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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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I am interested in making some Studio monitors with a flat (or as close as) Frequency response.
I am using a HiVI B4N bass-midrange speaker, and a HiVi RT2H-A Isodynamic Tweeter as my choice. Calculting the Crossover doesn't seem to be too difficult, but calculting the box is, and the amount of information out there is confusing. Does anyone have any advice on a good starting point? Also, off topic, who knows of a program which will calculate Crossovers, and boxes? Cheers. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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http://www.rjbaudio.com/Audiofiles/FRDtools.html
http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spk...esigningXO.htm http://www.zaphaudio.com/ http://www.rjbaudio.com/projects.html http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spkrbldg/ http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Lou...r_Projects.htm http://htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=39 http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/ Hi, Speaker design is not as simple as you seem to think it is. Driver choice is also complex, see Zaphs tests. |
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#3 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Boxes are easy if you know what you like to begin with.
Crossovers are not something you go to a book or table to design. Those are basic starting points only. If you haven't done it, best to consider what Sreten is suggesting. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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Getting started in Crossover Design
The basics (You've got to understand the rules before you can break them :-) http://sound.westhost.com/lr-passive.htm choosing xover point: http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...xpointmain.htm Baffle Step Compensation: http://sound.westhost.com/bafflestep.htm Getting it done: Jay has a page on designing xovers using manufacturers specs without measuring: http://www.geocities.com/woove99/Spk...esigningXO.htm Calculators: http://ccs.exl.info/calc_cr.html#second http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-Lpad.htm box calculator: http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro Measurement freeware: Synrta - http://libinst.com/SynRTA.htm ARTA http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/download.htm ARTA Jig - http://zobsky.blogspot.com/2008/01/s...t-jig-for.html
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Herne
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I dont want to give technical information, as the above is alot. Instead i would like to give a pragmatic advice. If you want speakers and are not in it for the process of designing and building them, use one of the posted zaph (or the other) designs - maybe even if you would like to design your own speakers, its great to have a reference to compare to. Speaker design is more complicated than one would think in the first weeks and months of this hobby. Chances are, that the zaph designs are alot better than anything you would be able to achieve in your first few attempts.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Thanks guys, that should get me started.
The box part is difficult for me, because I find that it throws a lot of what I know out the window (I've trained in electronics and worked as a live sound tech for several years). That data that I have available is a lot more advanced than what I have ever seen (Qms, Qts, Qes? No idea what any of this thing means, used to working in SPL's, RMS, Peak, dB, impedance, you know, the basics!). It's a start! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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My tips
Basta! Loudspeaker simulator http://www.tolvan.com/basta/ Sirp Loudspeaker analyzer http://www.tolvan.com/sirp/ Very good tutorials and documentation on the homepages LspCAD: http://www.ijdata.com/products.html |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Does anyone actually have an opinion on the two Hivi speakers I mentioned?
(And please, no hard core Audiophiles). |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
You seem to have got the cost of the drivers the wrong way round. Using a tweeter that is as big as 6.5" driver with a 4" bass driver is bizzare, the B4N http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/297-429g.pdf is problematic just above 1kHz, with a Vas of just 3L it is too small for a cabinet that would suit the RT2H-A, bass is somewhat limited. FWIW I would never use such a tweeter for a monitor, its dispersion is not typical at all, and that makes it pointless for a quality monitor. http://www.rjbaudio.com/Microbe%20SE/microbe%20SE.html ? |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chicagoland
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Quote:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...hlight=buggles It's a typical metal-cone driver, in that it has a lot of harsh cone breakup that must be notched out in some way or the speaker will sound incredibly sibilant and irritating to listen to. Not a driver I'd recommend for a beginning designer. Some sort of poly cone with a very flat FR. I haven't use that tweeter, but it's pretty highly regarded. HOwever, your planned design is a very strange match-up. Something like one of HiVi's little dome tweeters would make more sense, especially for budget reasons. With most *small* 2-ways, the woofer is able to cross pretty high (3-4 KHz) without problems, and this leaves lots of options for tweeters. Not to be cliche, but I highly recommend building a proven design your first time around, if possible. This will guarantee the highest satisfaction with the end product. |
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