you might want to think more along these lines...
http://www.bottlehead.com/loosep/S.E.Xy speakers.html
The Fostex full-range drivers are stunning, and their are many, many solid designs that will get the most out of them. Build your own cabinets and you're well under your $200 budget for the pair.

A pair of Fonken's mated with a pair of subs to fill in the bottom would be a killer match for your tube gear.

Oh, wait... you did say that cabinet size was not an issue, didn't you? :D
Have a look here...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=110703
 
planet10

planet10

frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
planet10-hifi.com
Paid Member
One of the many Fostex FE126e projects (if you have lots of speaker building material -- plywood i hope -- and no size limit i'd look to Saburo or Mikasa). Drivers about $100. Get one of Ed Lafontaine's EnABL kits and the other stuff you need to mod the drivers (they are available all done up but that would blow your budget). If you really want to add a horn, a single cap to bring it in at ~15k would do.

These were made to be used with tube amps... i use the less efficient FE127eN, my main amps are 4W

dave
 
W

WithTarragon

Member
Joined 2007
Since cost seems to be a major consideration. I would honestly suggest not going the DIY route. Rather find yourself some decent speakers in a cosmetically challenged cabinet.

Since deep bass is not a problem, perhaps a Klipsch Heresy cabinet (or the industrial version that has a number I can't remember). It goes well with tubes and they made a million of them.

The only way you will get at your price range is if the cabinet is beat up. Later, you can re-fresh the crossover caps. With the power levels you mentioned. I would seriously not get anything with less than 92 dB/watt (or so)
 
planet10

planet10

frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
planet10-hifi.com
Paid Member
WithTarragon said:
Since cost seems to be a major consideration. I would honestly suggest not going the DIY route. Rather find yourself some decent speakers in a cosmetically challenged cabinet.
Click to expand...

I can't agree with that at all. Going that route is really only needed if you are on a REALLY tight budget. Like $20-40. And then you have to get lucky, and you usually end up with an OB.

There are lots of really good speakers you can build for $200. If you want efficiency, most of them are single driver.

I've had Heresys and i wasn't at all enamoured of them...they don't hold a candle to a pair of Saburo... i did get $400 for the drivers in them (and burned the boxes)

dave
 
gainphile

gainphile

Member
Joined 2007
gainphile.blogspot.com
If in the USA, Linkwitz Pluto must be one of the highest-value speakers around.

http://linkwitzlab.com/Pluto/photos.htm

- Designed by SL himself
- $700 including 4-channel amps!
- Even the plans/circuits are available freely, even more cheaper with own PCB.

as for the looks/WAF, its only limited to one's imagination/wallet :D

DSC-42.jpg
 
coldcathode

coldcathode

Member
Joined 2009
All excellent info, Thanks.

What I am really driving at "pun intended" is assuming I am going a more conventional route

MDF Enclosure
6 1/2" woofer
Some sort of horn tweeter.

Can anyone offer a proven set of woofer/tweeter that work well together at about 5 watts RMS?

I am building an all tube active crossover so Bi-Amping is where I would like to be.

The $200 range is for the 4 raw drivers.

And yes I actually do have some sub woofers that I planned to do in Bandpass or tuned port enclosures left over from my car audio days.

The plutos look cool, I assume the vertical firing woofer is done that way for a reason? The "tube" is ported at the bottom?
 
coldcathode

coldcathode

Member
Joined 2009
Man the "funky" look of the Pluto design has got me all revved up!

I have been toying with the idea of a "steampunk" themed "man cave".

If I could come up with some brass tubing and some cast iron pipe I think I could make a really nice setup using the Pluto plans.

I think this might just be the ticket! Certainly would be a nice conversation piece. I am assuming that the overall internal volume of the "pipe" enclosure is the key so a small variation in diameter could be made up in the length.
 
gainphile

gainphile

Member
Joined 2007
gainphile.blogspot.com
coldcathode said:
Man the "funky" look of the Pluto design has got me all revved up!

I have been toying with the idea of a "steampunk" themed "man cave".

If I could come up with some brass tubing and some cast iron pipe I think I could make a really nice setup using the Pluto plans.

I think this might just be the ticket! Certainly would be a nice conversation piece. I am assuming that the overall internal volume of the "pipe" enclosure is the key so a small variation in diameter could be made up in the length.
Click to expand...

Using metal have some inherent problems.. like ringing. Have a read at the pluto forum where the builder needed some kind of damping material (tar?), and he is using alumunium. I'm sure Iron will ring more. Not sure about brass.

Have a read carefully in regards to pluto design. The goal is 1) to make it omnidirectional and thus the pipe width and cutoff frequency, 2) cancel back-reflection and thus the pipe length. It is a sealed design, no ports.

One information which is not available on the page is stuffing. It is available in the discussions though. Basically 100gr of acoustastuff starting from 12" from the pipe opening. I can't get that stuff easily here so just use normal stuffing of 50gr.


dzzmiller said:
Design an extra tube and add one of these.....

http://scientificsonline.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_3052118
Click to expand...

Ha..ha.. that is the most extraordinary hifi idea I have heard in a long time :D

Imaging playing Tchaikovsky Telarc.. and then BOOM cannon sound and smoke coming out of the speakers :cool:
 
Andersonix

Andersonix

Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Years ago I considered re-boxing the drivers used in some of the Infinity models that had high efficiency (low to mids 90s dB/W). I don't remember the models now, but they have a distinctive gray foam-looking dome tweeter (polycell?), and I see them from time to time in thrift stores and pawn shops for cheap. Although I have never heard them myself, I have read reports that they're not so great.

Another idea is using cheap drivers wired in series-parallel in multiples of four to gain efficiency. There are several apparently useful and cheap (under $25) Vifa and Silver Flute drivers from Madisound, for example (and others at Parts Express). Likethis $13 Chinese Vifa looks ready for stacking four in a row in a sealed cabinet.
 
T

TRADERXFAN

Member
Joined 2008
coldcathode said:
I know, I know,

There have probably been thousands of posts like this on the forum and I should "search". I also know I will get a thousand different opinions when I ask the following questions. I just hope that the replies take into consideration the parameters I lay out.

#1) I have spent the past 3 years experimenting with Tube amplification.

#2) My current speakers are Yamaha NS-A636's, I got them for FREE so I did not "Invest" into a set of drivers with questionable performance.

#3) Since I listen to a wide variety of music and I am dealing with relatively low power amps (3-4Watts average) (9-12Watts tops) I would like some better sensitivity than the 86-88db the Yamaha's have.

#4) I have an EXTREMELY limited budget due to the fact that I am currently out of work. I have LOTS of time and skill to build a set of cabinets, xovers etc.

So here are the questions:

a: Can anyone recommend some "budget minded" drivers?
I am looking to build a pair with maybe 6 1/2" woofer and some sort of horn tweeter. (suggestions wanted here)

b: I would like them to play pretty flat down to maybe 80-100hz (I can fill in with subs from there since I have a few Subs and plate amps laying around)

c: Cabinet size is no problem I will build what is needed and no limit on the volume (within reason, LOL)

d: I can "bi-amp" or build passive crossovers. I am kind of leaning towards "bi-amping" since it will let me "show off" two stereo tube amps instead of one.

e: I would like sensitivity in the 92db+ range.

Am I asking too much for a $200 budget? (drivers and tweets only) I have plenty of cabinet materials around.
Click to expand...


I suggest Hawthorne Iris coaxial as ob... its high sensitivity and there is a used pair for 185 right now. should do the trick...
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=65304.0
 
planet10

planet10

frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
planet10-hifi.com
Paid Member
Don Bunce said:
I would recommend the Fostex FF-165K drivers($67 ea) in the BK-16 back loaded horn. Instead of the T190 tweeter,use the less expensive FT-17H tweeter($38 ea).
Click to expand...

I'm not convinced that the BK-16 is as good as some of the more modern designs. The FF165k would go into almost anything the FE166 fits into... Austin A166, Hiro. You could also just use FE166 (then you probably wouldn't need tweeters -- but phase plugs would be good ideas)

dave
 
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