Woodworking techniques - Page 4

homebuilder · 10th March 2009, 11:34 PM

Gedlee:

While you are at it, ask a talented local woodworker to make a recommendation on a good blade. There are many types of teeth, and they differ in their set.

I had a similar issue a few years ago, and my cabinet making buddy got me a high quality blade that just eliminated the problem. We were working with quartersawn white oak, so I can't say if that will make a difference or not..

It certainly will not hurt to replace your bearings either.

Good luck.

s7horton · 11th March 2009, 01:19 AM

My favorite is the Forrest Woodworker II. It's the only one on my saw. (Delta Unisaw) Unless of course the Forrest stacked Dado head is on there.

Renron · 11th March 2009, 03:59 AM

Use a thin-kerf blade and only raise the blade higher than the top of the wood by the height of the teeth. It will keep the blade running cooler which decreases heat warp / wobble which looks and acts like bad bearings. An overheated blade that has cooled down will tend to rewarp next time it heats up when cutting.
Don't rush the cuts, use good sharp blades and ear protection.
I agree with S7horton, Forrest makes great blades, Freud too.
Ron

GraemeC · 11th March 2009, 07:07 AM

Collectively you have some good advice.

BEARINGS. Wriggle the blade; if it moves the bearings are suspect so replace them. They (99%) are a generic product so just remove the old ones, take them to the local bearing center and ask for a set like this.

BLADE ALIGNMENT. The fence should be aligned to the blade or 1/64 slayed away from the leading edge. (0.5mm to the Europeans). The alignment marks on the sawbench are not necessarily accurate.

BLADE TEETH. For fine work you need a saw blade with lots of teeth - preferably 60, or even 80 teeth - course blades wth 20 to 40 teeth are for quick rough cutting.

Persevere, basic cabinet making is not rocket science.

Good Luck

Graeme

10th March 2009, 11:34 PM	#31
homebuilder diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008	Table saw Gedlee: While you are at it, ask a talented local woodworker to make a recommendation on a good blade. There are many types of teeth, and they differ in their set. I had a similar issue a few years ago, and my cabinet making buddy got me a high quality blade that just eliminated the problem. We were working with quartersawn white oak, so I can't say if that will make a difference or not.. It certainly will not hurt to replace your bearings either. Good luck.

11th March 2009, 03:59 AM	#33
Renron diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Sacramento	Opinions of a professional termite Use a thin-kerf blade and only raise the blade higher than the top of the wood by the height of the teeth. It will keep the blade running cooler which decreases heat warp / wobble which looks and acts like bad bearings. An overheated blade that has cooled down will tend to rewarp next time it heats up when cutting. Don't rush the cuts, use good sharp blades and ear protection. I agree with S7horton, Forrest makes great blades, Freud too. Ron __________________ "If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3 "I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Looking for someone to do a bit of custom woodworking	Glowbug	Swap Meet	0	4th May 2006 11:17 PM
Woodworking questions	Vikash	Multi-Way	13	23rd January 2006 08:55 PM
need help and info on woodworking	lemans23	Multi-Way	13	20th August 2005 10:41 PM
Woodworking Help!	Xyberz	Multi-Way	41	12th September 2002 03:02 PM
woodworking question--please help	Yoda	Multi-Way	7	23rd April 2002 05:29 PM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

11th March 2009, 01:19 AM	#32
s7horton diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	My favorite is the Forrest Woodworker II. It's the only one on my saw. (Delta Unisaw) Unless of course the Forrest stacked Dado head is on there.

11th March 2009, 07:07 AM	#34
GraemeC diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	Collectively you have some good advice. BEARINGS. Wriggle the blade; if it moves the bearings are suspect so replace them. They (99%) are a generic product so just remove the old ones, take them to the local bearing center and ask for a set like this. BLADE ALIGNMENT. The fence should be aligned to the blade or 1/64 slayed away from the leading edge. (0.5mm to the Europeans). The alignment marks on the sawbench are not necessarily accurate. BLADE TEETH. For fine work you need a saw blade with lots of teeth - preferably 60, or even 80 teeth - course blades wth 20 to 40 teeth are for quick rough cutting. Persevere, basic cabinet making is not rocket science. Good Luck Graeme

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)