Hi All,
I'm using the FOUNTEK JP3.0 Tweeter and Peerless 832873 Woofer, just wondering how you would recommend routing for these two speakers?
Specifically the Peerless as its an odd shape
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/img/Data/HQ/hds-134nomex.gif
http://www.gmsound.dk/JP3.0R-Front.jpg
I'm using the FOUNTEK JP3.0 Tweeter and Peerless 832873 Woofer, just wondering how you would recommend routing for these two speakers?
Specifically the Peerless as its an odd shape
http://www.bmm-electronics.com/img/Data/HQ/hds-134nomex.gif
http://www.gmsound.dk/JP3.0R-Front.jpg
I did this with my fountek a while ago but had to struggle to remember but I think it goes like this...
Lay the driver face down on a piece of wood and screw it down if possible. Trace the outline with the edge of your router and 1/4" cutting bit. Make sure you keep the router tight against the driver so the resulting cutout is to scale. This is the most critical step.
You'll end up with a blown up version of your hole. This is template 1.
Take template 1 and lay it over a second piece of wood and run the edge of the router around the inside of the cutout. Now you have a hole that is closer to the size of your driver but oversized by the width of your router bit. This is template 2.
Assuming you used a 1/4" bit, the resulting cutout will be 1/2" wider in each dimension. You'll need a 3/4" O.D. collar that screws into the base of your router and surrounds your bit.
Now use template 2 and run the collar around the inside of the hole with the cutting bit set at the desired depth.
I would cut the hole in the baffle before using the template to cut the rebate. For cutting round driver holes, I like the Jasper jig.
Lay the driver face down on a piece of wood and screw it down if possible. Trace the outline with the edge of your router and 1/4" cutting bit. Make sure you keep the router tight against the driver so the resulting cutout is to scale. This is the most critical step.
You'll end up with a blown up version of your hole. This is template 1.
Take template 1 and lay it over a second piece of wood and run the edge of the router around the inside of the cutout. Now you have a hole that is closer to the size of your driver but oversized by the width of your router bit. This is template 2.
Assuming you used a 1/4" bit, the resulting cutout will be 1/2" wider in each dimension. You'll need a 3/4" O.D. collar that screws into the base of your router and surrounds your bit.
Now use template 2 and run the collar around the inside of the hole with the cutting bit set at the desired depth.
I would cut the hole in the baffle before using the template to cut the rebate. For cutting round driver holes, I like the Jasper jig.
For truncated frame drivers I
1. Lay driver face down
2. Trace with sharp utility knife
3. Free hand with router
4. Clean up edges with utility knife and chisel
With a bit of patience they come out pretty well.
For small round drivers I use an adjustable circle cutter (like this ) on a cordless drill at slow speed and then proceed from step 3.
You just have to do some test fits on scrap wood to adjust the size before you commit to your final box. You can get some pretty tight fits, and I think it is easier than using a circle cutting jig.
On a side note hex wrenches serve as pretty good depth gauges for setting the router bit
1. Lay driver face down
2. Trace with sharp utility knife
3. Free hand with router
4. Clean up edges with utility knife and chisel
With a bit of patience they come out pretty well.
For small round drivers I use an adjustable circle cutter (like this ) on a cordless drill at slow speed and then proceed from step 3.
You just have to do some test fits on scrap wood to adjust the size before you commit to your final box. You can get some pretty tight fits, and I think it is easier than using a circle cutting jig.
On a side note hex wrenches serve as pretty good depth gauges for setting the router bit
Member
Joined 2003
Mostly laziness, yes.soundengine355 said:
There is not much benefit to be had from flush mounting a woofer, so if you don't have to do it, why bother unless the sole benefit is looks. However, even when looks are considered, depending on the frame of the woofer some may actually look better when they are not countersunk into the baffle.
In fact, without countersinking the woofer the acoustic centers of the drivers are closer together (for a standard two way as shown above), and may work to the designer's advantage.
ultrachrome said:
This is the method I use. Here is a description with pictures to make it more clear.
http://www.exquisiteaudio.com/baffle.html
This is my preferred method for odd shaped drivers, it's straightforward and produces very good results.
Simply measure from the outside edge of the router bit to the outside edge of the template guide, and let's just assume this is 1/8". Now find a washer, (or anything round with a hole in the middle), that measures 1/8" from the inside edge to the outside edge. Put the driver onto the template material, put the washer up to the driver frame, put your pencil in the washer hole and roll in around the driver. Once cut, the template will produce exactly the correct cut-out for the driver. Use a washer that is a tiny bit wider, rather than smaller, so that the cut-out isn't a too tight.
Steve
Simply measure from the outside edge of the router bit to the outside edge of the template guide, and let's just assume this is 1/8". Now find a washer, (or anything round with a hole in the middle), that measures 1/8" from the inside edge to the outside edge. Put the driver onto the template material, put the washer up to the driver frame, put your pencil in the washer hole and roll in around the driver. Once cut, the template will produce exactly the correct cut-out for the driver. Use a washer that is a tiny bit wider, rather than smaller, so that the cut-out isn't a too tight.
Steve
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