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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Berlin
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Hey everyone,
I'd like to get some feedback on a speaker repair problem. Not only the 'how to apply a reconing kit' way, but really in a DIY fashion. I found this topic to be underrepresented in DIY discussions. People quickly seem to recommend either regular materials/glues - or an original reconing kit. I'd like to get the best of both worlds. In order to save yourself from the boring, unimportant details: simply skip the block between the dashed lines. --------- I recently aquired a used Beyma 12P1000Nd in apparently good condition. But the pole vent protection grille had gone loose (I really guess someone must have poked a finger inside the vent) and the motor caught some dirt in it's air gap. So the voice coil was rubbing audibly. Everything else seemed okay, though. I went the crazy route and dissolved all the glue on dust cap, surround and spider using acetone. I managed to loosen the dustcap using a blade, carefully prying into the joint between cap and cone. I also managed to carefully lift the surround and spider tissue from the metal frame using a plastic spatula. Everything came off fine. I inspected the coil and really found light scratch marks that seem to match the rubbing pattern I used to recognize. Additionally, the air gap really contains some dirt that can be removed, i.e. using adhesive tape wrapped over paper or a plastic strip. So the speaker can be recovered! Phew, I thought, until I realized that - while my disassembly went well - I am completely unprepared for the reassembly! This is a professional grade sound reinforcement speaker. It is intended to dissipate short of a kilowatt long term. I found high quality components and manufacturing quality inside. I don't want to skimp on glue now - and ruin the speaker the first time I fire it up. So I did some research - and found nothing conclusive. My best bet is that the connection between dust cap and cone used to be cyanoacrylate with a vinyl like coating on top, and that the joint between tissue and frame was a special polyurethane glue. ---------- So the question is: what easily available supplies will serve my need to recone my speaker using it's original cone? What glue is available to the individual? I explicitly want to avoid the special speaker glue (white/transparent liquid in anonymous plastic bottles with custom brand labels) that some stores sell. It's not the stuff that was used by the OEM - and it's an obscure, overpriced ripoff. My best bet at the moment: to use car body glue/sealant. Tough, but flexible, easily available and reasonably priced. If higher strength is advised, I could simply go for the car window glue variant, but I'd like to avoid anything complicated unless it's really neccessary. What's everybody thinking? Cheers, Sebastian. |
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