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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Hi diy,
I have a pair of Realistic Minimus-7 speakers that I like a lot. They are black with a mesh front. Unfortunately, one of them "died" and I would like to try and fix it. The problem is that no sound comes out, or full sound comes out intermittently. Wiggling the speaker wires can sometimes bring the sound back. I am not an audiophile, but I am pretty good at fixing computers and computer-related things. If it's just a short in the speaker connection, I might be able to fix it. The problem is I can't figure out how to get the case open. There are 4 threaded holes in the back and no fasteners in the front. Does the mesh pop off? Also, does Radio Shack still repair these? Thanks, Zaffer |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Sounds like a loose connection.
Yes, the wire mesh comes off with a little care. You then unscrew the woofer and pull it out |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Irondale, AL
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While you're in there, change those caps! Better yet outboard the xover and rebuild completely. Ypu can get everything @ Parts Express and choose your budget level. Just put xovers in box and hardwire umbilical to speaker.
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Been there, Heard that, Forgot what I was listening to! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Zaff-
Yes U can. I have 6 1/2 pairs of whites, blacks, and silvers. Both the original 7's, and the magnetically shielded Pro7-AVs. Love 'em all. I saw on eBay a while back a new crossover kit for both the 7's and 77's. Supposedly had better capacitors, and the 6dB/octave roll-off (hi-pass only) is beefed up to 12dB/octave for both lo-, and hi-pass. Have not heard any reviews yet. If you are of the mind to do so, you might consider replacing all the wires in the cabinets with thicker wire, as the 'Shack used the cheapest material in spite of it being an excellent design, and sounding pretty good. I guess the years of working at the 'shack really paid off! ![]() Seriously though, since they have not sold them for at least the last five years, they almost certanily do not support them anymore. Hope this helps! Steve
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Thanks for all the good suggestions. I got the mesh off and the woofer out and all the connections looked good inside. The part where the trouble seemed to be (speaker wire connector) was a sealed box -- way beyond me. As a matter of fact, when I realized you had to know how to solder to actually fix anything in there, I realized I was in over my head.
So I put it all back together and trimmed the speaker wires -- guess what? Seems to be working now. Thanks. Zaffer |
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#6 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I bought my first pair of mimimus 7 a year ago, sound was papery, over excited and bright, and I mean bright, I ended up buying another cheap pair just after, sounded the same obviously.
Bought the crossover mod from e-bay, main benefit is that the woofer is not running open wide any more, big improvement, but still bright, confirmed by measurements, about 3dB too bright. Made an L-pad fro the tweeter to knock them down 3dB, now this is when they really start showing what they can do, huge difference for the better, now starting to sound like something really special, and I mean special. Put thin felt round the tweeter, covering the plate, then a thin felt rim round the tweeter also, as per the ls3/5a, but only about 1/16" thick. Coated the woofer with 2 coats of elmers glue and added a small amount of wadding to the inside. They are on 21" target stands, about 5" from the rear wall. Seems like a lot of work, but they are something else. I have been using ls3/5a for years, and they make a very appealing alternative, huge soundstage, and enough bottom end so you dont feel short changed, they punch way above their weight, well worth the effort. Just my 2c. |
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#8 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Mini-7-
Thanks for a great post! I had seen these x-over kits on eBay and wondered is they were ever worth it. After your comments, I am inclined to perhaps pick up a set & Try them out. BYW, what kind of Elmer's did you use? (There are so many different ones). I am sure there are lots of Mini-7 owners out there that might appreciate your comments. This gives me a killer idea: Do an actively crossed-over pair of '7's, using my chip-amp of choice: the LM4765T Overture Amp, possibly inside the case. If no-can-do, then perhaps in a project box suited to the '7's decor, affixed to the under-side of the speaker's enclosure. I did this about 20 years ago with my original pair of '7's, using the then-ubitiquous chip-amp, NEC's mPC1230H2. Sounded good, but times have changed, and it may be time for a serious upgrade. Sounds like the '4765T might just fit the bill.... Steve
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Hi,
Im in Victoria too, nearer Sidney, small world, Mark. |
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